477221 Tue Jan 08 07:15:01 -0800 2008 12 45 Japan 0 3273013 This is our first visit to Japan. We will be there from 26 February to 18 March. We will arrive jet-lagged at Narita Airport and plan to drive to Karuizama. I am interested to know if there is something along this route that we should enjoy. We will remain there for 10 days. Our preference in food tends to the less expensive for practical reasons, but we are looking to explore and are willing to pay more for something worth a detour - which this is! We hope to eat, ski, explore, and soak in onsen as often as possible. We then move on Nagarahano for one week, and return to Tokyo to fly back to Boston while our son remains in Aizu for several months to study. Any food and travel thoughts everywhere along the way would be most welcome. We want to make the most of our limited time there, and have a few gap days to explore other areas. Thank you in advance for any advice! , Tue Jan 08 07:15:01 -0800 2008 51746 chowfamily 1 3273196 You're basically traveling to a small, wealthy summer resort town completely out of season, which is a little unconventional. Driving there from Narita (it's a one hour Shinkansen ride from Tokyo Station) is even more unconventional. But you must have your reasons... Considering it's history, you're likely to find tasty French, Italian, and other Continental cuisines in Karuizawa. My image of the place is a as a town of resorts, which usually means expensive, inconvenient (shuttle buses) dining. But there must be a "downtown" area with Japanese restaurants. Mountain cuisine consists of lots root vegetables and mushrooms, tsukemono (pickles), and ni-mono (stewed items). You'll probably find nice nabe-mono (hot pot) as well. You can try asking for wild board hot pot (called "botan nabe" ぼたん鍋 or "inoshishi nabe" 猪鍋), but I'm not sure it's associated directly with those towns....Last week, one of the Japanese television channels was inundated with commercials for it's latest mini series about Mampei, a drama about the most famous, historical resort in Karuizawa. It's still around and may be worth checking out... I don't think most people would find enough to do in Osaka/ Kobe for 17 days, let alone where you are going. So it's hardly a limited amount of time. Here is the ASKU page for restaurants in Karuizawa if you read Japanese, have a friend, or feel like using translation software- http://www.asku.com/KK/120R/?area_id=20&_subarea_id=20018&_category_id=&submitButtonName.x=35&submitButtonName.y=13 . This list is top heavy with French and Italian.. Tue Jan 08 08:22:43 -0800 2008 3273013 10903 Silverjay 2 3273959 Thank you so much for your reply. We are there at that time of year only because it fits around our son's unexpected school plans. Nevertheless, we have waited too long to visit Japan, and wish to make the most of it. Great French and Italian foods are a 6 - 8 hour flight away from Boston, but Japan will take 24 hours plus, under likely uncomfortable circumstances (American Airlines) and we would like to experience some of the best food value the region has to offer. We have housing in Karuizawa and Naganohara with gaps for travel. Some of our best trips have been in the off-season, but this is new for us, and weather could be a factor. Our son has a rudimentary knowledge of Japanese. We are completely new to the language, and getting on a bit in years, but know how to drive on the left side. A recommendation for where to sleep and eat near Narita would be welcome. On the other hand, if we should take the train and sort out the necessary car rental in Karuizawa, that might be preferable. There will be three of us traveling, which is why we considered the airport car rental route. Whatever we do, we are very interested in the local cuisine and appreciate the advice you have offered. I am glad to know in advance that we might have time to explore further. Tue Jan 08 11:01:30 -0800 2008 3273196 51746 chowfamily 3 3275256 I really wasn't recommending French and Italian, but merely wanted you to understand what the Japanese food board regarded as destination dining in the area. It's not the best region to sample Japanese cuisine since most Japanese food slants toward seafood while mountain cuisine is pretty simple and narrower in scope. I would hit up the resort concierges or tourist bureau in town for more on where to eat as you won't get much here. Language will be a problem when you eat local though...Also, this isn't a travel site, but if I may render an opinion- ditch the car idea altogether unless you have some particular need for it you aren't mentioning. Japan has the best public transportation system in the world, not to mention that you'll be there long enough and travel enough to completely amortize and enjoy value in a JR rail pass. Also, if you're getting on in years, can't read the language, are driving on the opposite side of the road, and dealing with snowy and icy roads, you may not only be risking your own safety, but maybe others as well. Here are the hotels near Narita Airport- http://www.narita-airport.jp/en/travel/hotel/index.html . I've stayed at U-City for business before. It was fine. Tue Jan 08 16:00:14 -0800 2008 3273959 10903 Silverjay 4 3275468 Thank you for your thoughts. I know I am stretching the bounds of Chowhound, but I value and respect the input of posters here. I am looking forward to enjoying any and all cuisines while in Japan, and it makes sense to take our time getting to the mountains and venturing out to