Taipei Taiwan Recs
I will be in the Taipei area for quite a while and am looking for good food recs.
Any cuisines will be good, as I eat everything (or at least will try it).
I know about the Shilin Night Market, so no need to tout that one.
1) I have done DTF for xlb, are there any others that I should try?
2) how about good vegetarian fare?
3) how about any other interesting (and good) places?
4) street food is always fun for me too.
I also love good food finds that are cheap.
oh yeah, specifically looking for goose. I remember one somewher near chung hua san chang (sp?) a long time ago. That was a boiled (?) goose. Also on the lookout for roasted goose like they have in HK. ....excuse me, I'm drooling on my keyboard.
Names, addresses (or directions from landmarks), and the specialty would be appreciated.
Citywayne, I just got back from a 16+ day trip in Taipei and other parts of Taiwan.
What you say is true about Shihlin. Since my trip a year ago, they did expand the covered area of the night market that is food stalls only and included many other vendors that were already on the other side of the market (like by the movie theater). I can see why your wife was mad, I had no idea.
But in reality Shih Lin was terrible to go to especially 2 days after Chinese New Year and when it stopped raining for once. Way too packed and flooded with Japanese, Hong Kong tourists.
Here are some places I went to on this trip:
1) Ningxia Road Night Market - It is said to be the oldest night market in Taipei city, or historically at the very least the origin and starting point of the city. It's nowhere near as big as Shihlin, Keelung etc but they have old style small eats that are very authentic, high quality. I actually had the best oyster omlette here (look for a place called Lai's, 30 years old, from the entrance of the market, keep walking down the main strip until you reach a T-junction then turn right, you'll see it). They proudly use free range eggs for the omlette. Doesn't look like much but it's superb. Also try the "yu bing", it's duck egg yolk, shaved dried pork, encased in a taro dough and deep fried. Very tasty. Another place that specializes in beef dishes, and I had a wicked beef tripe soup, along with a nice sa cha stir fried lamb with hollow stem green veg.
2) If you are into Japanese food (that Japanese people go to eat), somewhere along Zhongshan Bei Lu (Zhongshan North Rd) is a place called Ishin (one heart). It's a place where business folks go unwind after work, or bring clients or Japanese contacts. Husband and wife run place, seats 24. Great authentic Japanese food (no nigiri sushi here). Leave your shoes past the entrance. Also on the same alleyway is a place called Fei Chien Ou (fat front house). I'm told they serve the best bbq eel over rice (unaju) in town, very authentic.
I didn't go but was recommended to go to Tung Hwa street night market, another great place.
3) There's a superb place for Gua Bao in Gonguan (close to MRT station). Roosevelt St 3rd section, 316 lane, #3. It's packed most of the time. Super soft and tasty outer bun (better than the kind served with Peking Duck in the US), and upwards of 5 varieties of fatty pork to choose from. There's a few decent places along this strip of alley, where Taipei University students go eat. Mr Wish nearby is a stall that sells fantastic tea paired with chunks of local fruit. Across from there is a place that specializes in tapioca milk. Crazy drink but the main draw is superb tapioca balls (called frog eggs collides with milk).
5) Boji (bor gei) - it's on the other side of the road where Din Tai Fung (Zhongxiao location) is. This is a HK style cha chaan teng/cafe. It's nowhere near as good as HK but if you crave those flavors I suppose nowhere else will come close (given that many CCTs opened up last 7 years and many went out of business). Da An District, Alley 70, #8 (from DTF, go across the other side of the main road, keep walking for a little bit and you will see it on the right). XO sauce stir fried instant noodles, bor lor bao with butter, HK milk tea, salted fish chicken fried rice, old fire soup of the day, curry fishballs, congee, stir fried noodles, shui gow etc.
6) Jogoya buffet (www.jogoya.com.tw). One of the biggest buffets in town, maybe US$30 ish or less but the variety is sickening. Quality is also very high for what you get.
7) Rao He Street Night Market - mildly touristy, smaller than Shihlin but pretty decent. Their Hu Jiao Bing (pork pepper roasted bun) is way better than the one at Shihlin's. It's near the opposite end of the main gate.
re: K K
Thanks KK. Nice trip report. I will have to try some of your recs.
