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A little trip to France (Paris, Perigord, Pays Basque)

  • t

I am just back from two weeks in France , one week being spend in Paris and the rest on the road.

My two Pris find were memorable . First , Le Grand Pan in the 15iem was very , very good.

Benoit Gauthier , a 27 year old chef from the south west , who used to be a second at another restaurant , opened this little "meat" bistro at 20 rue de Rosenwald in the 15iem.

At dinner time , he prepares big portions of beef , pork or veal ribs cooked so perfectly that they dont need sauce. All his meats a from AOC. I've tasted them all and they were all suculent. Arnauld , the waiter , first bring you a soup , the same for evryone. One night was a gaspacho , the other night a crab bisque that was very good and earthy.

The meats a re accompanied by beautifull thing french fries that are mixed with a bit of sauté shalotte and some green salad. We got a side order of sauted wild mushroom. Deserts we all good , from the raspberry tart , to the chocolate cream.

For lunch , we had stuffed veal belly: a nice round pice of veal , stuffed with saussage and pine nuts, browned and then slowwly cooked in broth.

Bellow , a picture from "Le Grand Pan"
When we were there , the fourth item on the menu was brittany lobster cooked ala plancha , but the season is over and I think he now has St-Jacques.

Be sure to have a glass of Cerdon, a nice bubbly red as a aperitif. All of the wines are served in pitchers , from small producers.

All our meals at Le grand Pan were wonderfull , because of the food and because of Benoit and Arnauld who are very nice people ! A true find !

75015 PARIS
Tel : 01 42 50 02 50
Métro : Plaisance.

They other find is called Le coupe Gorge , near the Hotel de Ville. This is not a wonderfull restaurant , but a nice and inexpensive one nonethe less. The evening menu is 17E...very nice !
I had the foie gras with shesuan pepper ( 3E extra) as a starter , then a steak tartare ( the classic) and a tatin for dessert. All were quite good and for the price , very nice.

When in Paris , I alway get a nutella crepe at the crepe stand in front of the St-Germain church in St-Germain . Fresh and served with a smile.

We had macarons from Pierre Hermé and some from Laduré. Laduré won for us

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  1. We the headed south , first to Bourge , were our meal was forgetable.

    We then went all the way , south west , stopping in Espelette to see the nice little white houses were the peppers are hung to dry. We bought some Piment d'espelette saucisson and some Sel de bayonne with Piment d'espellette. Wow.

    We ended up in Saint-Jean-pied-de-port, a wonderfull little city on the Compostell road. After climbing the mountain to see the citadell , we ended up at Lizarra ,on a nice terrasse with a view of the citadelle.

    I had a piperade basque ( peppers , tomatoes , eggs) with a piece of ham on top , followed by nice big slices of pork with Pimientos Del Piquillo de Lodosa and fries. Ver good ! My travel parner add the paella tht was quite ordinay

    1. WE then went back up north to the Perigor and Dordogne region. In no particular order :

      We stopped in Priguex where we haad a wonderfull meal a t small restaurant called Le Matelo ( I dont have the adress now). We ate on the terrase , in the middle of a nice medieval street.

      My partner add the Moules du Mont-St-Michel , while I add the Lieu-noir ( i dont know the english name for that fish) with a spice crust, servd on a bed of almost caramelised carrots and a small dish of capponata. Everything tasted fresh and lovingly prepared

          1. It seems that pictures dont want to be put up !

            A stop in Beynac gave us another nice meal: In the only nice place in the village we had , for me , some nice veal chops with some sort of curried coucous that was hidden in a brick cone. My parner had steak with shallots tha was ordinary ( he got lucky latter).His starter was a duck and foie gras terrine and mine was a warm chevre salad

            1. last try for pictures from periguex

              1. So no pictures from the meal in Perigeux !

                Our last wonderfull meal was at "les foies gras d'Erillac" where the menu , obviously , the specialities are foie gras based. The restaurant is based in Hautefort. This is nice restaurant after viviting the exquisit chateau and it's gardens.

                We were served by Florence , the owner. we started with a duck and foie gras terrine that had three big veins of foie gras in them. I then had a magret de canard with wild mushroom sauce , cooked "a point"(medium) served witha provencale tomato , sautéed vegetables a baked potatoe with creme fraiche. My parner had the "assiette du chevalier": fisrt floore: a mix of mussels , shrimps , dried magret in sauce , second floore , an emptied baked potatoe , stuffed with magret , third floor , two big pieces of "foie gras poêler", all drenche in a nice wine sauce. This was an orgy : succulent , full of flavors and very surprising !

                During the trip , we stopped at a chateau as well to buy some Paicharment wine ( Have not drank it yet) and at a foie gras producer , were we ate our fois strait from the can , while looking at the birds froliking in the fiels. Dont forget to eat some basque cake as well It is very good and buttery !

                All in all , a very good trip , with special nodds to Le matelo in Perigeux , Le grand Pan in paris and "les foies gras d'Erillac" in Hautefort

                6 Replies
                1. re: toto

                  Excellent food report, great descriptions, thanks! Good photos, too.

                  1. re: morebubbles

                    Thank you !

                    Sorry about all the misspeling...English is my second language , and I am a poor typist !

                    1. re: toto

                      It was all very easily understood! We really got a feel for the food, and the social interaction, which I consider is an important part of enjoying the food & travel experience! Thanks again for your report, loved every detail and would love to eat the food shown on the photos! Good ones.
                      I was a bad tourist on my trip to Portugal&Spain because I took a camera that was low on battery! Oh well! I'll have to try again on another trip.

                      1. re: toto

                        Thanks, will give Le Grand Pan a try

                        1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                          Le Grand Pan for dejeuner today
                          You were spot on, a 10. Fab cote d' veau and frites, great cheap wines, great place, thanks

                          1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                            Glad you liked it !

                            If you go back , say Bonjours to benoit , the chef , and Arnaud , the waiter , from Antoine and Sylvain in Montreal !!!!