Uncle Darrow's and Flossie's and the Love Theory of Southern Food

[Thi N.]

So I was writing up the first Chownews and all the stuff I was reading and summarizing about Uncle Darrow's was making me so goddamn hungry that I had to cut out of office hours early to go pick up a catfish po boy.

Venice Boulevard branch. Nicest lady *ever* behind the counter. "You ever been hear before honey? No? Would you like some samples?"

Red beans and rice - searing, deep. Jambalaya - strangely gentle. Great sausage. Catfish po boy - beautiful. In that pretty simple straightforward way - the catfish itself wasn't that great - not half as good as Flossie's catfish - but it was crispy and freshly fried, even though I'd come in at 3 PM, the only customer. And it had overall harmony - simple mayo sauce, simple lettuce, simple bread, but all of the appropriate contrasting temperatures and textures - catfish crunchy outside and soft inside, mayo creamy, lettuce crisp, bread also cruncy/soft, just right. And it had this incredible spiciness, the cornmeal batter, that I didn't even realize was part of the catfish until later.

The only place I know that's made me as *happy* is Flossie's, down in Torrance. This has been spoken of many times on this board.

Flossie's is more careful, more elegant, has a greater range of flavors and greater harmony. Uncle Darrow's is simpler, but has a little more of the freshness sparkle.

Flossie's and Uncle Darrow's are clearly the best I've had. I've been to Stevie's. I've been up and down the BBQ places - Tasty Q, Leo's, Phillipe's, Woody's. None of the BBQ places are as *happy* and *good* as Flossie's or Uncle Darrow's.

What is it that makes these places so damn good in that special way that justs makes people all smiles? And why is it that it's so clear to everybody that eats at a good southern place that there is love there, in the cooking, and that the love is an essential ingredient? I'm totally serious here. I leave Yongsusan, I think, "Damn, that was a very skilled chef, and I have had a sublime experience." I leave Flossie's - everybody I know leaves Flossie's - thinking, "Oh crap, there was a lot of love in that, and I'm so happy I could give my car to the next beggar on the street."

-thi

[Chris G.]

I'm a huge fan of Uncle Darrow's. For me, what makes their Po' Boys so authentic (and good) is the bread that they use. It's exactly like what I've had at Johnnie's in New Orleans. I've had Po' Boys where the bread is too chewy or too soft and spongelike, and it just doesn't taste right.The freshness of the ingredients at Uncle Darrow's helps a lot, as does the simplicity that you mentioned. You can really taste the catfish/shrimp/etc.

But that special thing you're alluding to is the Southern hospitality. The staff at both Uncle Darrow's locations are so friendly and warm you feel like you grew up with them. The owner of the Marina Del Rey Darrow's remembered my name by my second visit. And they're truly proud of what they serve--you can definitely taste the love in each bite. It's another factor that adds to the N'awlins authenticity.

I know exactly what you mean about the barbecue joints. I've grown accustomed to gruff service with a scowl that I get at barbecue places here in L.A. But then again, for me that's part of the authentic L.A. 'cue experience. I remember going to the long-gone Carl's BBQ and Dirty Rice and being forced to repeat every part of my order two or three times to the cashier, or being admonished at Norm Calvin's (also long-gone) for ordering potato salad ("It's Tater salad!") and cole slaw (It's Soul slaw!!).

[Thi N.]

See, I don't think it's just the hospitality. The hospitality definitely adds. But I think you'd get the same raw sense of love in the food even if they treated you like crap.

Cause of the five best places for southern love food I know - three had major sweet loving hospitality, but my favorite BBQ place ever (Interstate BBQ) was kind of gruff service, and then there was that place in Virginia where everybody stared at me and my dad like they hadn't seen an Asian in years and they were wondering if I belonged at a table or on the menu, or something. And the food was great all round. My feeling is, there's no BBQ place in LA that has the *balance* and harmony that, say, Darrow's or Flossie's or my favorite BBQ places elsewhere have, and that are the final step towards being loved food.

Whatever. I'm on crack.

-thi

[Mr Grub]

Dead on. The long-time cook (also counterman, chief maintenance officer, & head of security) at the Lighthouse does not speak. In fact at their old shack (literally) location, you weren't sure anyone back there actually understood your order until it appeared out the side door. Now located in a strip mall on Western just north of Washington Blvd, the Lighthouse ribs are still, IMHO, the succulent definitive version.

[kevin]

Is Lighthouse BBQ still around????

thanks.

[soccerdad]

address of Uncle Darrows?

[PRSMDave]

Lincoln Blvd. just north of Washington Blvd. on the east side of the road. Next to an Affordable Portables.

[Chris G.]

Both locations serve the same great food, yet the "decor" couldn't be more different. The Venice Blvd. location has a well-worn, down-home, outdoor shack/patio vibe, while the year-old location in Marina Del Rey has a spotless, slick sheen like you'd expect from a new Westside establishment.

[Thi N.]

There's a second branch on Venice, a few blocks west of La Brea.

-thi

[More of Everything...]

Another notable item at Uncle Darrow's is their gumbo. Its a chicken and soft shell crab gumbo. I believe they only make it on Friday's and possibly over the weekend as well.

[SKU]

At Uncle Darrow's, the thing that warms me up more than anything is that they butter the rolls on the po' boys. Here's something they just don't have to do, the sandwich would be good without the butter, and it's ridiculously unhealthy to butter your fried fish sandwich, but they do it and it adds something, not only a wonderful richness in flavor, but a sort of warmththat comes from knowing that they went the extra distance to make my day...that makes me feel happy to eat there.

[julia]

Thi,

Have I mentioned how bleeping brilliant I think you are? Your contributions leave me salivating, teary eyed, and smiling. So spot on. Thank you, thank you.

I think I need a po'boy (and a little bit o'love)...

[Thi N.]

Thank you so much - and thanks to all the people who have written in praise of my dawdling efforts on Chownews. This is a blatant schill. If you like me, subscribe to Chownews, and help keep this board alive. There are special rambling that I write just for Chownews.

You know, it's funny, a friend of mine - quite a good essayist - put me in a essay of hers. She wrote of me:

"Thi studies - and teaches - philosophy at UCLA, but mainly he writes food pornography."

This is funny for me, because it marks about the fourth time that somebody called me a food pornographer. All four completely unconnected.

I asked her why. She said, "Yeah, well, most food writing makes me hungry, yours makes me horny."

I don't know whether to be pleased or displeased.

-thi

Link: http://chowhound.safeshopper.com/23/c...

[julia]

SOLD! To the drooling lady! I am now offically a Chownews woman.

[Norm]

For you chowhounds who love a bargain -- in this week's "Pennysaver" (comes in my mail every week),
there is a "Buy One, Get One Free" coupon for Uncle Darrow's Marina Del Rey area location. Great excuse to have 2 Po'Boys!

This coupon is in the Marina area "Pennysaver" and probably not in "Pennysavers" in other areas of town.

BTW, I tried Uncle Darrow's Jambalaya and was not blown away. It was okay but it was not in the same ballpark as the jambalaya at Harold & Belle's.