I agree, Chinese New Year was a 'zoo' here. We went to Di Hua St. right before N.Y. and it was wall to wall people. They had 'tastings' along the street (mostly dried meats and squid, candy, nuts (of all kinds), and melon and pumpkin seeds, ...etc.).
We did go to Rao He Jia also ... and yes it was touristy, ... but what isn't these days?
I am finding more and more good eatery surprises in the basements of some of the department stores. Taipei 101 is a good place to start.
btw, one of the best Hu Jiao Bing I have found is in an alley by Long Shan Temple. Start with your back to the temple, walk through the big 'park' across from the temple towards the big street on the other end. Walk along the left side of the park. Before you get to the big street, you will see a small alley. You will see a bunch of people coming in and out. About 30 yards from the entrance of the alley is the Hu Jiao Bing place. It's more expensive than any I've had in Taipei (NT$ 45 each vs. as low as NT$ 30), but they are huge and delicious. Be careful not to burn your hands, as the juice oouzes out of the bing as you take your first bites.
We just had our 1st 'nice' day since a month ago. Sun out, no rain, no wind, high 60's.
Taipei 101's Japanese bakery Flavorfield located right above the food court level, offers arguably the best Japanese style European bread I've ever had. Even their chocolate ponti is way better than Mr Donut or Dunkin Donuts. They had tons of free samples went I went.
Lir Hua Night Market in the city of Yong Ho is pretty decent for a neighborhood non touristy place. One stall does an excellent version of Tu Tuo Yu Gunh, a fried fish "puff" in thick daikon based rich broth. This is something you might want to try at Ningxia night market. The puff almost tastes like chicken. There's also a restaurant on the strip that has a ton of small dishes, and very crowded at night, from pork intestines to shark belly, to pork cheek meat. Simple food that locals eat, and quite delicious.
If you still in Taipei, here are a few places I liked the last time I visited:
I don't know if you've tried all the restaurants in Yong Kang Jie, but one of my favorites is called Lyu-Sang (?). If you walk down Yong Kang Jie, past Ice Monster, it is a two-story restaurant facing the small park. I actually found a link that shows the store front:
Someone can correct me, but I think it specializes in cuisine from I-Lan.
There is also a Hu-jiao bing stall right across from Ice Monster that isn't bad. My dad prefers the Hu-jiao bing at a place in Danshui (which is nice if it's not too crazy hot). His directions: 'it's a store facing the small plaza with a statue.' Amazingly we still found it, but I bet if you ask around, locals would know what you're talking about.
Lastly, my favorite beef noodle soup is located near the Ximending MRT station. I found the directions posted online on Tripadvisor (credit to calicocat):
No. 15 Taoyuan St., Taipei 台北市桃源街15號 (near MRT Ximen Station Exits 3 & 4
)Official name: "Lao Wang Ji Niu Ro Mien Da Wang" (Old Wang Beef Noodle King). It's a 2-story shop, kitchen outside by the sidewalk.
Directions: If walking down Baoqing Rd., turn left onto Taoyuan St., and it will be on your right. Walking down Hengyang Rd., turn right onto Taoyuan St., and it will be on your left.
Closed every second Sunday of the month.
I like the "hong sao" (spicy beefy kind), but they also serve beef noodle soup with clear broth if that's what you prefer.
This is making me hungry...
I will have to go back to Yong Kang Jie and try this.
We were there a few weeks ago and had xiao long bao's at a place about 1 block in, on the left side of the street. It has an open area where there were 3 or 4 chefs making baos of all types (sorry did not catch the name). The pork xlb were as good if not better than Ding Tai Fung and a bit (not by much) cheaper. I believe that it was 130 NT for 10 pork baos. The crab were 260NT for 10 crab, but I think that dtf's crab had a better flavor (more crab roe taste). We also had some pork baos (big steamed ones) and red bean baos, as well as hot sour soup (which was good). We did not get the nice ambiance of dtf, but we also did not have to wait in the line (we actually walked past dtf to get to this place).
re: K K
This reply to your post is coming a few months late, but in case you are still wondering: I live in Tien Mu and we've recently been up to Shann Garden a couple of times. It's a beautiful spot (we go cycling up there often) and worth a visit, but in typical Taiwanese fashion it has gotten a little run down. We ate there in February for my in-laws anniversary, and we had a seat next to some broken windows and a leak in the roof. That said, it's a fun, Mongolian barbecue/raw bar/sushi/buffet-style place that we like. It is by no means strictly vegetarian.
