<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<topic>
  <id>46863</id>
  <title>LA Eats</title>
  <published_at>Mon Jan 12 16:24:39 -0800 1998</published_at>
  <post_count>33</post_count>
  <board>
    <id>2</id>
    <name>Los Angeles Area</name>
  </board>
  <posts>
    <post>
      <post>
        <level>0</level>
        <id>233095</id>
        <content>To All:
 
I'm going to  LA on business and I'm looking for  good places to eat near my hotel in Century City, especially Sushi and Mexican.  My favorite was Sushi Nozawa but  they were outed on the front  page of the NY Times.   As for Mexican I love El Tepiyac but usually don't have time to get there.  I enjoyed the food at La Serenata on Pico, but the attitude was rude.
Thanks!</content>
        <published_at>Mon Jan 12 16:24:39 -0800 1998</published_at>
        <parent_id></parent_id>
        <user>
          <id>0</id>
          <name>Barry Strugatz</name>
        </user>
      </post>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>1</level>
      <id>233096</id>
      <content>The Westside isn't the most happening
of chowhound locations, but you might try:
 
1) Sushi Sasabune, on Sawtelle. The same
sort of sushi-nazi tendencies as Nozawa 
(the chefs once worked at Nozawa), but
with much better food. Don't even think
of ordering a California roll. (Ginza
Sushi-Ko, the best and most expensive
Japanese restaurant in the US, is nearby
at 2 Rodeo, but I'm assuming you don't have
$400 to blow dinner.)
 
2) Border Grill, on 4th St., in Santa
Monica. I know, I know--the chefs are
Anglo, TV famous, and attract a noisy
crowd, but trust me: the food is much
better than at the somewhat overrated
La Serenata. Or for something different,
try Guelaguetza on Palms at Sepulveda,
which is probably the best Oaxacan-style
restaurant in the country at the moment.
If you're doing the East L.A. thing, let
me know. I can give you a dozen places.
 
3) People will tell you about ``great''
Chinese places on the Westside. Don't
believe them. The closest great Chinese
food is in Chinatown, and you might as well
go out to Monterey Park. Lake Spring Cuisine
is my favorite for vegetarian goose, jade
shrimp, Shanghainese fish casserole and
the notorious pork pump. Or go to the great
mall of China, 17 restaurants strong, on
Valley at Del Mar. Choose among them Tung
Lai Shun, the Islamic Chinese place, and have
sesame bread and braised lamb.
 
4) the Westside is rich in Iranian
restaurants, though most are of the
rice 'n' kebab sort. Javan, on Santa Monica
Boulevard near Sawtelle, has a more extensive
menu, and is quite good;
 
5) There are also a lot of izaka-ya, Japanese
pubs with elaborate, seasonal food. Ita-Cho,
on Santa Monica at Highland, is the most
user-friendly of these; the excellent Yuu,
on Santa Monica near Sepulveda, is closer
to your hotel. Neither is particularly cheap.
 
6) And don't forget about Campanile, which 
is sort of the foodie hang in town. You
can sit at the bar, and eat splendidly for
not much. Mondays are family-dish nights
(pot-au-feu, cassoulet); Thursday is grilled
cheese night: not to be missed.
</content>
      <published_at>Mon Jan 12 17:38:05 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233095</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>2</level>
      <id>233097</id>
      <content>Jonathan--
 
I've only eaten at the Border Grill once and was not bowled over at all, and at La Serenata many times, but I'm amazed that you like the food better at the former (in the spirit of full disclosure, I must admit that I've never had anything other than fish at La Serenata -- what I have sampled of non-seafood dishes at La Serenata has been good but not oustanding).
 
But rather than fighting, I'm hoping for some recommendations:
 
1.  What Mexican restaurants do you like better than La Serenata (besides B.G.)
 
2.  And are there any fish or seafood restaurants (other than Japanese) that you would recommend?  Any ethnic varieties are fine, although I'd also be interested in hearing about your recommendations for American fish restaurants.
 
