Rome and Naples Honeymoon Review
We are back from our honeymoon and it was absolutely wonderful! Most of our meals were amazing and we even had a few disasters thrown in for good measure.
Dinner at Pierluigi, Giorgio was as wonderful as always. The food was amazing, especially the Bresaola della valtellina and the Tagliolini ai fiori di zucca. This is still one of my favorite restaurants in Rome.
2nd Day was dinner at Armand al Pantheon, wonderful dinner! The carbonara was fantastic and the lamb was excellent. Our last very good meal for several days as we traveled to Naples the next morning.
Naples.....oh, what do I have to say about Napoli! Dirty, smelly, loud, chaotic, rude people, rude waiters, several bad meals. Our first dinner in Naples was at a Chinese place of all things, but my wife wanted to try it. I have to admit, it was rather good but not as good as the Chinese we had in Florence several years ago (the best chinese we both agree we have ever had, and my wife is from Seattle). We followed this up with a miserable meal the following night at a very crowded and local Trattoria Nennelle. It was crowded the night before when we walked past with people standing in the street waiting for a table. We returned the next night to give it a shot and again, it was crowded, loud and chaotic. We were greeted with open stares, rude service, no menus and the wrong primi pasta. After this, we paid our bill (10 euros) and left. I would not go back. For lunch the next day we ate at Da Ciro Pizzarria. Excellent soups, as I had a white bean soup and my wife had an egg soup with bread. Both were amazing. My pizza was fantastic (proscuitto) but my wife's carbonara was too eggy and not very appetizing. We departed the next day for Capri.
Capri - What can I say, both meals at La Capaninno. Fantastic food, fantastic service. The proscuitto and melon was the best I have ever had. Very expensive but very worth it!
Back to Rome again.
La Fiammetta - Rome Addict was right! Very inexpensive, service was a little bohemian but the food was very good. The eggplant parmigiana was the best I have ever had (I seem to be saying this alot) and I hate eggplant.
This was followed up the next night with dinner at Il Convivio. I was surprised at the service but the food was exceptional. I recommend the lamb done 4 ways and the homemade raviolo.
I cancelled our reservations at Checchino dal 1887 to go to Sora Margreta (sp). Sora was absolutely amazing. I had to join a club to eat there (its free) but it was well worth it! There was no menu, just what they served us and it was very good. The artichokes were exemplary (see, I too can use a thesaurus!) and I still have visions of them dancing in my head. The oxtails were very good as well, I managed to branch out and try this to very happy results.
Our final night was again Pierluigi for our final meal with Giorgio. I had the Insalata di mare con rughetta which is again a reach for me but it was wonderful. For a pasta, we shared a special pasta which Giorgio had made specially for us. It was oricchiette pasta with eggplant, a light tomato sauce with large chunks of tomato and fried zuchinni (sp). Very light and satisfying. For a secundi, Angie had a grilled steak with a balsamic vinegar sauce and I had veal with green peppercorns. Both were excellent.
Let me know if I can answer any more questions. Also, next to Hotel Genio, there is a wonderful Sicilian Icecream/Gelatto shop. I highly, highly recommend stopping in a sampling heavily!
See...I feared stoning when I suggested you skip overnights in Naples & stay on Capri because I prefer good ole Napoli as a day-trip. Capri is simply sublime. Rome reminds me of NYC in some ways, Naples reminds me of an insane asylum.
So glad you enjoyed my latest crave dish, eggplant parmigiana at Fiammetta. It is the best in Rome, in my opinion. So, favorite in Rome for you is still Pierluigi? Have they finished road construction in front?
Congratulations again on your marriage. Thanks for the report; look forward to more.
Our favorite is still Pierluigi but this is due more to Giorgio than the food, although the food is very good. They had finished the road construction and we were able to enjoy a wonderful al fresco dinner the first night. The last night we got to experience some excitement as a drunk driver wrecked into several parked cars down the road. Most of the Romans were "ehhh...it happens." We managed to rubberneck heavily.
Your suggestion of Capri instead of Napoli was correct and my wife was especially bothered at seeing a gypsy man beating a young gypsy boy at one of the train stations as the Circumvesuvianum train pulled out of the station.
When we head back next year, I will post again but until then, I will mostly lurk or post on the South boards for Atlanta.
Thanks for the report. I was waiting for you to get back. We are going next week. Was curious about La Fiammetta - sounds like more of a casual pizza place in the US. I am not going to try the eggplant parm.
Happy to hear the construction was finished at Pierluigi - we are going there also.
THANKS AGAIN for the report.
Is this the place you loved in Capri:
We're going for a wedding in July, so I'm starting to search!! We'll only be there a couple of days, and the evenings are booked up with party one night, wedding the next night, but I'm sure we'll be looking for good places to eat!