New Pork City
- George Jan 28, 2008 06:33 PM
Did you read Jonathan Gold's column this week in the LA Weekly? "New Pork City."
Here it is:
I take it that one motivation for this column would not just be to make us salivate over here in LA, but to motivate some LA restaurants to bring us to the level of pork wonders that this column claims for New York.
So here is my question: Do we already have such wonders? Where and what are the pork wonders of LA restaurants. I had my first visit to Mozza Osteria over the weekend, and started with the crispy pork trotter. The whole meal was above outstanding, one of the best I've had in LA since moving here; but sorry, this crispy pig trotter won't do, not visavis my question here. It was delicious. But it was TINY. You don't want tiny trotter. Refined feet? The second I saw it arrive, I ordered another antipasto (the testa). Mario, don't believe the hype about skinny LA. Treat us like NY. Bring us pork wonders to Mozza...!
One pork wonder that I know: Angelini Osteria's porchetta, served one night per week I believe. This is a wonder.
I'm kind of in love with my Whole Food butcher's organic pork chops, which I salt and cure for a day or two before grilling. After the cure, I feel like they are as good as the massive farmhouse pork chops I have had in France. Pork wonders.
I have known pork wonders in Mexican food since arriving. Cochinita pibil (Yuca's is a favorite), chicharones (I remember a place in / near Pasadena), the al pastor at Tacos La Fonda in the Valley.
I'm wondering about Gold's mention of the pork shoulder in Koreatown here in this column. Where is the best version of that? What is it called?
I'm wondering about pork ears. Temptation of St. Anthony.
Pork wonders people. Bring them on.
I rather thought Gold was referring to bossam (after all, this was at Ssam Bar), which you can get at Kobawoo (where I usually go) or Seo Rae Gwan: http://www.calendarlive.com/dining/10...
He says "cool braised pork," whereas at Honey Pig, you grill slices of pork on a griddle-type thing. With bossam, the pork is cold/room temp, and you wrap it in lettuce with condiments. Don't remember seeing oysters, but you usually get mini brined shrimp. Bossam is usually pork belly, but I don't think pork shoulder is necessarily inauthentic. And I had thought it was steamed rather than braised.
Anyway, I recommend Kobawoo. It's a pretty popular place, so you may have to wait, and there may be no parking in the lot but I'd rather street-park and walk a few blocks than leave my keys with the valet, who stole change out of my car the last time. Haven't tried Seo Rae Gwan ... it's one of those weird places on Wilshire that kinda look like a hotel restaurant in Asia, but the review does sound really good.
I love the Honey Pig. Plus I love saying the name when people ask for a restaurant recommendation. It's funny, I used to eat pork from time to time, but when I got married (my wife is Vietnamese), we now eat a lot of pork. In fact, we just came back eating and I had Pork Chop w/ Broken Rice which also had Sour Pork Patties and Pork steamed in banana leaves. We also had Spring Rolls w/ Shredded Pork Skin. After all, it IS the other white meat!
Pig candy at Lou
Pork rump (or pump) at Mei Long Village
Pork X at Park's BBQ
Stewed pig's feet at Macau Street
Pig ears at Sam Woo BBQ
I have never been but my boyfriend loves the "pigskin sundays" @ bin8945.
8945 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
First, Bin 8945 is no longer doing the pig sunday thing. Second, I did a report on some chefs around town buying whole acorn-fed pigs from a farm in Iowa. La Quercia, known for its domestic proscuitto. I haven't checked in to see what the chefs did with their pork, or if their still doing, but it might be worth checking out.
Check this out!!!:
Hello from Ingredients,
Here is what is coming up in the next few weeks, hope to see you here.
PORK TASTING DINNER
thursday Feb 7th 7pm
5 courses of swine-a-licousness
nueske apple smoked bacon, yukon potato nage, sweet chilies and shrimp mousse
charcuterie du porc, housemade condiments
18 month serrano ham, arugula, quince vinaigrette, shaved leyenda cheese, arbequinas
slo roasted pork prime rib,
porcini salt crust, proscuitto au jus, apple tart
bacon-sage ice cream, almond bread pudding
$45 per person
very limited seating, reserve early
3521A. n.verdugo rd. montrose/glendale 91208
shop: tuesday thru saturday 11am to 6pm
lunch: tuesday thru saturday 12pm to 4pm
small bites: fri & sat 5pm tp 9pm
I'm so excited...I think my friend and I got the last spots...I put myself on their email list and that's how I found out about it...yippee!!!
Even better, it's BYOB.
Life is good with PIG
It's just a side, but the bacon terrine that comes with the filet mignon at Saddle Peak Lodge is fantastic.
For me? I can't get enough of pork belly! Crispy pork with Chinese broccoli, from different Thai places all around LA.
Pork shank at Enrique's and baised pork shoulder at Tri-Village.
17244 Downey Ave, Bellflower, CA 90706
6210 E Pacific Coast Hwy, Long Beach, CA 90803
14121 Jeffrey Rd, Irvine, CA 92620
Have not read the article, but agree the Los Angeles area has fantastic international pork dishes. In addition to the great places you've mentioned, I like the carnitas at La Azteca Tortilleria in East Los Angeles, tiny pork ribs with black beans at Triumphal Palace, Vietnamese pork chops in SGV/Westminster, AOC, etc. New York has none of this
I'm bringing this post back to life for a second. I tried Comme Ca last night for the first time. Whatever else I could say--this is a great, great restaurant--I need to say that the Saturday night special is Pork Belly.
Served on a bed of beluga lentils.
This was the best dish I've had in a restaurant in at least three or four years.