Even if they are occasionally pricey, I think you are a little tough on the food available on the west side.   I think Chinois is consistently wonderful, and Rockenwagner, although inconsistent when at its most ambitious, is a particularly friendly and not too expensive place to have a wonderful lunch.
 
I don't care how many foodies go there, Bombay Cafe still serves terrific Indian food, especially the beach food.
 
The french fries at the Brentwood Mart are great soul food.   
 
And the ice cream place right off of Bundy and Sunset is sensational (but why have I forgotten its name?).
 
Dave
 
</content>
      <published_at>Tue Jan 13 20:52:38 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233096</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Dave Feldman</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>233098</id>
      <content>Dave:
Congratulations--you hit almost all
my pet peeves in one short posting!
Don't hate me, but:
 
1) Some food guys  think Bombay
Cafe did for Indian food what Spago
did for Mediterranean cooking: 
modernized it, intensified the flavors,
introduced California-style ingredient
fetishes to a cuisine traditionally more
involved with the complexity of spicing 
than with the provenance of the vegetables.
Bombay Cafe's cooking is undeniably lighter
than what you find at the ghee-soaked
``authentic'' places in Artesia and 
Cerritos. And the restaurant is undeniably
popular--many people, though there are 
few Indians among them, consider it the
best Indian restaurant in Los Angeles. I
just prefer real Indian food--and a new branch
of the superb Southern Indian vegetarian
Madhu's Dasaprakash recently opened not two
blocks away from Bombay.
 
2) I think La Serenata is okay, but
one-dimensional--almost everything
worth getting there involves a bland
piece of whitefish seared off and served
with sauces--guajillo, avocado, cilantro--
which are fine, but not exactly made a 
la minute. (The famous antojitos, the
sopes and gorditas and such can be 
pretty leathery.) The prices are 
astronomical, though and the crowd is mostly
slumming Westsiders. There's something
disconcerting about a restaurant where you're
more likely to see Michelle Pfeiffer than
the guy who lives around the corner. If
it were a simple corner fish place, 
I'd probably love it. As it is, I prefer
even Senor Fish.
 
3) L.A. has the best Chinese restaurants
in the country, and I can never go to
 Chinois without wondering why I'm paying
$100 a person for food that is actually
better in its authentic version in San Gabriel
at about 20 percent of the cost. The problem
with Puck's marriage of Chinese flavors and
French technique is that the Chinese flavors
he has in mind are more of the oversweet Panda
Inn variety rather than the subtler cooking at
the new wave Shanghai or HK-style places. I
do like the foie gras with pineapple, though.
 
4) Rockenwagner was fine in the old Venice
spot--especially the crab souffle with
mango--but has fallen quite far in the
last few years.
 
5) People like to dog Border Grill, but though
the restaurant has its ups and downs, it's on
a major up at the moment: amazing handmade 
tortillas, rock shrimp with toasted chiles, 
portabello ``mulitas,'' etc. I like it better
than the overhyped Frontera Grill in
Chicago. I have too many downtown
favorites to list in a single posting, but
try Antojitos Denise's for the amazing lonja,
Ciro's for flautas, Juanito's for tamales,
Guelaguetza for mole, La Taquiza for mulitas,
Super Torta for Mexican sandwiches and Ana
Maria's in the Grand Central Market
for the crispy gorditas of dreams. Oh, and
the cheese-soaked antojitos at La Super Rica
in Santa Barbara are worth the drive.
 
6) The popularity of the chicken 'n' seasoned-
fries place in the Brentwood Country Mart
continues to amaze me. Maybe people just
really like paprika.
 
Anyway, there's always the Eastside...
</content>
      <published_at>Wed Jan 14 10:40:26 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233097</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>4</level>
      <id>233099</id>
      <content>How about Patina folks? French/Califorian.
 
I think it's on the Westside somewhere. I ate there a 
year ago with a friend and everything we had was 
excellent. The decor was beautiful (not that I ever let 
that sway my palate!) and the chef Joacqim (sp?) and 
his staff very friendly.
 
