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Feb 13, 2008 09:49 AM

Molecular gastrotomy: where to experience it?

After watching a nifty show on the topic, hubby wanted to go a restaurant that employs some of the techniques. What's Boston's equivalent to El Bulli, or WD-50?

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  1. Clio sometimes does versions.

    But IMO, the best place to experience it is in the year 2002.

    1 Reply
    1. re: Bostonbob3

      2002 is a *little* unfair, but I agree that Clio is pretty much the only place in town that even comes close.

      NYC is your best and closest bet.

    2. soon the trend will catch on in Boston. Clio falls pretty flat.

      1. Gargoyles on the Square's Jason Santos likes to play with molecular gastronomy. I've seen technique with sodium alginate/calcium ions, foams, and gelee there. He's not "all about that," but he likes to add an element to it, particularly to desserts.

        Otherwise, yeah, Clio.

        14 Replies
        1. re: enhF94

          I would say take a trip to Chicago. Thats where all the molecular gastronomy is really happenning. More advanced than NYC, except maybe wylie dufresne. Gargoyles is not a good example. Clio is better.

          1. re: admiralackbar

            Agreed, Gargoyle's is not a good example. I once ordered a foamed foie gras dish there (I believe he called it "foie gras cappucino") and it was awful, a complete waste of one of the most sublime foods on the planet.

            1. re: BobB

              Did Gargoyles' cappuccino monstrosity ever last on the menu, or was it just sort of a trial?

              1. re: Prav

                I never saw it again, but I don't go there that often.

                1. re: BobB

                  I had it. It was far and away the most disgusting thing I have ever tried. We go there quite often, and IIRC (since I usually order whatever foie gras prep is on the menu) it was there for a whole menu cycle. Blecchhhhh!!

                2. re: Prav

                  Had it, didn't like it. Also had high hopes for the "root beer gelee" with "Dr. Pepper sauce" on a foie prep he put together, but gelees tend to really minimize flavors, so it was well-nigh-to-tasteless. But he'll get better with time.

                  1. re: Prav

                    I think that also made a cameo in the last days of Dedo, and yeah, disaster.

                    It's funny because it ought to be: foie and espresso can go really well together.

                    1. re: sailormouth

                      Don't forget about the foie brulee that came inside a hollowed out egg shell - that (again IIRC) was another part of the same trio that included the capuccino. It was awful as well. One of Jason's 'flights of foie fantasy" that I really liked included flash fried olives and gold leaf with some grain - I am forgetting what - in a schmear - trying hard to remember - can see it, but am forgetting exactly what it was - along with bluebeery (I think) sauce.... that one was good....

                      1. re: Small Plates

                        I had a foie trio at Sandrine's in Harvard Square last summer and it included a brulee - served room temperature with the bruleed crust. It was delicious but so rich that just a couple of bites was more than enough. La Voile also serves a foie brulee, iirc.

                        1. re: heathermb

                          I have had the Sandrine's bruleed foie - which is delicious!! The Gargoyle's version is not as good. I really loved that Sandrine's one, BTW! Thanks for reminding me!! :)

                          1. re: Small Plates

                            I recall a brûléed foie gras pâté at T.W. Food that I thought was pretty much a failure: an already custardy pâté, a lot of added sweetness with the caramelized sugar crust, not enough acid counterweight provided by a few thin sliced of green apple. Not one of my favorites there.

                            1. re: MC Slim JB

                              I think they have a foie brulee at La Voile too, though I haven't tried it. I do remember the folks there (maybe the owners) being surprised that other local restaurants had such a thing when my friend told them that Sandrine's had a version on their menu.

                              1. re: lissy

                                i've had sandrines version on the "assiette gourmand" that was a trio of foie gras, honestly it was inedible to me. The foie gras base had very little f.g. flavor, and its texture was very fluffy, almost grainy.

                                1. re: that_reeks_ugly

                                  That's so interesting, it sounds so different from when I had it - the texture was incredibly richh, thick and creamy. The FG flavor was not super strong, but definitely there. I guess I got lucky the night I went!

            2. Pino Maffeo was doing a lot of this at Restaurant L..not sure if he carried over any of the dishes to Boston Public..but worth checking

              1 Reply
              1. re: 9lives

                boston public is way more mainstream. Most chefs that were doing more avant garde cuisine like maffeo gave it up because there is simply not a strong enough market for it.

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