Beef noodle soup on Yungkang St. followed by shaved ice dessert at Ice Monster:
Teppanyaki at New Hama.
I just thought of something. When I lived in Taiwan, my absolute favorite store was Daiichi Department store. Go and check out the cool kitchen gadgets. We picked up a great tabletop oven (sort of a large glass bowl wwith a heating elemnt and fan on the lid). I have seen similar ovens int eh US, but no comparison on quality. Not exactly a food req, but definitely worth a visit.
oooooohhhh... Can I cook a pizza and maybe roast a chicken in it? Where is Daiichi Dept. Store. What was the approx. price?
I did see a BBQ grill in a local store, but am apprehensive in using inside (even with a fairly good exhaust fan). It's also messy with the charcoal (burnt wood chunks), ...etc.
Well, it has been awhile, but try to get to people's Restaurant. Awesome food. Very cool design as well. I had some short ribs there that i still dream about.
Agreed on the street markets. Shihlin was a really good one. In my 3+ years in Taiwan, i unfortunately never/seldom ate in a high end restaurant. I have been wondering what the trends are these days.
Westy, I am not familiar with a People's Restaurant. What type of cuisine is it. also give me some directions, an address, or a phone number if you have it. Directions from an MRT stop are usually the most helpful.
IMO, I have found that there is a trend towards high end western (steaks and beef) and Japanese food in the restaurants (as well as restauarants in malls like Taipei 101). The trend towards Italian pasta and pizza continues. There are a lot of pastry shops and coffee shops popping up also. There, of course are the ever present Starbucks. There is also a competitor chain that I've noticed, Cafe 85 degrees (I think that's the name). They have some pretty looking (and good tasting) cakes, cheese cakes and fancy desserts. There also seems to be an interest in Hakka food (if you use the TV travel as a guage). In the food courts (where I like to lurk) the trend is towards Korean BBQ and Vietnamese Pho noodles these days. I haven't been to enough night markets yet to pick up on any trends. Other than Shih Lin, as I said, most vendors had the same 5 or 6 dishes. This is a one visit sample, so it might not be accurate, as it was a weekday night, not a weekend, when I am sure more vendors are open. I will give updates as I get to the other night markets.
It's behind the Far Eastern Hotel (i.e. enter Far Eastern on Dun Hwa road and walk through).
Also check out the noodle shop across from the US Consulate (and a bit to the left. It's allegedly a Sichuan place. There was a papaya milk stand in the doorway. I particularly liked the hong shao niu rou mian and the version with wanton.
If you're talking about the fried pork chop on rice with sour vegetables, I am having a hard time finding even the pork chop part of that this trip. Taiwan seems to be a very 'trendy' place when it comes to eateries. Once something loses favor, it sorta disappears. You used to find pork chop noodles (pai gu mein) and pork chop rice on every street corner. Once something becomes 'in', you see it in every food court and night market. Go figure. In any case, I was looking for some fried pork chops the other day and the closest I could find were some non-breaded ones that they dyed red before deep frying. That was not what I was looking for. ... the search goes on.