It's "cheap" compared to Chinois [which BTW Dave, I 
liked it too! But that was 10 yrs ago when they opened. 
Never made it back since.].  And a spot I look fwd to 
returning to.
 
I can't say that about Valentino's. Has any one eaten 
at that highly-rated Italian place? I ate there a year 
ago, and it was one of the WORST italian meals I ever 
had. The ragu looked and tasted like Chef boy r dee 
(aha, sorry as a chowhound, I haven't seen that word 
enough to spell it). The whole meal was blah and the 
staff very clubby/snobby.
 
The worse thing was, I was dining with a friend who 
doesn't normally go to fancy/expensive restaurants 
cause he thinks they are a ripoff. So much for my 
attempt to win him over!
 
JT</content>
      <published_at>Wed Jan 14 14:57:02 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233098</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Janet Traub</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>5</level>
      <id>233101</id>
      <content>Janet,
 
I have only eaten once at Valentino and it was a disaster, too.  Are we the only two unlucky losers?
 
Haven't been to Patina yet, but would love to.
 
DF</content>
      <published_at>Thu Jan 15 01:20:06 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233099</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Dave Feldman</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>6</level>
      <id>234533</id>
      <content>At the recommendation of a friend (who used to rave about Valentino's) I went there three times (one of the times with my friend and a group of 8) and all three times I was disappointed (slow and inattentive service, food not up to par or prepared as requested).  I have not been back...
</content>
      <published_at>Wed Jan 10 20:41:16 -0800 2001</published_at>
      <parent_id>233101</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Haral Tsitsivas</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>7</level>
      <id>234562</id>
      <content>I agree.</content>
      <published_at>Mon Jul 02 18:10:25 -0700 2001</published_at>
      <parent_id>234533</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>zeke</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>4</level>
      <id>233100</id>
      <content>I'm not going to debate you point by point, Jonathan.  Rather, the next time I'm in L.A., I'm going to take you out to dinner, either at some place you like or some place I like.  And I want to eat the same dishes and see if we still disagree.
 
I'll say this much.  I've been lucky enough to eat quite a few meals with cooks, food critics, etc.  It always seems that when I sit down with them and actually share the same meal, we usually agree about most items.   Sort of like when you take the car to the mechanic and you can't get him to hear the ping.
 
My fantasy is to go to a widely praised French restaurant with a critic and eat what I think is overpriced slop and have said critic explain to me why this pigeon en croute is better than a side order of grilled ceballitos.  But whenever I get the chance, invariably the critic says:  "yeah, they're having an offnight."
 
Can I repeat a "don't hate me"here.  You know that I greatly admire your work, and although I don't get to L.A. as often as I used to, I've used your columns as the basis for many a fine meal.  But...
 
You do seem resistant to experimentation in "ethnic" restaurants, and I don't really understand it.  Let's use "Bombay Cafe" as an example.  Why shouldn't Indian chefs try local produce?  Different spice combinations?
 
DF</content>
      <published_at>Thu Jan 15 01:17:00 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233098</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Dave Feldman</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>5</level>
      <id>233102</id>
      <content>"Sort of like when you take the car to the mechanic and you can't get him to hear the ping"
 
"But whenever I get the chance, invariably the critic says: "yeah, they're having an offnight.""
 
Hee hee...GREAT stuff, Dave. I, for one, plead guilty as charged! But in defense of critics, you gotta remember that places DO swing wildly; restaurants ain't movies, so we're reviewing moving targets and your mileage may vary.
 
But...the following's unfair:
 
"You do seem resistant to experimentation in "ethnic" restaurants"
 
I don't think that's true AT ALL.
 
Ciao</content>
      <published_at>Thu Jan 15 09:31:52 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233100</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Jim Leff</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>6</level>
      <id>233105</id>
      <content>Jim,
 
Here's how I see the problem.  Of course everyone, chowhound and critic alike, fantasizes about finding the perfect small, personal, authentic ethnic spot, particularly if it's a rare cuisine.  
 
