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Dec 17, 2007 10:27 AM

Raising the Dim Sum Bar - Gitlo's in Brighton

Heck if the lunch I just had is any indication throw the bar away.

The 17 year old prodigy in the kitchen at Gitlo's has been working in hotel and restaurant kitchens since he was 11. I got the scoop from Gitlo himself.

Noone in Boston makes refined dim sum along these lines. Gitlo said to me, "here in Boston they make old fashioned dim sum."

Can't wait to get back and eat again.

I had homemade noodles with ham and veggies. Never had noodles like these before. Fat in the middle, tappering down at the ends, remarkable chewy texture. Served with a great julienne of peppers (with a hint of spice) and ham and other veggies. If I had room, I'd eat another serving right now.

The "Cantonese Dumplings" had one of the most delicate wrappers I have ever had. And a very delicate filling of pork, chive, and water chestnut. The filling reminded me a bit of the filling in the fried turnovers at Shangri-La, but with more meat, water chestnuts, and a delicacy that the Shangri-La filling just does not have. The wrapper quite simply could not be any more delicate. Reminds me of the wrappers at a fancy dim sum place in SF (that is 2X as expensive.)

For dessert I had the custard bun. Mouth scaldingly hot molten custard inside a nicely done bun. I think the bun wrapper could have been a bit more delicate, but this is an absurd quibble as these buns were also superb. I would not even consider that critique except that they really do seem to take the whole shebang foodwise to another level.

The space is spartan, almost bleak. There was noone else there for lunch. It is my hope that there will be lines out the door very soon. I really want these guys to succeed. As they have only been open a week or so they are just getting up to speed.

There is nothing like this place in the Boston dim sum realm. I will be back this week before the lines form...

Gitlo's Dim Sum Bakery
164 Brighton Ave.
Allston, MA 02134

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  1. Nice report, StriperGuy. Is it eat in or takeout only?

    4 Replies
    1. re: gini

      It is in the original V. Majestic Space. Eat in. I think they could probably even fit another table or two.

      1. re: StriperGuy

        Never went to the V. Majestic. Thanks! I'll have to check this out - a friend & I are trying to eat at every dim sum place in metro Boston (still waiting to try the Thai dim sum place out in Waltham).

        1. re: StriperGuy

          Sounds very interesting. Is it Cantonese Dim Sum such as shu mai, har gau, beef meatballs, etc but just more creative versions of same?

          1. re: bakerboyz

            Definitely Cantonese style, not even creative, but really more refined.

      2. To clarify, if you go looking: ON Brighton Ave, but IN Allston, at the corner of Brighton and Harvard.

        3 Replies
        1. "I had homemade noodles with ham and veggies. Never had noodles like these before. Fat in the middle, tapering down at the ends, remarkable chewy texture."

          Ooh! I haven't had those in ages! My friends and I used to call them "worm noodles" - Dynasty had them, if I recall (way back in the days when that was one of the good places to go), in those glass bowls inverted on a plate, as you can get sticky rice if you don't get it steamed in a leaf. Until you described these noodles I had forgotten that they somehow disappeared from local dim sum carts.

          Sounds excellent - BFP and I were already thinking about hitting them for our weekly Wednesday dinner out. Thanks for the writeup!

          2 Replies
          1. re: Allstonian

            So funny cause I almost said worm-like... but didn't want any ick factor.

          2. Thanks for the report. Will definitely check it out.

            1 Reply
            1. Interesting - will have to try. The noodles you describe sound like "silver pin noodles" (translation of chinese name). Are a bit translucent in color and, as you wrote, chewier in texture. Typically sauteed with a variety of julienned veggies, mushrooms, and maybe some kind of meat. They used to offer these at a few dim sum places, though they mysteriously disappeared over time. My mom still makes these by hand every Thanksgiving.

              3 Replies
                1. re: StriperGuy

                  Hi StriperGuy: Thanks for the tip. The silver pin noodles was one of my favorites growing up in Toronto and haven;t seen them in a long time. I'll definitely head over. Yet another great cheap eats on that stretch of Brighton Ave.

                  1. re: gourmaniac

                    I could literally do all of my eating, period in the 10 block radius with the nexus at Brighton and Harvard. That would encompass Super88 to the East, Cafe Belo to the West, Grain and Salt, etc. etc.