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Dec 16, 2007 09:43 AM

Arbutus, SoHo, London

Some of the best pork I've had in a while: the meat is rolled into a log with a good rim of fat, sliced thinly and arranged on the plate. Densely flavoured porchetta, backed by a tiniest hint of apple sweetness, and smoothed over with just the right nutty level of shaved pecorino. Perfect.

Braised duck is tender, moist and given to just the right shade of livery flavour. Perked up by the sweetness of quince, and contrasting well with salsify that has taken on the richness of the braising liquid, and the clean, vegetal flavour of sprout tops, finely oiled by a thin film of butter.

A chocolate soup made with balanced quality chocolate is more dense and oozey than liquid, and is paired with a side of caramel ice cream.

A decent selection of wines, with many whites by the glass and reds by the carafe (1/3 of a bottle). Friendly, engaging service. Charming space.

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  1. Sounds absolutely delicious. I'm looking forward to going back some day, as I had the set lunch the last time I went, and although lovely, the portions were a little small for me. I'm going to Wild Honey tomorrow and have high expectations!

    Helen Yuet Ling Pang

    1. Was just there on Saturday the 15th, the second time for both of us. I had the Porchetta and the veal shin and my partner had the game terrine and the duck. Everything was wonderful.