Then the review hits.  I'm sure regulars rue the day someone like you comes around and touts the restaurant.  Then the crowds come.  And then the bickering begins.  The restaurant gets listed in Zagat's and the old regulars complain how the place has gone downhill.
 
In the "old regulars" mind, the place has lost its charm as the Zagatites converge.
 
To the critics, the place goes downhill as it has to struggle to feed many more people.  Their "find" becomes a "sell-out."
 
I've been both a "regular" and a "Zagatite" at times.  I have my doubts sometimes whethere the restaurant has really gone downhill or changed so much -- it's just that the regulars resent the intrusion of the masses.
 
Or do you think i"m all wet?
 
DF</content>
      <published_at>Thu Jan 15 23:52:24 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233102</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Dave Feldman</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>7</level>
      <id>233108</id>
      <content>I'm not sure a critic is capable of 
ruining a restaurant. I mean, there is
that initial surge of humanity, which
can last as long as a month, that can
be mighty annoying to the regulars--and
by the regulars, I mean more the, say, Sri
Lankans that patronize a Sri Lankan 
restaurant than people like us who
just dig Sri Lankan food--but that 
eventually fades away.
 
And in my experience, six weeks after a review
in even the Times, even with 23 points in
the Zagat, a blurb in the city mag, and a slew
of raves from the weeklies, that same Sri Lankan
restaurant will again be pretty much trendy-free, 
with maybe a 15-20 percent increase in customers.
(Personally, I think one of the great perks 
about being a critic is looking around 
at the two or three tables of honkys in
a restaurant, knowing that
you've helped a quality-minded small
businessman become just a little bit 
more prosperous.)
 
Which isn't to say some restaurants aren't
ready for reviews: if a kitchen seems taxed
by the simple job of getting appetizers on
the table for a party of three in an empty
restaurant, they should be given a few months. 
 
But I can't understand why people are loath
to let critics ``discover'' their finds. Short of 
La Caridad getting a four-star review in the 
NY Times, which will happen about the time
geese produce foie gras of their own free
will, positive, sensitively written press
can only help a restaurant.
 
</content>
      <published_at>Wed Jan 21 18:41:23 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233105</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>8</level>
      <id>233109</id>
      <content>I will be staying near Sunset and La Cienega , any good  places  nearby?  Thanks.</content>
      <published_at>Tue Jan 27 09:53:03 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233108</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Barry Strugatz</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>9</level>
      <id>233110</id>
      <content>Sunset Strip isn't the richest neighborhood 
for restaurants, though I actually like the
original Spago now better than I have in years:
the creeps seem to have all migrated to the
Beverly Hills location, and the pizza is perfect.
 
You might find the upscale Thai cooking at Talesai
amusing: try the hor mok, seafood steamed in
coconut milk, which has little of the intricate
spicing I like in this dish, but uses incomparably
better seafood than most Thai places. Avoid the
pretty sidewalk cafes in Sunset Plaza like the
plague, unless model-watching is more important
than food to you. Fenix just lost its amazing 
chef, Ken Frank: stay away. Also, people may
tell you about the ``great'' Chinese food at
Joss, but don't believe them: it's a yuppie
hell.
 
But Alto Palato, right down the hill from
where you are staying, is a first-rate Italian
restaurant, with wispy-crusted Roman-style 
pizza and a great dish of spaghetti with lemon
zest and marscapone. Jozu, on Melrose, is
a fine Pacific Rim place with an amazing wine 
list of tiny California producers, a little
like a Union Square Cafe with a Japanese
accent.
 
If you don't mind driving into East Hollywood,
you might be blown away by the L.A. Foodcourt
on Hollywood near Normandie, which is 
home to the Thai Elvis and some pretty ok
Thai food, or the fine Palm Restaurant next
door, which specializes in Isaan salads and
Thai game dishes (ask for the off-menu steamed
trout in tamarind broth, the phad phed curry
of wild pig and the garlic-pepper frog). 
 
