Eating out in Trieste
I'm reviving this thread, because I'll be spending a few days in Trieste in June as part of a program. We're not going to have a lot of time off, but I was curious to see what you can recommend. Is there any place worth eating in Opacina, if you take the funicular up?
Most of the earlier postings still look good - continued endorsement for Buffet da Pepi.
Was taken to lunch by a Trieste friend at Tre Merli http://www.tremerli.it on Viale Miramare - it was so good that we went back there the next day again. Looks a bit uninspiring from the outside but food, especially fish, was great. Terrace is directly on sea - a bit windswept this time of year but should be stunning in June.
thanks guys! this thread looks very useful. i'm going there this coming June and will certainly check out some of the places mentioned here
i'm also looking for a place for a hopefully memorable celebration. any there any michelin starred / splurge places in the city worth checking out?
Strong second for Buffet da Pepi.
I visited Trieste about 10 years ago and had a wonderful experience, enjoyed the food and the sights, but for some reason the only dining experience that stands out in my mind is Buffet da Pepi and its pork sampler platter (served on a pig-shaped plate). They also offer fresh horse radish which is fantastic.
I can also recommend the ride up to Opachino (sp?) on the street car/venicular. A fun ride with a great view over the city and out to sea.
One last thing, Proseco is made in the area around Trieste, try it at the source...
Recos in Trieste--Al Bragozzo Riva Nazario Sauro for great fish
Trattoria al Fiori --Piazza Attilio Hortis 7(near main square and family run).
If you want superb food, go to Agli Amici closer to Udine or La Subida in Cormons--two of the better dining experiences I've had in many a trip to Italy!
Sights in Trieste :Miramare Castle and especially a walk in the garden – walk to the Sphinx near the beach;
Piazza Unità d’Italia, the biggest open place facing the sea in Europe with nearby the Opera Teatro Verdi and Corso Italia, a shopping street;
Castle San Giusto, church, lapidarian with epitaph for Mr Winkelmann, “father” of Archaeology;
Drinks & Food
Cafè Illy for the best coffee in town, straight behind the church San Antonio near Piazza San Giovanni; for a drink before dinner, top barman;
Malabar, Piazza San Giovanni: best choice for a local wine tasting; talk to Walter, the owner!
Pirona, Largo Barriera 12: superb little antique coffee shop; for a coffee + dessert
Rex, on the corner Piazza Borsa – Corso Italia: hippest place for a downtown aperitif together with Circus, Via San Lazzaro 9
Chic & expensive: Ristorante Le Vele (for a drink and/or dinner): Viale Miramare, on the corner of crossing to the castle Miramare within a hotel complex
Chic, near to my flat and the best pizza and chicken in town: La Casablanca Riva T. Gulli, 4, Trieste 040 301065 (booking!)
Near the water & nice seafood or just for a drink: Tavernetta al Molo, Port of Grignano (on the coastal road after Miramare tunnel turn down towards the beach);
Same direction, yet turn right when you arrive at the parking; there’s a pedestrian passage passing a sort of tunnel, take the first entrance: Tiki, beach bar; best location for a drink + sunset.
For seafood in a nice, yet modern ambiente: Antica Ghiacceretta, Via dei Fornelli 2 (not far from my appartment); talk to the owner, Bruno
Classic Austrian food and a must place to see once: Buffet da Pepi, near Piazza Borsa in Via Cassa di Risparmio 3: pig, craut, sausages.. let them mix you a plate to taste with a draft beer.
Visit the beaches along the coastal road, turning towards Miramare castle.
I like most the Ginestre, beach with parking halfway to Sistana on the coastal road.
Talk to someone to bring you in a nice Osmiza, place where you can taste local wine terrano (an acid red wine), ham and cheese: Ask or simply go and look for a pine bush branch in Sgonico (north from Trieste), Monrupino (northeast from Trieste).
The hinterland of Trieste is very very nice, yet you might get lost! Take a good map and your identity card in case you must cross the border to Slovenia.
Try to go to Lipica in Slovenia; just a few km from the border to Trieste/Italy – border station is Sezana.
There are the renown Lipizzaner horses, a beautiful golf course! Let Fabio bring you there!!! Talk to the pro Andrej and send him my best regards!
Also try to fix a visit at KANTE, the most famous wine maker in Trieste. Kante is in Località Prepotto 1/A, Duino Aurisina, Phone +39 040 200255 or mobile +39 348 4446808. Talk to Edi Kante, the owner and winemaker, bring him my regards (from Ingrid, the Austrian with the sweet wine).
If you are riding towards Gorizia, north of Trieste in direction Udine (beautiful landscape) try to have lunch at Trattoria Devetak, San Michele del Carso, 48 in Savogna d’Isonzo (closed on Monday and Tuesday).
This place is not far from Gradisca, another tiny little town in Friuli region.
Have fun, Ingrid
Long ago, maybe 15 yrs, I stayed in Trieste for a very enjoyable week. The best restaurant we ate in was about a 15 min walk from Zampolli's. It was top-rated at that time in Frommer's (IIRC), Italian food, the owner was a winemaker, made some dynamite wines, including a sweet dessert wine from the Clinton grape. I don't speak Italian, but he spoke German, which served us very well. Any ideas what the name of that restaurant was/is??