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Lima/Cusco/Machu Picchu

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Husband and I will be on 1 week tour of this area in April. Am only going with tour for convenience and don't want to eat with group. Please recommend the best chifa restaurant and any high end restaurant in Lima mainly serving fish/seafood. I know about Astrid y Gaston. Where are the trendy bars ? Also any suggestions in Cusco would be appreciated.

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  1. Greetings, I've been trying to answer your question for days but my response gets deleted because, I think, I have been putting links to our blogsite which has our restaurant reviews for Lima. Links for self-promotion are not permitted by Chow. Sorry. Fortunately, all of our Lima restaurant reviews are also posted on Chow: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/401476 Our favorite restaurants in Lima are Rodrigo and Rafael. For seafood go for lunch to Le Mar (another Astrid & Gaston creation). For a chifa, look at our reviews; there was only one that we thought was very good. So, hopefully this response will remain posted and you will have the benefit of all of our World Class Lima Dining Experiences. aledm

    4 Replies
    1. re: aledm

      Thanks for your response/suggestions--can't access your blog. Seems as if we can now go without tour so chifa name would be great to know.

      1. re: aledm

        Hi, I can't understand why the link to the Chow thread (shown above) of "our lima perú restaurant reviews" isn't working. But I did a search on the South American Board on "our lima peru restaurant reviews" and that thread came up. So you can check all of the restaurants and the chifas we ate at (I hope). In any event our favorite chifa was: Chifa Salon Capon, Jr. Pururo 819, Lima fono: 426-9286 in Barrio Chino.Enjoy

        1. re: aledm

          The period at the end of the URL was causing it to not work, but we've removed that so it should work now.

        2. re: aledm

          Thanks for your comprehensive blog. It really helped me in narrowing down where I would eat in Lima. This is what I planned as a first time visitor:

          Astrid y Gastón (de Astrid Gutsche y Gastón Acurio), Calle Cantuarias 175, Miraflores, fono 444-1496. www.astridygaston.com Our rating 9.5/10. It is difficult for a much-acclaimed restaurant to live up to expectations but A y G did. And it did when we returned for our second visit too. A y G has traditional ingredients (pejerrey, for instance) that are difficult to find and prepares them in innovative and delicious ways. We shared the pejerrey as an entrée, a sublime seafood soup and a three month old roasted baby pig. All excellent. We wanted to taste the picarones and were brought a one-third portion (and only charged for one-third). The prices are high for Perú but not for a world class restaurant. We wish A y G served "amuse bouche". (We did appreciate the "mignardise" served with coffee.
          Reservation Sat. night of arrival in Lima at 7:30

          Brujas de Cachiche, Restaurant Brujas de Cachiche, Bolognesi 460, Miraflores, fono: 447-1883: Our rating 8/10. We had a very good meal in the delightful setting. We were kind of put off by the waiter "angling" for a tip in addition to the cover and service charge that the restaurant imposes.
          Open Mon-Sun from noon to 12pm

          Possibly Sunday lunch or dinner

          Costanara 700 (de Humberto Sato Tomita), 700Costanera Av. El Ejército 421, Miraflores, fono 421-4635: Our rating 5/10. We were very disapointed with our meal and it is listed as the second best restaurant for food in "La Guia del buen comer". We had 2 mains (conchitas al miso was an uninspired liquid with scallops floating it it and machu picchu grill--totally uninteresting) with te verde. At 9 pm we were almost alone in the restaurant. Although Sr. Tomita was smoking at the bar, he never greeted us.

          Possibly Sunday lunch or dinner

          Huaca Pucllana, General Borgoño, cdra. 8, Huaca Pucllana, Miraflores, 445-4042, web: www.resthuacapucllana.com Our rating 8/10. We read all of the reviews and were careful ordering. We had a great meal with excellent service. The dramatic setting, the music and dancing, and the design and décor of the building created a perfect stage set for the meal. We shared Anticuchos de cordero (S/.24), Canilla de cordero (S.49), Mont Gras Colchagua Valley Chile Carmenere 2005 (S/.90), and a rice pudding (S/.22). Our bill was S/.217 and definitely worth it.
          Mon-Sat 12:30pm-midnight; Sun, 12:30pm-4pm

          Probably Monday dinner

          Jose Antonio, El Restaurant Criollo de Lima, Jr. Bernardo Montegudo No. 200, Urb Orrantia Lima, Lima, San Isidro, fono: 264-3284, web: www.joseantonio.com.pe: Our rating: 6/10. There was nothing special about this restaurant. We went for dinner at about 8pm (on a Monday) and the huge restaurant was practically empty (and stayed that way until we left). We had dishes that are legendary Peruvian dishes, such as Lomo Saltado—not tasty enough.
          Open Mon-Sun 12.30-4.30pm and 7.30pm-12.30am

          Possibly Sunday lunch or dinner

          Rafael (de Rafael Osterling Letts), Calle San Martín 300, Miraflores, fono 242-4149: Our rating: 9/10 the first time and 8/10 the second time. We had a great meal with wonderful service. The room is crowded, like a French bistro, but not objectionable. There were ashtrays on the tables and, when we asked for a non-smoking area, the waiters simply removed all of the ashtrays. We shared the fois gras asado (S/.48), the mero rostizado en jugo de tinta (S/.48), ravioles de mango (S/.23), and la chocolaterie (S/.24). The food we ordered was delicious “amuse bouche” was innovative too. The second time we went to this restaurant the service was not as good as it had been. The food was really good, however.
          Open Mon-Sat from noon to 4pm and 8pm to 1am

          Maybe on Saturday night before flying home.