Ruen Pair, in the same minimall as Palm, is
L.A.'s best Thai-Chinese restaurant, and the
place to go for fried morning glory with garlic, 
crumbled pork with Chinese olives and
crunchy mussel omelets.
 
Chamika, in Hollywood proper, is a great, if
basic, Sri Lankan restaurant, with all the
weird starches (the noodle nets called 
stringhoppers, the steamed coconut logs
called pittu, the crunchy coffee-filter
lookalikes called appes) and wonderful black
curries. BYOB. 
 
Hope this helps.
</content>
      <published_at>Tue Jan 27 18:16:49 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233109</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>10</level>
      <id>233120</id>
      <content>How about Il Sole on Sunset?  I guess the question is 
really directed at Jonathan.  What do you think?</content>
      <published_at>Wed Feb 18 01:10:27 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233110</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Joe Miller</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>11</level>
      <id>233121</id>
      <content>I don't know Il Sole, probably because of my
tendency to ignore Italian restaurants in that
vast chasm between the haimishness of Casa Bianca
and the haughtiness of Vincenti. Is it great?
 
Are you the chef Joe Miller? I do like Joe's a lot.
</content>
      <published_at>Wed Feb 18 09:19:44 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233120</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>12</level>
      <id>233122</id>
      <content>In reverse order:  I'm not the chef, although I know 
him and his work (he's terrific, as are his 
restaurants - Joe's, Joe Joe's, &amp; Reed's).  I've eaten 
at Il Sole only once - last year - but found it very 
Italian.  I would definitely like to go back.</content>
      <published_at>Thu Feb 19 01:07:55 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233121</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Joe Miller</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>5</level>
      <id>233103</id>
      <content>It's not so much the freedom of, say,
an Indian chef to play around with 
different produce or spices if he or 
she wants to--I'll rarely complain 
about a chef substituting zucchini 
for drumstick, and one of my favorite 
local halal Pakistani joints makes a 
dynamite curry of jalapeno peppers masala
that can't possibly exist in that exact 
form in Karachi. The best HK chefs now
play with Japanese flavors (and, unfortunately,
mayonnaise), the way they probably played
with flavors from Swatow: cuisine, agreed,
thrives on a constant state of flux.
 
It's the wholesale Europeanization of  
non-European cuisines that bugs me, the idea
that to succeed--i.e., draw Range Rovers,
charge high prices, and earn the respect of the
Beard House guys--it is necessary to tone down
spices, eliminate stinky ingredients like shrimp
paste and asafoetida, cut the fat in half and
adjust joyous, communal dining styles to fit
date-night appetizer-entree-dessert
expectations. Something is gained, yes, but
too much is lost.
 
BTW, Patina seems to be in a small slump--
I've had two just-ok meals there in the last
month--but I just had one of the best dinners
of my life at Valentino (which often 
isn't as good when your last name doesn't
happen to be Claiborne or Reichl). Great
goose risotto with madiera and utterly 
astonishing veal agnolotti wetted simply with
butter. Go figure.
 
</content>
      <published_at>Thu Jan 15 11:45:06 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233100</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>6</level>
      <id>233104</id>
      <content>Hi Jonathan -- just to add my 2 cents in.  It bugs me 
too if any of these non-European restaurants water 
down their food to suit the masses.  It sure does not 
impress THIS Beard House member !!  I am all for 
experimenting, but I still look for the spicing and 
flavors to be true to the original cuisine.
 
There is nothing wrong with non-European restaurants  
trying to get a larger slice of the dining-out dollars 
pie.  However, the food has to keep its integrity.  
What really bugs me is that when some Europeans open 
up some faux Asian place serving mediocre food, the 
crowds and (some)food writers rush in, proclaiming how 
great the spot is and how wonderful the food is.  A 
good example would be Le Colonial (opened by 3 French 
guys, with a so-so Vietnamese cook)which first opened 
in NY and then in your neck of the woods.  
 
