NYC hound visits Via Matta: LONG

[chow_gal]

Just getting around to posting about a visit to VM Saturday Sept. 17th. Was in Boston to celebrate my birthday with my friends there. On Saturday during the day my friend confesses she forgot to make reservations! Needed: an 8 top, on a Saturday, mid September, schools in session, Yankees playing the Sox. Yeah, won't be hard. Serendipitously we ran into Christopher Myers at a shop in the North End and randomly struck up a conversation with him, though we had no idea who he was. Next thing you know, he's on the phone with his restaurant Via Matta and we have a table for 8.30PM! Wow. Now THAT is gracious hospitality if ever I've seen it.

We were greeted by a young lady/hostess and seated promptly, even though our entire party was not there and we were about 5 minutes early. We had the best table in the house! The big round between the two rustic tables used for prep, bread, decanting. Felt festive and full of energy to be right in the center of the attractive room.

Food and wine were really quite good. Would have been a perfect evening, but the service was off. Wine and water glasses often remained empty. Long periods of time passed between server visits.

Wine list has several interesting Sicilian and Sardinian offerings and I chose the 2004 Cusumano, Benuara, Nero d’Avola/Syrah. The table really liked it, as did I. (Overall, a nice, nice list. Out of the ordinary, wide variety of regions and prices, reasonably priced.)

I was interested in red meat. I had been hoping they'd have a Tuscan Steak, but the waiter guided me towards the Sirloin Of Beef with spicy asparagus salad and crispy potatoes. As a starter I wanted to have a pasta (great that 1/2 portions are offered). The Asparagus ravioli called my attention but I didn't want asparagus in both courses, so he wisely guided me towards the aglio e olio. Loved that it was so spicy! With red pepper flakes!? I loved both. Really did. And the contorni of Spicy String Beans with pancetta was spectacular.

Others enjoyed (with their general comments):
Panzanella - tomato. She loved it and this gal is no stranger to an heirloom tomato. Same diner had the Juicy Pork Loin - again, this Iowa native loves her pork and pork-products and she loved this expression of the Pig.

Another diner had the Loin Of Lamb and declared it "The best lamb dish she'd ever had." So total win on that dish.

We tried the signature eggplant dish and agreed that it's a lot of eggplant to have in one sitting. Best to share.

For dessert a large plate of assorted birthday treats was sent over. My name on the plate. Nice. Nothing memorable on it though.

OVERALL, great food. Really enjoyed the evening, except for service. That can of course be forgiven since we were fortunate enough to meet the proprietor and benefit from his random act of kindness and graciousness by granting a last minute reservation for a large group.

I look forward to trying his new pan-Asian spot: Meyers and Chang.

[MC Slim JB]

Nice, detailed report. I've been reluctant to go back since their previous chef left (though he didn't stay long at his next gig).

By any chance, do you remember what that wine cost?

[Alcachofa]

When did the previous chef leave? I haven't been in several months, but last time I went, it was still good.

[MC Slim JB]

Adam Halberg left Via Matta to become the opening chef at the Beehive, but I understand he recently left there, too.

[Alcachofa]

Hmm, so Beehive opened early June, right? So he would have been prepping the place for maybe a month before that? I think I ate at VM post-Halberg.

[esqdork]

That explains why when I ordered the tasting menu in July it was so pathetic--the kitchen were definitely phoning it in that night. The flavors were nice but the items were not at all interesting. Also, and this was the cardinal sin: rather than giving me and my dining companion our own individual plates, we were instead given one plate in each tasting (except for the pasta) which we had to split. This sort of treatment might work for rubes but it was offensive for people who (used to) eat at the M. Schlow restaurants frequently and ordered the tasting menu many times. It was very clear that the kitchen was skimping and did not take any pride in their food.

[rebs]

i've done a tasting at VM, albeit it was a group of 8, and it was all served family style. that was the only time i've done a tasting there, so i'm not sure if that is just the way they do tastings or if it was because we were a big group. though, serving all tastings family-style kind of makes sense considering that the restaurant's "theme", if you will, is to be fun, lively, eat, drink, share with loved ones, etc....

[ChinaCat]

We've done the tasting menu at VM twice, with a group of 12, and a group of 6. Both times it was served family style. I actually enjoyed it that way. The antipasto selection was great. and rather than one pasta we were able to sample 3 or 4.

Its really not at all the same as at the other Schlow restaurants, and I don't believe its intended to be. On the other hand, I don't think it works as well when there are only 2 people.