Next month when I go home, I would like to try this place called 君悅排骨Jun Yueh Pai Gu (I heard their Pork Chop is good and their Spring Rolls too but I have yet to confirm.) You can check their website at:
In case you can't read the website, here are a couple of their locations:
a) 台北市仁愛路四段447號1樓 Jenai Road, Section 4, Number 447, 1st Floor, Taipei (probably near Sun-Yet-Sen's Memorial
)b) 台北市衡陽路37號 (Heng Yang Road, Number 37, Taipei, near 228 Memorial Park downtown)
Another Pork Chop place I went last year is 東一排骨 "Dong Yi Pai Gu" (East One Pork Ribs). I liked their pork chops but the day I went, they used frozen veggies (maybe during typhoon season when fresh veggie prices spike?) as one of their side dishes, which I didnt' like so much. Otherwise, the pork chop was pretty delicious. This restaurant looks a little like a Western Diner but food was definitely authentic Chinese. The waitstaff were mostly middle-age ladies/"moms" who were very friendly. Address = 台北市延平南路61號2F / Yen Ping South Road, Number 61, 2nd Floor, in Taipei). You can look at a few photos from folks' blogs about this restaurant:
To some degree, it depends where you will be living in Taipei. Here are four singing joints (including vegetarian) that I found during my five week return visit in 2005. They are all still humming today. Can't wait to get back:
FANG NIU BANG
Means the kids who were sent to the bad class! i.e. since you don't want to study, go mind the cattle, Numbnuts.
Shi Min Da Dao, Section 4, #183
Between Dun Hua Nan Lu and Yen Ji Jie.
Serves Taiwanese food. Set up just like your ordinary Taiwan junior high school. Certainly worth a visit. Can't remember what I ate there. I was a bit tipsy and with a local junior high school dropout in green knee-highs and black boots. Enough said.
(Song as in Song Dynasty and Chu as in Kitchen)
Zhong Xiao Dong Lu, Section 5, Alley 15, No. 14
To-die-for Peking Duck. Better than the heavy, oily wobbler they serve in Beijing. Claims lineage actually to the old Beijing Duck houses. I believe them. Met a junior high school student there.
SHAN YUAN TANG SU SHI GUAN
(meaning: Virtue, Fate, Hall, Vegetables, Eat, Building)
He Ping Dong Lu, Section 2, #145
Not far from the Chinese Cultural University's Adult Extension School where I brushed up on my bad Mandarin and hung around with junior high students. Reminded me of the old vegetarian place I used to visit near Shi Da in the 1980's. Excellent vegetarian fare. Laid back. Some 25--35 dishes are presented daily, of which 5-10 dishes change daily. Too many to try to remember. You pay by the weight. I wake up in the middle of the night here dreaming about this spot. Great place to pick up oh I already said that.
Sorry. I said four and delivered only three. Here's the other one although I am sure everyone has their own favorite Niu Rou Mian (Beef Noodle Soup) joint. Here was mine in the summer of 2005. It was a very good year.
Xiao Le Tian Fan Zi Guan
Zhong Xiao Dong Lu, Section 5, #151
Mr. Chen Jianhua, Owner
No need to cross town to get here unless you are famished for Beef Noodle Soup and your hood doesn't have any . If you are winsome, decent looking and speak a spattering of Mandarin, maybe Mr. Chen will crack open open a bottle of Taiwan Pijiu (on the house) and drink to your health and mine.
I hope you can read Chinese and speak some Mandarin...
I'm going back there again right before Chinese New Year, so hopefully will have some new reports. I was last there earlier in January.
This is a brilliant "Beijing style" yakiniku that models a lot more towards Japanese. You basically get the most enjoyment by sitting down at the bar, you have your own personal charcoal grill. Must eats are beef tongue slices with tons of green onions. No dipping sauce, everything is premarinated so all you need are lemon wedges to squeeze juice over. Free refills on rice and tea. I believe cash only. Nearby is a very hip competitor izakaya called Ganbei (aka Kanpai) that a lot of local celebs go to as well.
If you can read Chinese, also head over to any local 7-Eleven or convenience store. Go to the magazine rack. There are local publications showcasing the latest trends and hippest restaurants. Less than US$3 for a wealth of info (most of the places are in Taipei).