Back to the point about experimenting.  I feel that 
chefs need to know how to treat and make use of these 
"foreign" ingredients before playing around with 
them.  Like the cliche says "Just because you throw  
lemongrass in your soup or sauce doesn't mean you are 
cooking Asian or Fusion".  I'm sure you know too many 
of them who, having spent a week in Thailand or 
wherever, think they are experts and know everything 
about that cuisine.</content>
      <published_at>Thu Jan 15 20:32:25 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233103</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Gary Cheong</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>234543</id>
      <content>The name of the ice cream place forgotten by Dave is Eiger's. It's at 124 S. Barrington Place, just south of Sunset. And it's divine.
 
Call 310 471-6955 to check on hours--they close by 6 on most week nights.</content>
      <published_at>Fri Feb 09 13:39:43 -0800 2001</published_at>
      <parent_id>233097</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Sam</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>2</level>
      <id>233106</id>
      <content>Thanks for the tips.  The  Oaxacan place sounds very interesting what kind of dishes should I order?
 
Have you ever been to El Tepeyac on No. Evergreen?   They have the best burritos I have ever eaten.  The machaca was unbelievable.  I haven't been there in years but recently I got a report that they are as great as ever.</content>
      <published_at>Mon Jan 19 13:25:57 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233096</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Barry Strugatz</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>233107</id>
      <content>The big thing at Oaxacan places, of course,
is the mole, elaborate, distinctly pre-
conquest stews made with dozens
of freshly ground spices, herbs and aromatics,
and of the famous seven moles
of Oaxaca, Guelaguetza usually has five or
six: the gravy-like amarillo; brick-red
 barbacoa of goat; spicy coloradito; and
a weirdly soothing verde, a vegetable
puree that tastes as if it's spiked with
half the contents of a bruja's medecine chest.
 
Foremost among the moles is probably the 
notorious black mole, a stunning, three-
dimensional thing that includes chocolate,
burnt bread and at least half a dozen things the
restaurant imports from Oaxaca, which is to the 
other moles you may have had what a horse is
as opposed to a painting of a horse. Astonishing.
 
Guelaguetza also imports toasted crickets,
which you might as well try, and the 
tlayudas, manhole-cover-size Oaxacan tostadas 
smeared with black beans, crumbles of strong cheese
and little rabbit-pellets of Oaxacan chorizo, 
are first-rate.
 
El Tepeyac is the same as it ever was, the
burritos still weighing as much as a small
child, the constant presence of cops still
soothing in this ultra-rough neighborhood. I
mostly go to the venerable Ciro's down 
the street, which makes the kind of 
flautas you wish your grandmother had
made, as well as a juicy avocado salsa that
I tend to dream about whenever I'm out of
Los Angeles for more than a week or two.  
</content>
      <published_at>Wed Jan 21 11:10:35 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233106</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>4</level>
      <id>233111</id>
      <content>Jonathan:
 
Thank you so much for your suggestion of Guelagatza.  It was so good I travelled twice through El Nino drenched streets to have dinner there 2 consecutive evenings.  When I tasted the complimentary chips with sweet salsa and crumbled cheese I knew I was going to enjoy myself.  I had the Mole Negro there and now I can understand what all the fuss is about.  The levels and intensities of the sauce were miles above my previous experiences with this dish.  The next night I had the goat stew, the meat swimming in a fantastic ambrosial orange broth.  The meat was a tender cut latticed with ribs and assorted bones, necessitating all my orthopedic skills to devour every morsel.  There was much more on the menu that I will explore next time I'm in town.
 
Other memorable food moments.  Found myself near Sushi Nozawa at lunch time and ventured in.  It is still the best I have had and that includes trips to Matsuhisa.  Nozawa's sushi, melts and yields to the slightest pressure of the tongue against the palate.  His tuna puts other places toro to shame, and his fresh crab roll was amazing.
 