          Rodrigo (de Rodrigo Conroy), Av. Francisco de Paula 231, Miraflores, fono 446-0985: Our rating: 9/10. This may well be our favorite restaurant in Lima. The room is modern and lovely in black and white. The service was excellent and the food was exceptionally good and creative. The “amuse bouche” was a fabulous assortment of 6 tastes. We shared a carpaccio langosta (S/.36), a mero bullabesa (S/.49) , had a bottle of Navarro Correa Sauvignon Blanc (Argentina) (S/.85) and for dessert, a bizcocho de almendras (S/.22). Rodrigo came to our table to greet us; something we like very much. The second time we went we had another great meal but not as good as the first time.
          Open Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-12am (the bar remains open after midnight)

          La Rosa Náutica
          Open Mon-Sat 12.30-00.30

          Located in a majestic setting -a fabulous and romantic Art Nouveau construction that stands at the end of a pier-, La Rosa Náutica is an unique dining experience. The almost 360º view of the ocean through the numerous big windows and the relaxing sound of waves breaking against the piles make you feel as if you were in the midst of the Pacific Ocean. Big colonial fans, crystal flower-shaped lamps, and hanging plants complete the 1920s-style atmosphere.

          Lunch Tuesday

        3. I've been researching where to eat in Lima myself for my trip in September. One place that sounds interesting is Chef Wong (aka Sankuay). Google it and you'll find directions and how to get there.

          1. I visited Peru last spring, and it was amazing. I actually got food poisoning in Lima, though I'm not entirely sure how (I didn't drink the water, but I did eat the fruit, and I had gelato), so I don't really have too many recommendations. I did go to La Rosa Nautica, which was brought up earlier. The view was interesting, and the food was best when the chef stuck to Peruvian specialties, rather than venture out into other world cuisines. For Cusco/Machu Picchu I definitely recommend trying "cuy" (Andean guinea pig). It's delicious, especially alongside a nice cold Cusquena beer.

            1. I used to live in Cusco and these were always the most popular spots friends who were visitors. I have been to them as well and found them to be quite good. In Cusco, try to stay away from the Plaza de Armas area for food. It is overly touristy and full of so so food. Up by the Hotel Augustin there are a lot of good choices, as well. Just because places look eh that does not mean they are not good.

              Fallen Angel-in the same plaza as the Hotel Monestario (I believe it is Plaza Nazarenas). Its mostly a steak restaurant (beef not alpaca) but is really good for unique peruvian flavors on a palate that you know a little better.

              El buen pastor--a bakery on the way up to Plaza San Blas. It is run by nuns for orphans. Good snack foods.

              A mi manera--I don't know if this place is still around, although I hope it is. I really liked the food and our waiter was great! 393 triunfo.

              Pachapapa--Plaza San Blas. Really good traditional Peruvian food. I recommend the aji de gallina.

              MAP cafe--next door to Fallen Angel. It is in the courtyard of a museum. VERY pricey compared to other choices, but very worth it too.

              Right of the plaza de armas is Santa Carolina which has a good gelato/ice cream place. Also on that street is la cueva de rafael I believe it is called. I went there with a big group of friends from the UK and it was not bad.

              As for Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes is not that great food wise. Last time I was there, I went to Chez Maggy for pizza. It was ok, not phenomenal.

              Personally, I am not a huge fan of chifa, although some places do it pretty well. If you stop in Urubamba, there is a decent chifa place right on the main street right up from the grifo (gas station). The hotel places along the highway are very tourist centered and have people try to sell you things while you are waiting to get back on the bus. Also, there are a couple of good places around the Plaza de Armas. On one corner is a good fancier restaurant, although the name is escaping me right now.

              Must try food items:
              Aji de gallina, mazamora (a dessert that is kind of like jello), chupe, ceviche (mostly in Lima), and please drink an Inca Kola for me.

              Good luck, have fun. Peru, esp Cusco, is my favorite place in the world basically.

              4 Replies
                1. re: gingerfoxgus

                  Greetings, thanks for the Cusco restaurant tips. Very good; we're planning to stay a month or more in Cusco and we're interested that you lived there for a while. Are there furnished apart-hotels (with all of the amenities) that you can recommend? Of course we can search the usual sites and use the normal resourses, so I'm interested in the hidden gem that only you might know about. Thanks.

                  1. re: aledm

                    Chowhound has a very narrow mission--where to find deliciousness. General travel planning questions, like where to stay or what else to do while visiting a town, are off topic for our boards. Please keep your replies focused on helping the poster find great chow, as off topic replies will be removed.

                    Thank you.

                2. Did y'all make it to the Chifa? My wife and I are going this week and we would like to give one a try. Any ordering suggestions?