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Feb 26, 2008 07:51 AM

Down a hidden staircase in Chinatown, Eisenhower-era American food

Walk along that crowded, bustling stretch of the Bowery -- between that old old house that George Washington likely stopped to admire and the Civil War era tunnel under Doyers -- and I'll give a thousand to one odds you'll never notice that tiny doorway at 16 Bowery. Through the door and down a narrow staircase, beyond a curtain and around a corner is a restaurant that looks like a Polish luncheonette on Ave B with trendy lighting and paint job. That's Win Luck Restaurant, and it serves American food to adventurous Chinese people with a yen for the exotic.

You can get Steak Diana, or lobster with baked cheese, or maybe some eggs over easy with bacon. If you have a sweet tooth, you can try waffles with ice cream and a chocolate shake. A trendily-dressed young lady at the next table picked at fried chicken. An older, not very trendy lady near me exclaimed in Chinese, "This is western food!" I opted for red wine baked ox tail. First came cream of chicken soup and garlic bread. And then the main event, a ramekin with the oxtail, potatoes and carrots bobbing in a thick gloppy sauce that looked like Campbell's soup. Alongside, new potatoes and a vegetable medley. It was the sort of TV dinner food you'd expect to see Mom dish out in an episode of "Leave It to Beaver" -- though I don't think that The Beav was a big fan of oxtail. Still, the veggies were fresh not canned, and the sauce, despite its appearance, was rich and flavorful, redolent of wine -- though a bit too sweet.

Not bad for eleven bucks. And, for Chinese patrons, the added pleasure of being able to say, yes I've tried American food, and our Chinese food is so much better!

Win Luck Restaurant
16 Bowery

Win Luck
16 Bowery, New York, NY 10013

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  1. Evil, evil restaurant. I was once dragged there by a Chinese friend who wanted to have some Americanized Chinese food. Here I was thinking I was going to have moo shoo pork and General Tso's chicken. It was processed food hell. I think we ordered pork chops covered with canned soup and a cornish hen.

    1. I'm curious if this place has been open for a long time or not. In a way it sounds like it might be Hong Kong cafe style food which has become ubiquitous in California in the past decade, but less common in New York. Typical dishes in this genre include ox tail with spaghetti (spaghetti is always offered as an alternative to rice) and baked sole in corn sauce. M Star Cafe on Division is the one place in Chinatown I can think of that fits this description.

      9 Replies
      1. re: Chandavkl

        This place has been open for a long time(owners have changed a few times i think) and the last time it tasted good was probably in the late 80's. It's overpriced and really blehhhhh now.

        1. re: Chandavkl

          Chandavkl - perhaps Kobma at 23 Pell comes close. Younger owners and younger crowds. Sort of a hip-Cantonese or hip California style Hongkong restaurant. For breakfast, perhaps Spam and Sausage Noodle Soup or Toast and Jam with Ham Macaroni Soup. Other dishes include Garlic and Ketchup Chicken Wings, Baked Ham and Cheese over Spaghetti or Squid with Sour Cabbage Chow Fun. And everybody's favorite: Salted Lemon 7-Up! I didn't think it would last when it opened but it is going strong after 2+ years.

          1. re: scoopG

            Ewww. This place sounds so gross, I may just have to try it!

            The lemonade I had in Singapore was always slightly salty. (I was not a fan.) Guess salted 7-up is along the same vein.

            Any idea whether it's kaya toast with jam or just regular ol' toast?

            1. re: cimui

              Not sure cimui! I've gotten their Chinese style dishes like Shredded Pork Pan Fried Noodles or Tomato and Egg on Rice. Lau, they do offer the Butter and Condensed Milk Toast though, as well as Peanut Butter and Condensed Milk Toast! Oh and plenty of sandwiches like "Corn Beef and Egg" and a Pork Chop one. And French Fries!

              1. re: scoopG

                oh im not sure if they have the toast with condensed milk (someone please tell me if they do)

                however, i think that place in the hallway on elizabeth might have it

                1. re: Lau

                  I have been to Kobma. Its menu is very similar to that of Egg Custard King Cafe on Mott Street, with all these Hong Kong bistro style dishes. I wasn't that impressed by the food, but I have a friend from Hong Kong that is a regular. He loves their baked pork chop rice with tomato sauce and their milk tea.

                  It does serve the toast with condensed milk, and it is the Hong Kong style (thin toasted white bread). Egg Custard King also serves it. I think ViVi on Bayard serves the Taiwanese version with thick toast.

                  As for the salty 7 up, it is very common in Hong Kong bistro / cafe. It is not adding salt to 7 up (so no need to be scared!). It is just 7-up with preserved lemon, similar to the Vietnamese salty lemonade with club soda replaced by 7 up. It is actually very good!

            2. re: scoopG

              I just noticed on the menu of a vietnamese restaurant in LA a listing for vietnamese salt lemon soda - do you suppose this could be it? they also had salt plum as a flavor. I didn't try it.

              1. re: gsw

                The Cantonese version uses preserved (salty) lemon with 7-up, whereas the Vietnamese version uses seltzer water (and possibly with sugar, I am not sure). Kobma offers that Cantonese version with 7-up.

            3. re: Chandavkl

              no its not the type of hk diner that exists in LA...this is kind of just a chinese take on american food. i remember eating stuff like this in asia when i was trying to find western usually not much of a fan of it as the conception of "american" food is generally just greasy and kind of weird

              the one thing i do like from that genre is the toast with condensed milk...oh and i like the pork chop rice at XO kitchen (has cheese and tomato baked over it, but its really good)

            4. Do love your review - not sure I quite want to try it - but love that you posted about it. Would you go back?

              1 Reply
              1. re: MMRuth

                Oh, I don't think I'll be going back... unless I watch one of those splashy Douglas Sirk movies from the 1950s and want to stay in the mood by eating the food that goes with it. But it was a fun experience so I'm not sorry I went. And the food wasn't disgusting or inedible (like Wo Hop); it just wasn't very good. Still, my old high school served worse.

              2. The original comment has been removed
                1. This has to be the best review for a restaurant I never want to visit I've ever read. :)

                  Love this line: <<And, for Chinese patrons, the added pleasure of being able to say, yes I've tried American food, and our Chinese food is so much better!>>

                  That's exactly what my mom always said when we went to Pizza Hut. I'm pretty sure the only reason why we ever went was to afford her the opportunity to gloat.

                  2 Replies
                  1. re: cimui

                    It really isn't "American food" or "Americanized chinese", it is, as Chandavkl mentions Hong Kong cafe style food. You go to these places for this specific kind of food. This just happens to be a place that makes awful food. A properly done rendition of the standard " fish baked in a cheese sauce over fried rice" is a very delicious thing. The chunks of fish are tender and covered in a cheese sauce that comes slightly browned, still bubbly, and somewhat stringy but not gloppy.

                    1. re: SomeRandomIdiot

                      I don't think anyone is really asserting that it is "real" American food (not any more than we could say that most takeout chow fun and lo mien places serve "real" Chinese). Rather, it sounds like Chinese-ized American to me. Don't think that's any different from what Chandavkl is saying.