Another sushi p[lace I tried while not in the same league was very respectable and the decor elegant was Sushi Roku at 8445 w. third street.
 
I also had an amazing margherita pizza at Orso.
 
Next time I will try your other suggestions.  Thanks again.</content>
      <published_at>Tue Feb 10 11:55:16 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233107</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Barry Strugatz</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>5</level>
      <id>233112</id>
      <content>I'm glad you liked Guelaguetza: their moles 
are out of this world. I've recently become
addicted to a dish of theirs called salsa de
queso, which is essentially like good huevos
rancheros made with soft, white cheese instead
of the eggs. And you can't really leave the
place without trying the fried beetles with
lime and chile, which look vile but taste
a little like Cool Ranch Doritos: not bad.
 
And Guelaguetza is just the tip of the 
iceberg. We've been seeing dozens of Oaxacan
places open in L.A. in the last year--Oaxacans
have made up a huge percentage of the behind-
the-lines kitchen workers here for years, but
only recently seem to have accumulated enough 
capital to open restaurants. One I
had lunch at last week, the splendid Tlacolula
in Koreatown, may be even better than Guelaguetza,
with a minted, weirdly complex green mole of
pork that is one of the best Mexican dishes
I've ever tasted.
 
But as for Sushi Roku--if they burned the place
to the ground come the revolution, sowed salt
on the ashes and had a coven of warty witches
dance cackling over the still-smoldering earth,
that still wouldn't be enough penance for the
crimes it has committed against cuisine.
Maybe you hit them on a unaccountable good day.
 

</content>
      <published_at>Wed Feb 11 12:34:20 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233111</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>6</level>
      <id>233113</id>
      <content>I get the feeling that Sushi Roku is not your favorite spot.  What's the deal there?</content>
      <published_at>Thu Feb 12 11:49:27 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233112</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Barry Strugatz</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>7</level>
      <id>233114</id>
      <content>Sushi Roku, I guess, is the gussied up
tourist version of a few good places--
specifically the tricked-out sushi at
Matsuhisa and the homey izaka-ya dishes
available at Ita-Cho, Yuu and the other
Japanese pubs--but the food is distinctly
subpar, and the rudeness of the front of
the house is breathtaking, unless you
happen to be Mira Sorvino or Russell Simmons.
And the people who frequent the place are
so smug about their connoisseurship: bad
is one thing; pretentious and bad warrants
lethal injection.
</content>
      <published_at>Fri Feb 13 03:43:49 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233113</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>8</level>
      <id>233115</id>
      <content>Jonathan:
 
If I may pick your incredible brain on a few LA subjects...
 
Which places do you like for breakfast.  I like DuPars are there any other good coffe shops around?  How's Norm's?
 
In terms of chains how is Poquito Mas?  How do you compare it to La Salsa? 
 
 Where do you like to go for  fish tacos and Mexican seafood?
 
What places do you like in the Fairfax area?-
 
Thanks!</content>
      <published_at>Fri Feb 13 10:05:04 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233114</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Barry Strugatz</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>9</level>
      <id>233116</id>
      <content>Norm's? For real? It's like Denny's, only
cheaper. I admit, I used to eat there in 
my Top Ramen days--teriyaki pork steak, 
with soup, salad, dessert, roll and coffee
was $1.49, but to me, it tasted like $1.59 at
least.
 
 I do miss Ship's, the greatest coffee
shop this side of Chicago's Lou Mitchell's.
Five Horsemen, in Burbank, is pretty great;
Canter's Deli, open 24 hours, is a great hang.
And I adore--though you may not--Fred 62 in
Los Feliz (which is more Coffee Shop than coffee
shop, if you know what I mean), but manages
to combine the best attributes of Sanamluang,
Ben Frank's and the Odeon.
 
DuPar's puddingy French toast with melted butter
and powdered sugar is, of course, in a class 
by itself.
 
