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Up and Down at Javan

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Dave Feldman Apr 13, 2000 01:37 AM

Perhaps we had bad luck, but our party of five, all ordering different dishes, had a mixed experience at arguably the most heralded Iranian in Los Angeles. In particular, almost all of the appetizers were weak. No, it's not tomato season yet, but there's no excuse for the underseasoned salads (even the parsley was strangely bland), the watery eggplant, indifferent pickles, etc.

The kebabs were just fine. Surprisingly, the whitefish kebab was the big winner, but the tenderloin was excellent. The lamb kebab, surprisingly, wasn't quite as flavorful. I had a special stew with spinach, lamb, red beans, and garlic that was pleasantly sour, while my brother's marinated lamb shank was one-dimensional but decent enough.

With so many excellent alternatives (I kept fantasizing about fatoush while eating the pallid salads here), I'm not sure I'd run back to Javan. That said, Javan was jammed with happy eaters (we were one of the few gringos there) and it is a big favorite among partisans of the bridge club located directly above.

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