448433 Sat Oct 06 20:28:29 -0700 2007 0 4 Pacific Northwest 0 3011471 Not having any other plans, I decided to duck into Sel Gris tonight. No reservation, but I tried to show up early and I'm glad I did because I was able to get the last seat at the bar. I'm not familiar with the chef at all, but I thought the menu possessed a whimsy reminiscent of Thomas Keller (I later found out that Chef Dan, in fact, had worked at the French Laundry). Working backwards, I had the same dessert as mentioned above, the blueberry cobbler. Paired with a kaffir lime leaf ice cream, the cobbler was also served with a syrup of berries to go with the great cobbler. Wonderfully buttery, the cobbler also bound the two blueberry preparations in the dish was a nice "duo" (one pureed, the other mascerated). The ice cream created a great palate cleanser, and while kaffir lime leaf was the primary flavor, I couldn't help escape an equally pleasing undercurrent of gingergrass. My entree of "Pork and Beans" (flageolet beans and braised pork cheeks) was great: deep flavors and velvety texture, a textbook braise. The scallion salad that topped it gave the dish a flavor contrast, but I was sometimes blindsided by the flavor of coarse black peppercorn. The soup special that evening was a kubocha squash with chanterelles, dashed with what appeared to be chive oil. There was actually a waft of cinammon that I sensed, but I couldn't tell if that was coming from the brioche nearby on the bread plate. Sadly, this was my third kubocha and chanterelle dish in as many days, and I believe I suffered from a bit of squash-fatigue. I'm sure it tasted excellent, but after a while, I just got bored with it. However, nothing could prepare me for how great the first course was, which is why I'm writing this report in reverse. Sweetbreads are my favorite offal, and done correctly, I liken them to "chicken nuggets for the soul". This was no exception, as the seared exterior gave a nice crunch to an interior that was all at once decadent and comforting. Tiny brunoise of bacon matched the natural smokiness, and also reinforced the crispy exterior. While the sweetbreads would be Wow enough for me, what put this dish over the top was the egg. Again showing a playful side by calling the menu item "Bacon and Eggs", the egg portion was unlike anything I've seen before. The dish was plated with what appeared to be a doughy croquette of some sort on top but it revealed the runny yolk inside. I told Paul, "This is unreal." Because I've developed a subtle sense of cynicism (and a little alliteration) to go along with my palate, I end up enjoying a dish for its use of flavors and textures and so on. The sweetbreads here at Sel Gris were the first time in a long time where I've been wowed by the craft and technique in addition to the ingredients. Again, I'm not familiar at all with Chef Dan or his work at other places around town, but if this dish is any indication, I've missed out. I normally don't like to visit a restaurant until a month has gone by, but they seemed to have hit the ground running. A beautifully designed space, I think the copper highlights throughout the room give the restaurant an unexpected warmth among all of the exposed industrial ductwork. I'm kind of glad I had no plans this evening, as Sel Gris was a phenomenal dinner experience. Sat Oct 06 20:28:29 -0700 2007 50350 SauceSupreme