For American breakfast, John O' Groats
on the westside has good  pancakes,
smoked pork chops, baking-powder biscuits;
Marston's in Pasadena has epochal corn-flake-
encrusted French toast and the best blueberry
pancakes in town. Campanile's breakfast
extravaganzas on weekend mornings--the country's
best sweet rolls and croissants, home-cured 
gravlax, homemade pork sausage, egg pie--are 
amazing, if Industry-infected.
 
Kokomo, in the Farmer's Market, has good
breakfasts too, largely New Orleans-style
egg dishes, though I can never get past the
amazing grilled-cheese sandwich with chiles
there (or the stupendous plain cake donuts
at Bob's across the market).
 
As for Mexican chains--I never go to the 
healthy-Mex places, though I find Poquito Mas
marginally better than La Salsa, and I think 
the tacos al pastor at the decidedly unhealthy
King Taco chain are just swell. (I've got at least
a hundred mom 'n' pop taco stands I could
recommend, none of them on the westside--I
estimate there are something like 15,000 Mexican 
restaurants in the metro area.) 
 
Senor Fish
is good for grungy Mexican seafood, scallop
burritos and fish tacos and gooey seafood 
quesadillas, also surprisingly good grilled fish,
sopa de siete mares, and wonderful octopus
tostadas with avocado. Boca del Rio and Mi
Ranchito rock the Veracruz-style seafood; the
inevitable La Serenata de Garibaldi does 
DF-style fish. And I recommend Border Grill
in the highest possible terms--the cooking is 
fine, and the quality of product far surpasses
what's available outside the swank-restaurant
circuit.
 
</content>
      <published_at>Fri Feb 13 15:32:46 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233115</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>10</level>
      <id>233117</id>
      <content>Thanks for the tips.  The depth of your knowledge of LA eating is truely amazing.  You should write a book!  As far as I can tell there are no decent LA ethnic/good food guides out there.
Best, 
Barry</content>
      <published_at>Sun Feb 15 18:56:27 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233116</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Barry Strugatz</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>11</level>
      <id>233118</id>
      <content>Thanks for the nice words. There should be a
guide of mine put out by HarperCollins late 
this fall, devoted to the ``real'' restaurants
of Los Angeles. (And just like Jim, I've got to
hole up and finish the damned thing.) I'll be 
sure to let y'all know.
</content>
      <published_at>Mon Feb 16 01:23:58 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233117</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>jonathan gold</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>12</level>
      <id>233119</id>
      <content>"There should be a guide of mine put out by HarperCollins late this fall, devoted to the ``real'' restaurants of Los Angeles. (And just like Jim, I've got to hole up and finish the damned thing"
 

 
Jonathan!!! Don't do it!!! Don't sign!!!!</content>
      <published_at>Tue Feb 17 10:15:36 -0800 1998</published_at>
      <parent_id>233118</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Jim Leff</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>6</level>
      <id>233148</id>
      <content>For Johathan Gold:  I just tried to find out the exact 
location of Tlacolula, with no success.  Directory 
assistance couldn't find a listing.  Is this place 
still in business?  If so, do you know the address or 
approximate location in Koreatown?</content>
      <published_at>Sat Jan 09 16:57:34 -0800 1999</published_at>
      <parent_id>233112</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Tom Armitage</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>3</level>
      <id>233241</id>
      <content>ate at El Tepeyac's last Saturday, 18 Sept.
Been eating there since 1974, it is as great as ever.
Carl</content>
      <published_at>Sat Sep 25 19:19:37 -0700 1999</published_at>
      <parent_id>233106</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>Carl</name>
      </user>
    </post>
    <post>
      <level>4</level>
      <id>233242</id>
      <content>I dream about their machaca burritos.</content>
      <published_at>Sat Sep 25 19:21:40 -0700 1999</published_at>
      <parent_id>233241</parent_id>
      <user>
        <id>0</id>
        <name>barry</name>
      </user>
    </post>
  </posts>
</topic>
