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Death by feijoada crawl part 2 – Nino's Pizzeria and Brazilian Restaurant

rworange Nov 11, 2007 06:39 PM

Nino’s version is fragrant with bay leaves and salty with some bacon notes.

It was mainly rich, slightly soupy black beans. Most of the meat was soft pieces of pie de porco (skin from long-stewed pork trotters)

There was one cute triangular piece of pig’s ear It has the same soft, gelatinous texture as pigs feet and I gleefully sucked the on the bones (sorry, Babe and Porky)

The rest of the pork was probably small pieces of carne de porco (pork loin). It wasn’t as full of flavor as the hunks of pork loin at 25 West It may have been the bad luck of the draw, but there wasn’t any sausage in my serving.

The farofa had little pieces of bacon which is where that flavor might be from.

There was an excellent chiffonade of bright green collard greens flecked with lots of diced garlic which added that flavor to the dish. The greens glistened with fat which I assume from the taste might be butter.

It was interesting how the sides added notes to this dish. It was like the beans were the canvas with the farofa and collards completing the picture.

There was no orange with the dish, so I provided my own which relived some of the saltiness.

Unlike the other two versions I tried, there was no salad either.

From the menu …

Feijoada - $12.95
Black bean stew with pork sausage, served with collard greens and farofa.

Seriously … there was no sausage. It was a large amount of food – two containers. The beans were in a small lasagna pan. The other container had lots of rice, the collards and farofa

I enjoyed it but it wasn’t in the same class as the version from 25 West.

At Nino’s I thought it was a good meal, but I probably wouldn’t order it again and would try some of the other dishes on the menu. Moranga - Baked acorn squash, shrimp, tomato-cream cheese sauce over rice is supposed to be good.

At 25 West … I’ll be back … and it will be hard to try the other Brazilian dishes because the feijoada was so good.

How to eat Brazilian feijoada

Death by feijoada crawl part 1 – 25 West Brazil Restaurant … mercy !!!

Previous Nino’s reports (note Sabor Brazil mentioned in the first link has closed

  1. twocents Nov 11, 2007 08:27 PM

    On two visits about a year ago, my experience was similar to yours. I was coming off a very nice version in Manhattan- Ipanema Grill or something like that, as well as a good one in SF, Canto do Brasil, I think. I would go back to Nino's if the mood struck, but it definitely was not the gold standard. I was under the impression that it is available every evening, but I am not sure.

    The other Brasilian dishes that I tried (2-3 chicken and shrimp, but not the squash you mention) did not impress, but were also not terrible.

    1. rworange Nov 11, 2007 06:42 PM

      Forgot the link

      Nino's Pizzeria & Brazilian Restaurant
      1916 Martin Luther King Jr Way, Berkeley, CA 94704

      1 Reply
      1. re: rworange
        buster Nov 11, 2007 07:57 PM

        for a "civilized" version, try Cafe Rio in Oakland's Preservation Park, only on Wednesday special. Always has some sausage, never any pig's ear, for us quesy types.

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