Shihlin Night Market is fantastic for a lot of street food. Take the MRT and get off the JienTan station. Cross the street and you're there. Go after 5 pm but generally the later the better. Don't miss the shen jian bao vendors near the Yang Ming movie theater (two vendors, go to the one with the blue themed sign). Ay Chung Mien Sien now has a branch at Shihlin, this oyster-less noodle is superb with self help garlic sauce (get a small bowl). Fuzhou Hujiao bing (baked pork bun with a buttload of pepper in it, spicy and really hearty) is also supreme. The taiwanese style fried chicken filet is very famous here too, make sure you look for the vendor outside the Yang Ming movie theater (the one with the long long long lines, not its competitor nearby).
The ULTIMATE street food experience? Take a cab and spend about NT$1000 or roughly US$30 one way from Taipei to KEELUNG (and ask to go to Keelung Miao Kao). Before you get into a cab, make sure the cabbies will take you to Keelung, some won't (and vice versa when you leave). Keelung has 200 food stalls on the main strip, and more off there. Not to be missed, ding bing dsol (www.100wu.com.tw), minced pork over rice, oyster pancake, fried chicken roll, Keelung sandwich where they ahem deep fry the bread, sashimi (common fish but all local off Keelung's ports), pig feet/pig's knuckle. Too much to enjoy in a short time though.
re: K K
Thanks for the recs KK. I have been to Keelung and Shihlin (in the past, not the new one). So I can make my way back there (always worthwhile going to). I will have to try some of your picks. As you point out, some of the markets are huge and you have to do this over a few visits. Have a good time on your visit in Jan/Feb.
I've been to Shihlin 3 times, in 2002, 2005, and 2007. Earlier this year they say Shihlin moved but to me it was still in the same location.
Shihlin now has a branch of Keelung's famous 3 brothers Tofu Fa dessert shop. But it's nowhere near as good. When in Keelung, Sahm Shung Di is still a favorite stop of mine.
I want to try Raohe night market this time when I go back.
Another tip, if you make it to Taipei 101, go to Page One bookstore (a chain of a big name from Hong Kong). If you can read Chinese find the travel guide books section. There should be some on Keelung night market (a guide) alone. A wealth of info for you to peruse and/or buy.
On the way to Keelung is one lesser known night market, but gets insanely packed on the weekends. Take a cab to Shenkiang (sounds like shun kun). Extremely famous for stinky tofu (signature item there). Not many stalls, but the key ones are right next to the temple. Get the fried tofu cubes (pepper and salt with dipping sauce) and the tofu soup. Hakka Taiwanese mochi rice cake buns are supposedly famous there too (ngeh bahn), preserved veg, shredded daikon, ground pork, maybe mushrooms. You need to try this once. Aquired taste for some but it's unique.
Another must visit tourist place is Jioufen. Also very out of the way, but a few nice eats there. Pineapple cake (feng li su) is very famous and some "salty" pastries that must be consumed in a few days (perishable and no preservatives).
Another favorite place of mine is if you take the MRT to Xin Dian, then get a cab to Wu Lai. There's an "old village" before you reach the spa and warm spring resorts. It's native indigenous Indians (the REAL Taiwanese) and their cooking. Mountain vegetables (chuan chi, su cai), stir fried small river shrimp, bamboo shoot soup (insanely good), mi fen, roasted wild boar (smells superb, never tried it though). And many more.
re: K K
We went to Shihlin Night food market for a quick dinner on the way home. It was rather disappointing. It is a huge market, but everyone seems to have one of 5 or 6 items. We had the oyster omlet which was ubiquitous (and good as usual) but was a little sparse with the oysters. The shen jian bao (my wife thinks it is a shao jian bao) which was good. The da bing bao shao bing (look for the vendor in the middle/front of the food market). Get the one with peanuts. And finally the fried chickent cutlet. However, I took your advice and went to the one by the theater after passing by the one with the long line in the front of the food market. It turns out that the one in front of the theater has opened another stand inside the food market, so you don't have to run the 3 blocks. We did run the 3 blocks and it was worth it, although my wife told me to let you know that she is peeved at making an unnecessary trip back and forth (we got back on the MTR). There were a few more stands that I need to get to on our next outing to Shilin night market ... but will probably try the street food rather than focus on the food court.
