cheap eats in Buenos Aires

[mchan02]

A quick search on the boards didn't come up with what I"m really looking for. Cheap, authentic lunch spots- not touristy. A great place to get a steak (and another to get fish) without breaking the bank? The best empanadas? the best alfajores? Great, affordable asado? A delicious and cheap steak sandwich?

I'll be in BA for the first time with a friend for 2 weeks, so we'll have many many meals to eat :) We're staying in Palermo. I'd like some recommendations for Palermo, Recoleta, San Telmo, and neighboring areas.

We're also looking to do some grocery shopping and make our own breakfasts. Any grocery store recommendations in Palermo? Thank so much!

[Casa SaltShaker]

Here's the thing - those kind of places exist all over the city - every neighborhood has its little local spots. But the one thing that you might want to look at if you don't want "touristy" is to look at non-touristy neighborhoods - the three you named are the highest concentrations of tourists here, and, simply, even local spots make at least some effort to cater to them. There are also grocery stores all over the place, but, you'll do better if you just hit the little local fruit/vegetable stands and butcher shops.

In terms of "best" it's always subjective - empanadas, depends on the style you want - it's more of that there are multiple regional differences, and there are places here that represent a whole lot of them. Personal favorite, La Cocina, for catamarquena empanadas, at Pueyrredon and Arenales in Barrio Norte. Alfajores - not something I care for - too sweet for me, but most local pastry shops have their own versions, and you'll find them everywhere. Cheap steaks - try Des Nivel in San Telmo, Pichi Huasi in Barrio Norte, or any of a dozen spots along places like Dorrego or Godoy Cruz in Palermo. Fish - not so much here, and it's pricey. It's not part of the local culture, and it has to be brought in from long distances - you'll find it, but with the exception of a few places specializing in Mediterranean seafood dishes, you're not going to find much of interest. One spot that specializes in local river fish is Jangada, but it's not cheap. Asado, technically, is a backyard bbq, so you pretty much need to get yourself invited to one at someone's house - but assuming you mean parrillada - a mixed grill at a parrilla, or steakhouse - same places as the steaks above - El Yugo in Recoleta puts out a really nice one. Best steak sandwich I've found in the city - Rodi Bar in Recoleta.

Of course, all of this is subject to what you think is "cheap" - by local standards, some of these places are pretty expensive, but that may just mean 25-30 pesos for lunch - less than $10, which may not be by yours.