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Jan 13, 2008 10:58 AM

Tarte Tatin in le Marais

any recs for a "great" tarte tatin to start our mornings in paris? will be staying in le marais for two weeks in early may.


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  1. Tarte Tatin is a dessert. At least that's the only way I've ever seen it/served it. Leftovers are great for breakfast, but that's at home!

    Parisians generally eat croissants, brioche or pain complet for breakfast, in my experience.... a little fruit, maybe some yogurt.

    2 Replies
    1. re: ChefJune

      What ChefJune said.

      I can't imagine eat Tarte Tatin for breakfast. I usually have a café au lait, a buttered tartine and some fruit.

      If you're into sweet food for breakfast, head for the closest boulangerie and get some viennoiseries.

      1. re: ChefJune

        thanks for the reply.

        just for the record, it would be eaten at home (or sitting along the seine perhaps). we're renting an apartment. not expecting a cafe to serve tartes tatin in the morning. but i do appreciate the response.

      2. Like everyone else said you aren't finding tarte tatin in a restaurant/café for breakfast anywhere. However if you are renting an apartment you can buy the very decent frozen tarte tatin from picard and make it yourself in the morning. As for the best tarte tatin in Paris I suggest Berthillon on ile st. louis. Although known for its ice cream the tarte tatin is the best I have ever had.

        4 Replies
        1. re: spacesasha


          yes, we renting an apartment and plan on having most breakfasts there. appreciate your suggestion of berthillon.

          1. re: jomine

            Honestly do write up off Picard. There frozen products are really fantastic and you have a warm individual tart tatin ready in a few minutes. Plus they have excellent interesting canapés. There are tons of Picard all over the city. As for restaurants in the Marais if you get sick of French food go to rue des rosiers for some falafel or schwarma plus a small shop called Sacha Finkelstein has excellent take out prepared dips and other sundry items.

            1. re: spacesasha

              I really enjoy trying out things at Picard too. I can't say that everything I've tried is fantastic, but some have been! There is a Picard in the Marais on the rue des Francs Bourgeois, as well as others very close to the edges of the Marais,

              1. re: souvenir

                You're right some things at picard leave much to be desired. But then again only an idiot would buy frozen gaucamole!

        2. uhm... just so you know, you can eat whatever you want whenever you want to. it may be hard getting a restaurant to serve you a hot dinner at 7 am, but there's always food to go - and many patisseries have tarte tatins that you can eat in your hotel if the weather's bad, or sitting along the seine on a nice day, even in that little park behind notre dame...

          that said, i don't know the marais bakeries that well.

          3 Replies
          1. re: Bob Loblaw

            thanks bob......

            was starting to feel paranoid-as if the very asking of the question was committing some sort of gastronomic sin. truth is, i'm travelling with someone who likes a warm tarte tatin in the morning (particularly while sitting along the seine). we'll just play it by ear.

            putting the tartes tatin to bed - any favorite places in the marais? haven't been to paris in more than 4 years, so any news would be appreciated. particularly interested in the less formal. we pretty much know the "biggies".

            thank you!

            1. re: jomine

              jomine- I interpreted your original posting to mean that you were asking about the best tarte tatins in patisseries in the marais, so that you could buy them that morning or perhaps the night before. I usually have pain au raisin or croissants in the morning, but have been known to have a berry tart in the morning in France.

              It's been a couple of years since I rented an apartment in the Marais, so my recs would be a bit dated, and also given the rate of turnover, some of the patisseries may be gone so that another kind of retail can take their place. I hope La Fougasse on the rue de Bretagne is still there. I would recommend walking throughout your local streets and checking the various patisseries near your apartment. Nearby the Marais, or in the Marais, depending on your point of view is the rue Rambuteau. There are a couple of boulangeries and patisseries there worth checking out. Definitely not the Marais, but not too far away, I always go to the market street a bit over on rue Montorgueuil and visit the patisserie Stohrer, tho I can't remember specifically what their tarte tatin is like. Rue St Antoine in the Marais proper had some good patisseries. It would be great if you posted a review during or after your trip of what you find.

              1. re: jomine

                There are some excellent patisseries/boulangeries in the Marais or close by. As mentioned above, a short walk is Strohrer on r. Montorgueil, old world with beautiful display. Also Paul Bugat on blvd Beaumarchais, Pain de Sucre on r. Rambuteau, Drahonnet and Molineau on r. Vielle du Temple, Au Levain du Marais on r. de Turenne, a branch of Paul and Rachinel on r Saint-Antoine.

            2. Le Marais is big, but not short on good places. If you're nearby, the patisserie/boulangerie in the rus saint louis en l'ile is very recommended. There is Gérard Mulot next to the place des Vosges, at the corner of the rue du pas de la mule and rue tournelles.

              5 Replies
              1. re: souphie

                When did Gerard Mulot opened a branch next to the Pl. des Vosges? That is is news!

                1. re: PBSF

                  Well, happy to help. Actually, I was as surprised as you are and discovered the place while apartment-hunting. It is the former sous-chef of Mulot, he wanted to start his own business so they had him open a franchise instead, of which Mme Mulot seems to be a stockholder. So it's the Mulot method and brand, with some personalised features. Everything is made on site -- not "imported" from the rue de Seine or the rue Glacière.

                  1. re: souphie

                    Thanks for passing on the info. I like the croissants and viennoiserie at Au Levain du Marais better but it's always good to have more choices. Maybe Ma Bourgogne will buy their morning pastries from them. And with L'Ambroisie close by, it's the perfect area for an apartment.

                    1. re: PBSF

                      Of course I passed by l'Ambroisie during the apt-hunting (and I hope I get the apt, don't know yet). I am happy to report that the feuilleté belle humeur is back on the menu, and apparently the truffle season is getting much better despite a bad start (checked from les Elysées). But the feuilleté belle humeur, on said menu, was 230eur. So I decided that my daughter would get a birthday present and party this year and I would wait a bit for the feuilleté belle humeur. From Mulot, I lke the super-sophisticated style of pastry, the lightest galette ever. This is not necessarily the best, but it is one of the most refined.

                      1. re: souphie

                        what a dilemma Souphie, you must consider this carefully. Your daughter will surely have another birthday next year. But there might not be another feuilleté belle humeur <grin>.......I am sure it is worth every bit of the 260e! According to recent report from Vedat, Bernard Pacaud is better than ever. I cannot wait to return to the Hall of Wonders and L'Ambroise.

              2. Bouquet St Paul on rue de Rivoli..not too far from St. Paul has awesome tarte tatin! Probably not open in the morning, but if you are around for lunch or dinner, I'd highly recommend it. They have great croque monsieurs on pain poilane, and reasonable kir royales also.