Colman Andrews in The New Republic
Really great short piece Colman Andrews in the 8/27 issue of the New Republic. This quote more or less sums up his theme:
"It is my opinion that whoever said 'Nothing tastes as good as thin feels' has probably never sat down with three ounces of Iranian osetra, a stack of freshly made blinis (the kind that aren't made with pancake mix), a small bone spoon, and nobody else in the room ..."
If that doesn't work, try: