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Hi Stymie,
Calcata (near the Viterbo region) has changed alot over the years. I love the place and it certainly has a special magic about the area. Medieval village on top of very steep hilltop, spectacular. At this time of the year I would suggest you visit it on the weekend as it is more alive and alot of Italians travel a long way to visit and go to restaurants there. There used to be 2 restaurants and a take away pizzeria (8 years ago), but now there are 8 restaurants and all of them packed with people (mostly italians!) on Saturday and Sunday and from all reports all of them are good!