travel beyond them. Tue Jan 08 17:00:21 -0800 2008 3275256 51746 chowfamily 2 3342626 Folks, Chowhound's mission is to share tips on where to eat well, so we ask everyone to keep the discussions focused squarely on food. General travel advice falls outside the scope of this site's mission, because there are so many travel sites that handle that so well. Thanks for keeping this Chow-Shinkansen speeding along, on track and on time. All aboard! Mon Jan 28 17:54:26 -0800 2008 3273196 2 The Chowhound Team 3 3343425 I apologize, the detour was my fault. When I get to Japan my focus will be on finding the food, but my experience will be better as a result of this board. All aboard indeed!!! Tue Jan 29 03:31:32 -0800 2008 3342626 51746 chowfamily 1 3311657 I have to second the advice to avoid a car rental. Rail and bus transport in Japan is incredibly efficient, clean and safe. I have had the opportunity to drive in Ireland on their relatively deserted roads with "readable" signs. Have been to Japan 4 times and would never dream of attempting those roads. Additionally, I believe you need an international driver's license there. Get a rail pass before you leave- it will save you a bunch of money. As far a cheap eats go, I don't have first hand knowledge of the area you are going to. What I would recommend in general with regards to eating in Japan is to not be afraid to try the hole in the wall places or street food. These places are often run by mom and pop types and will give you the most authentic experience for the best price. Don't think you have to go to someplace fancy to get a great meal here - they take great pride in their food. Sat Jan 19 09:50:25 -0800 2008 3273013 77734 Sushiqueen36 1 3334812 Thanks for all your thoughts. We have ditched the car, and two of us will get rail passes. The third won't qualify, as he is staying more than 90 days. I wish we could get one for him, even at an extra cost, since it would simplify travel. Is there any other good option? We do have international drivers licenses, and one of us is a very good left-hand side-of-the-road winter driver, but thanks to your excellent advice we will use that option sparingly. We will now begin in Karuizama, travel to Kyoto for one week, then Hakone. Our locations are hopefully jumping-off points. Are there places or cuisines that you recommend in these areas? Udon, shellfish and tofu are of particular interest. Street food, and mom and pop places are very welcome, and we plan to seek them out. We would be happy to travel. Thanks again for helping us focus our trip. Sat Jan 26 07:03:20 -0800 2008 3273013 51746 chowfamily 2 3339552 From Kyoto, you can visit Osaka, Kobe, and Nara quite easily by train. There's plenty of travel and food recommendations for those places around the internet. Kyoto is well-known for tofu and soba, among many other things and Osaka is regarded as one of the best eating cities in the world- if you believe Osakans at least... Neither Karuizawa or Hakone really offer any particular "jumping-off" opportunities since they are both semi-isolated mountain resort destinations. They are more or less both weekend resort spots from Tokyo. My wife, who is from Tokyo, insists that going to Karuizawa in the winter has the same appeal as going to the Hamptons in the winter. She suggests some things may not be open. Hakone has many onsen resorts, so it's never really out of season. Though, most of the hiking trails are closed and some of the tourist circuit may be closed. You could easily find nice resorts near Kyoto as well. The general appeal of Hakone is its' proximity to Tokyo. There's trains that run between there and Shinjuku that take just over an hour. (Just note, it's not directly on a JR train line, but reasonably close to Odawara- a JR shinkansen stop.) The meals at onsen resorts are usually several courses with plenty of seafood included. You should book in advance, especially if you will be there on a weekend. From Odawara, you could jump off to Yugawara, Atami, Mishima, or Gotemba. But why? They are onsen or summer holiday spots. None of these places are really the type you stroll around and cruise markets, street stalls, and pop into hole-in-the-wall restaurants, except for maybe around the central train stations. If you're looking for those type of experiences, your best bets are the metropolises- most specifically Tokyo, greatest eating city in the universe. Sun Jan 27 22:20:03 -0800 2008 3334812 10903 Silverjay 3 3339800 Thanks so much for your response. Travel plans are changing accordingly... Mon Jan 28 05:37:00 -0800 2008 3339552 51746 chowfamily 4 3347177 I happen to like Karuizawa. As for eats, you should definitely eat at the Wakadori chicken rice bowl restaurant. In winter, he's close to the station, and in summer he uses his store near the tennis courts. This guy makes the Soup Nazi look tame, but it is really an experience, and the food is great. Another place to try is Masayuki Suju's, which is local cuisine and is really very good. Lastly, the Hoshinoya ryokan has a very good restaurant, and I believe they allow non-guests to eat there. Food there is also locally-sourced and very good. Wed Jan 30 01:15:14 -0800 2008 3339800 161889 Uncle Yabai 5 3361577 I appreciate your recommendations. It is great to have some definite destinations for when we first arrive, and all of them sound great. There is nothing like a good meal to help settle in. Thanks again, I will report back. Sun Feb 03 13:16:40 -0800 2008 3347177 51746 chowfamily