Oh by the way, we went to Ximending and had lunch at a goose place. It's been in that area for over 30 years. A plate of (boiled?) goose and a couple of bowls of rice noodles... yum.... It is on Zhonghua Rd, west side of the street, about 2 blocks north of the MTR (Ximen station). Sorry I don't know the name. oh, they also had duck ... but this was a goose day. :-)
LOL at your wife. Treat the unnecessity as exercise, after all you gain more calories eating at night markets, what's wrong with walking it off? :-)
Shen Jian Bao and Shui Jian Bao are synonymous with another at least my impression of it. It's a lot more enjoyable when you use their chili sauce (makes them taste a million times better). Note that the info I gave you was from 2005 about the fried chicken cutlet in front of the movie theater (which WAS the only stall at the time). I did not eat that in 2007 of this year, and of course things change a lot.
And another thing, walking around Shihlin will tire you out. Somewhere closer to the side of Jien Tan MRT is a foot/leg massage specialist going by a famous name of Lee Bing Huei. The foot/leg massage is painful as they are really deep but if your feet are sore from walking it supposedly does wonders (no pain no game).
I didn't eat oyster omlette at Shihlin, although near one of the mini temples is a stall that sells er-a mi sua (oyster noodle) that was quite decent (though I had better elsewhere). The best oyster omlette is still at Keelung, right across the entrance of the temple.
I didn't keep the copy of the tabloid magazine earlier this year but Taipei has at least 4 Hong Kong style cafe's aka cha chaan teng. One of them might be Macanese themed.
The address for Ganbei Bar is Taipei Dunhua Rd 1st section 169 alley #5.
I really enjoyed Wasabi buffet at Taipei 101. If you're used to BS like Todai in the US, then Wasabi will be extremely refreshing. Roughly US$30 equivalent per person but the food is superb. Then again have this soon because once you get used to Taipei food, Wasabi won't be anything special.
I only ate at Ximending once in 2005. A 40 year old beef noodle soup (knife shave noodles) shop, in the basement of this shopping arcade building. In that basement was also a place famous for pai gu (pork chops) but didn't go in.
There are places in Taipei that serve Cantonese dim sum 24 hours. My bro in law there says avoid them like the plague, terrible.
I'll update this space after the trip in February, hopefully will be going to some new places to try.
re: K K
I'll have to try the oyster noodle. I've had them without the oysters (packages in the states). I am looking forward to the real thing. We had our fill of dim sum (the good stuff) in Hong Kong a few weeks ago. The stuff in Taiwan is overpriced and (I agree with your BIL) terrible. After all you don't go to North Dakota for gumbo. :-)
Although I have been living in the US for a long time, Taipei is my hometown and I go there about 2 to 3 times a year. I thought I will recommend a few places to you.
The Goose Place is called 鴨肉扁 "Yah Rou Bien" in Mandarin or "Ah Bah Bee" in Taiwanese (name means = Duck Meat Flat) although they seem to sell geese instead of ducks. I like their noodle soup too but thought their goose was a little tough when I visited a few years ago (maybe I went on a bad day). It's been there a long time... back when Ximending was the only "downtown" in Taipei.
If you are in Ximending again, one place I would recommend is a little snack shop called 老天祿 (Lao Tien Lu) on Chendu Road. It's a little snack shop / deli that sells boiled meats and tofu etc. There are two stores in Ximending but I believe the original is on Chendu Road (Address = 台北市萬華區成都路56號, 56 Chendu Road, Taipei).
Not sure if you read Chinese but here is their website:
I don't know how adventurous you are.. but their speciality is "crunchy duck intestine" and "duck tongue". Duck Wings, Chicken Wings, boiled tofu and Pig's Blood Cakes (if you are adventurous) are also good. If you buy the boiled snacks (lu wei), you should try to consume everything you buy as soon as you can because they are not refrigerated in the store (that's the way they are sold in Taiwan). This place also specializes in old-school Shanghainese cakes and snacks such as walnut cake, Shanghainese mooncakes and other sweets... you can check out what they have on their shelves. It's definitely an acquired taste but those snacks seem "authentic" to me, although I have never been to Shanghai.. haha.
