London Itinerary - please critique ....
- osho Nov 2, 2007 10:46 AM
The wife and I will be in London for 6 days around Thanksgiving - from San Francisco. I would really appreciate suggestions and constructive criticism from fellow 'hounds from across the pond.
Here is what I have on the itinerary - so far:
Breakfast places around Swiss Cottage:
Chamomile, Violette, Del Aziz
Taiwan Village - Sichuan and Taiwanese - 85 Lillie Road, Fulham, London SW6 1UD
Mango Room - 10 Kentish Town Road, Camden Town NW1 9NX
Red Pepper - 123 Holloway Road Islington, N7 8CT
Bamboula - 12 Acre Lane SW2 5SG Brixton
New Tayyab - 83 Fieldgate St Whitechapel E1 1JU
Lahore Kabab House - 2 Umberston Rd, Whitechapel E1 1PY
Rasa Samudra - 5 Charlotte Street, W1T 1RE, Fitzrovia
Sabras - 263 High Road, Willesden NW10 2RX
The Only Running Footman - 5 Charles Street, Mayfair W1J 5DF
(I've eaten at The House before)
Fish and Chips:
Rock and Sole Plaice - 47 Endell Street, Covent Garden WC2H 9AJ - MAIN
I gather they have a branch location - right off Finchley Road.
Faulkners (Is this place still good?)
Golden Hind - 73 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PN
Massis -28 James Street, W1U 1EW (Near Bond St tube)
Maroush - 38 Beauchamp Place SW3 1NU
Ishbilia - 9 William Street Hyde Park SW1X 9HL (Near Knightsbridge tube)
This is probably one of the more interesting lists I've seen!
I am useless though because I've only been to Tayyabs, Golden Hind, and Maroush. I'd say Tayyabs and GH are a yes (and both are BYOB!)...Maroush is good. Don't get me wrong, I love my Edgware Road fix. But it may not be worth going out of your way for.
Only Running Footman--you may have seen me mention it a few times. I love The House so I'm dying to try it but I have no idea what it's like.
You know, Rock and Sole plaice is nice when you get to sit down on the tables outside --- but it's INCREDIBLY overpriced for the quantity and quality of food if you do so. I almost think it may be better to get it at a dodgy sort of place, for the real thing and real experience (and better prices!). There is the delightfully named fish n chips place, Fryer's Delight, off High Holborn.
Try Noura for Lebanese food. Best Lebanese food I've had so far -- www.noura.co.uk , had nothing at all close to it when I lived in the Bay Area. As for Chinese, I don't think the Bay Area can be beat!!!
Walk down Brick Lane for the Indian food experience. It's a lot of fun.
if you're from san fran, why on earth are you eating chinese here?! but if you must, try snazz sichuan on chalfont street near euston station or bar shu on frith street if you're near piccadilly.
for pakistani, roti and seekh kebabs at new tayyabs cant be beat - but thats all. quilon (buckingham palace gate) for (keralan) lunch any day or the bombay brasserie (off gloucester tube station) for weekend lunch (north indian) buffet can't be beat. or try moti mahal on great queen street for dinner. in any case, avoid rasa samudra or lahore kebab house (with extreme prejudice).
lebanese: hit maroush on beauchamp place or ishbilya on william street (knightsbridge).
Good question, Howler. My idea of great Chinese food was formed at places like China Garden (Kemps Corner), Kamling (Churchgate) - places I was taken to - as a kid - many many eons ago.
I have found nothing like it in the States or even when I lived in the UK, a decade ago. But, what I did discover was that some random places in Chinatown (Soho - Gerrard St) did have some items that resembled some of the food from my distant past ! Hence, the quest for that taste.
Much like your craving for Ripon Club dhansak or scotch Pani Puri at the Willingdon, I suspect. :-)
Also, does the Indian YMCA still serve fabulous food? Whilst on the subject, how about Raavi Kabab House in Camden and Ma Goa in Putney? Any recent reports on these ?
aah yes, the kamlings and nankings of this world. but do you really mean china garden? that was a more sophisticated version of desi chinese and came much later - late 70's, i think. the one at kemps corner in the kamling tradition was the first door on the right as you went down towards gowalia tank, but i cant remember its name. and now i'm probably going to disappoint you, but my very favourite was the golden dragon at the taj. diced lamb in chiili garlic sauce, i weep at the memory.
sadly, i haven't yet eaten at a desi chinese in london but it sounds like dalchini in south wimbledon might come close - did you see the post on these boards recommending it? there is great indian chinese in new york, though, i dig indian oasis tremendously and jim keff has hinted he's found an even better one, so remember to ask if you're coming via nyc.
the indian ymca just has regular student canteen fare - good for what it is, but i wouldn' t go especially out of my way. dunno raavi kebab house, but ma goa is to be avoided with extreme prejudice. quilon for keralan might be the best lunch deal in town - its suddenly gotten very good. you get a baingan bhartha for example that even a konkani house would be proud of.