Another place in Taipei I recommend is a noodle/rice shop called 金峰滷肉飯 "Jin Fung Lu Rou Fan" (Jin Fung Cooked Pork Rice) near Chiang-Kai- Shek Memorial Hall (now called Taiwan Liberty Hall?). It's on Roosevelt Road near Nan-Men (South Gate) Market. They serve pretty good Taiwanese/Fujianese street food such as Pork, Veggie &Seafood Rice Noodle Soup (鼎邊趖) and 滷肉飯 ("Lu Rou Fan" - Pork Sauce over rice).
Again, the following link is in Chinese but you can see what their food looks like by checking out the photos:
Address = 台北市羅斯福路1段10號之1
Roosevelt Road Section1, Number 10-1, Taipei
Hello! I went to Slack Season Tan Tsi Noodles - excellent and cheap food. They don't have a website or an English menu, so Google it. In fact, I ate there twice in 4 days! The noodles with their special sauce is amazing, and you can also buy the special sauce to take home in tins. Let me know if you come across any good places you can recommend when you're there!
Helen Yuet Ling Pang
re: foodie guide
Helen, I went and tried the SSTT Noodles as you suggested. They were very good. I had an order of fried oysters and a side of tofu also. The prices (for non-locals) is very good. The ambience and service was excellent also. The dishes are much like any of the local noodle stands in and about Taiwan. Although I think this establishment had a more subtler flavor to the sauce. I have had plenty of these types of noodles where the meat sauce is a bit heavier and rustic. For the price this was excellent. I do find that (after reading your WFG posts) you are what I would call a 'high end' diner. For locals I think that these are rather pricy noodles (as compared to neighborhood eateries)... but for this upscale neighborhood, this was about par (in price). Thanks for the rec. I enjoyed it (especially the oysters, which are one of my favorite foods).
re: foodie guide
re: foodie guide
I was digging around the site to find out who reviewed this place and mentioned it first.
So almost 2 years after you write this, we finally stumbled upon this place, Tu Hsiao Yueh Dan Jai Mien (or Slack Season Tainan Peddler Noodles). We've seen mention of this place (but forgot about the writeup) on Taiwan Cable TV.
There are I believe 5 locations across Taiwan, with the flagship store in Tainan. This place is definitely a culinary treasure and represents a key piece of history. The story behind it is just fascinating. The business has passed to the 4th generation of the Hung family and they've seemingly re-created the makeshift squatting level noodle prepping/cooking station.
Here's a flip digital video clip I took of the chef in action
Also, the website states that the rou zou (minced meat) in the can the restaurant sells, is not the kind made in the store but sold by a local vendor for export within Taiwan and outside.
The noodle soup stock is made entirely from shrimp (without the heads).
NT$50 for a bowl is not expensive to foreign vistors, and for a place that offers almost Japanese kaiseki like dining visuals and settings (the Yong Kang Jie location where Din Tai Fung flagshop restaurant is around the corner), it is a bargain.
Grilled milkfish belly is fantastic
So is the rou zou (minced pork, almost to the consistency of a puff) over rice is wonderful.
Their steamed egg custard (chawanmushi) easily surpasses many top Japanese restaurants in Northern California and you can taste the konbu dashi broth. So smooth.
I remember reading somewhere that there was a local celebrity from Tainan who was so pleased and hungry that he ate 18 bowls of the noodles. It really is a light bite. Even the 3rd generation owner said that you should be eating it with ALL your senses.
For a more intimate st food experience (since Shilin is like a huge, sprawling market), try Raohe night market, your concierge or a normal map should be able to tell u where it is. It's a shorter street, but has heaps of good eats, i personally love "da chang bao xiao chang" (literal transl: big sausage wrapped around small sausage) which is basically a hotdog style ssnack, except instead of a hotdog bun, it's a 'sausage' shaped glutinous rice patty. very fun!
Hey e ting, can you give me a hint as to where Raohe night market is? What section of town or give me a landmark or subway stop. You have my mouth watering. Thanks.
p.s. never mind I just found it on my map. A bit northwest of the City hall subway stop. Thanks ... will be getting over there soon.