I probably got the names wrong. It's been so long since I left.
I'm not looking for desi chinese, per se. I just don't know how to explain it. I'll know it when I taste it.
I liked the Golden Dragon too. I can't remember any specific favourites though.
I will have a revised list out - very shortly.
Thanks to everyone for your recommendations and helpful comments.
I'm far from the expert that many of the other regulars are. I live outside London and tend to eat here more often than I do 'up there.' That said, the best Chinese food I ever ate was in SF many years ago, but you might find some interesting choices during a walk through Chinatown... it will seem tiny to you. I agree that both Maroush and Ishbilia are worth choices. A foodie I admire really likes La Bouchéé on Old Brompton Rd., but I haven't gotten there yet. Same goes for the ever-spoken-about gastropub, Anchor & Hope near Waterloo. I use that station often and it's on my list for 'one of those days.' Walk down Brick Lane but I wouldn't eat there - too many other good choices. It's probably my American way of looking at things, but I enjoy the more upscale 'Indian' places like Cinnamon Club and Amaya. I can get regular, great food right here in my town so the atmosphere is a nice change of pace. Have a great trip! P.S. Check out www.london-eating.co.uk. They often have good offers at some very nice restaurants.
Howler seems to prefer Cheyne Walk Brasserie, so maybe that's a better choice. The other was recommended by a NYC friend who has eaten everywhere that's tops in just about every city of interest, but taste is an individual matter. She liked it but then again, she's not from London. Funny, the SF Chinatown place we went to (probably 30 years ago) was recommended by a resident, but heck... he was brought up in NY. :-) It was called Nam Yuan - just a small place but it sticks in my memory.
Yep interesting and well researched (I am assuming) list.
For Indian, I concur with Howler, keep Tayyab but lose Lahore and Rasa. At Tayyab, tandoori options are still up to scratch in my opinion (was last there in May) and also order a chicken tikka roll or two. On the way out, go to the little takeout food counter and buy one or two katlamas, which are like Pakistani cornish pasties for want of a better description. Willesden Lane is worth your while for South Indian, Geetas used to be a favourite place although I haven´t been in a while. If you´re feeling adventurous, jump on the tube to Kingsbury and check out some of the Gujurati options I´ve mentioned in previous posts. I´m guessing you might be staying in Swiss Cottage, if so Eriki on Finchley Road is an option, cut above neighbourhood Indian reflecting some regionality and cooked with a defter and lighter hand than most Indian eateries in London.
For breakfast, you might want to consider the 20 minute walk (from SwissC) into Hampstead Village where Cafe Bianca offers very tasty and old school English breakfast options for non-NW3 prices. Primrose Hill is also only a bus ride away, you could go to Melrose and Morgan deli and get some items to take away (go eat them in Primrose Hill Park if weather is half decent) or try Troika which is a cosy Russian tea room on Regents Park Road.
I would drop the Mango Room, more form than substance in my opinion. For Carribean there is Cottons on Chalk Farm Road although I haven´t been there in a while and then there is more of a cafe style place in the same nabe which I liked a couple of years back, let me try and dig up the name.
Oh another Swiss Cottage rec - Singapore Garden on Fairfax Road, expensive but excellent neighbourhood eatery, I posted about it recently. Stick to the SE Asian part of the menu as well as the specials list.
osho, i would choose from the following (in no particular order): Saki (West Smithfield), Sakana-Tei (Oxford Circus), Edokko (Holborn), Mitsukoshi (Piccadilly Circus), Kiku (Mayfair), Dinings (Edgware Road), Soho Japan (Fitzrovia). None of these places are exclusively sushi bars so there should be plenty of items that appeal to the wife too. Saki and Dinings are more modern both in terms of menu and decor; Sakana-tei, Kiku, Edokko, Mitsukoshi more traditional (and somewhat dated decor); Soho Japan is more izakaya so limited sushi options. If you want to break the bank you might also want to consider Umu which is part sushi bar, part kaiseki, part modern Japanese with an amazing sake collection. Very Mayfair prices though - expect to pay £100 each or more if you go in the evening although there are much more affordable lunchtime deals to be had.
Yes that's right. Other places will set you back considerably less although good sushi is never cheap wherever you're eating it. My own estimation is that the sushi itself is 25-30% more expensive than in Manhattan or LA (I don't know SF sushi scene) but sakes are quite a lot more expensive in London if that's your thing. Most of these places (apart maybe from Dinings) offer lunchtime deals so bear that in mind.
Nobu London I haven't been to in a while but I always ate well there. Personally I preferred the sister restaurant Ubon down in Docklands, much more informal, funky and low key and with great river views if you can land a window table. If Nobu is your thing, then definitely go to Dinings, ex Nobu chef and a lot of the menu is Nobuesque but at a lower price point and in much less sceney surroundings.