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Joe's Burgers

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bacchante Sep 11, 2007 10:54 AM

The other day, I was running errands in McLean, and I stopped at Joe’s Burgers on Old Dominian Drive. It has been mentioned on this board in a thread on another restaurant. Here are my impressions.

The place: It is in a small strip that includes the Organic Butcher and, I believe, the Corner Bistro. It is very tiny, with 8 two-tops that can be pushed together to seat groups of 6 or so. There is seating on barstools for another 5. There is parking in front, which can easily be full, but there is additional parking on the side.

The menu: Very focused and understated, it includes a number of burgers, a chicken breast sandwich, grilled veggie sandwich with goat cheese, chicken wings, and onion rings. Prices for the burgers range from $8.95 to $14.95, and all include fries. Way in the back, I saw a sign for soup of the day (gazpacho), but there was no price. The burgers include a basic burger with cheese, organic burger with cheese, blue cheese burger, black angus, buffalo, kobe beef ($11.95), venison, and several burgers with specialized toppings such as chorizo and manchego; pepperjack and guacamole; and gorgonzola, pesto, and pancetta. At the top of the line, $14.95 gets you either the special kobe burger, marinated in teriyaki sauce and served with wasabi-mayo or a venison burger with gruyere, pancetta, mushrooms, and caramelized onions. [As an aside, I do wish we could cure restauranteurs of misusing the term “kobe beef.” Simply having the same genetics doesn’t make the meat Kobe beef, no more than sparkling wine from New York State is champagne.] The day I was there, there was an ostrich burger special, and a portobello sandwich as well. The choice of cheese includes the usual suspects of cheddar, swiss, provolone, but also includes things such as mozzarella, manchego, pepperjack, gruyere and gorgonzola. I didn't hear brie, which is my favorite on a burger. Unfortunately, the list of cheeses isn’t on the menu. Since I was offered gorgonzola as a cheese on the basic burger, I’m wondering what the extra dollar for the blue cheese burger gets you. There are a few domestic and imported beers ($3.95 and $4.95, respectively, as I recall, a few wines by the glass, and several cocktails listed. I found the latter particularly interesting, since I’m wondering why they would bother with the license in such a small place, where you might not want to encourage occupying a table longer.

The food: I had the basic burger, since this would be the best comparison. I had gruyere as the cheese of choice, not the best for comparison sake, but I like it. As the burger came to the table, I lowered my expectations when I saw that it was a pre-formed patty. I needn’t have. This place leaves Elevation Burger in the dust, which is what I think the elevation burger tastes like. The meat itself was of good quality, and the burger is 8 ounces (not touted on the meuu; I had to ask). I ordered it rare (the waiter asked), and it was indeed cool red in the middle. The outside was mildly charred, but it was enough that I could definitely taste it. It was on a beautiful bun that had been nicely toasted. Just a few bites in, that bun was no longer toasty, since it was sopping up all the juice from the burger (contrast with the dried-out pucks I’ve had at E-Burger). There is the smallest smear of their “signature barbeque sauce” that added a bit of taste but was in no way overwhelming (again, contrast with the abominable sauce at E-Burger--necessary to give it some moisture but awful). It came with a slice of organic (only later volunteered by waiter later during our discussion) tomato, a slice of onion, and a few leaves that I saw the cook pull from a living head of butter lettuce, also organic. The fries were the small shoestring type that I assumed from their uniformity to be packaged. However, they were perfectly fried and then tossed (I witnessed this) in a bowl with coarse salt and a few pepper flakes. They were obviously fried properly and in good quality oil, because they stayed crisp until I was finished with the burger. Even if they were pre-packaged potatoes, they were leagues above the under-done, slimy things at E-Burger that are a waste of both potatoes and olive oil.

All in all, it was an excellent burger and fries. Not cheap, but I didn't feel ripped off, and in fact seemed altogether reasonable, given the quality. I’m not saying this is the best burger I’ve ever had, but it sure is a lot better than many of them around.

My complaint: My table had a fresh bottle of Heinz ketchup, and I had a hard time getting it started. But then, why on earth would I have needed it?

Next time, which there definitely will be, I'll try perhaps a non-beef burger or one with special toppings.

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  1. Dennis S RE: bacchante Sep 11, 2007 11:33 AM

    Thanks for the in depth review. The other thread was one I believe I had started. I passed by Joe's again the other day (rare for me to go through there at all), and wondered again about it - but it wasn't a good time for me to stop. Maybe I'll try to allot a little time next time I know I'll be through the area.

    1. m
      MikeR RE: bacchante Sep 12, 2007 03:52 AM

      Wow! A true Chowhound report. Thanks

      I simply could never order a burger that expensive so I'll have to take my guilty pleasure vicariously. In this phase of my life when I'm trying to eat better and less, I don't mind a great 8 oz burger now and then, but that and a full load of French fries would be much more than I could handle, and neither food is conducive to taking home and eating later. I used to re-fry left over 5 Guys fries in a wok but decided it was better for me to just discard the considerable pile of leftovers.

      I am no longer impressed with Elevation Burger, but still have a 5 Guys single every few weeks just to keep the faith. Sometimes I don't even order fries, which is a shame, I know. The fries and burgers are always good at the Gallows Road & Lee Highway 5 Guys. Your 5 Guys may vary.

      1. s
        sweth RE: bacchante Sep 12, 2007 05:57 AM

        Can someone who has had one explain the point of a kobe/wagyu burger to me? Wagyu cows give you super-marbled beef, but when you're grinding the beef, the marbling doesn't really matter--if you take two pieces of beef with the same overall fat content, one a ground-up poorly-marbled chunk of Angus and the other a well-marbled piece of Wagyu, they're both going to give you basically the same burger. Has anyone tried a kobe burger (at Joe's or elsewhere) who can comment on what makes it worth the money?

        1 Reply
        1. re: sweth
          monkeyrotica RE: sweth Oct 4, 2007 11:44 AM

          The "point" of a kobe/wagyu burger is for the purchaser to be able to say they've bought the most expensive burger possible.

          To me, it's kinda like buying a whole salmon, deboning it, turning it into a mousse that you then mold into the shape of ... a fish.

        2. ktmoomau RE: bacchante Sep 12, 2007 06:57 AM

          Oh my an ostrich burger! I love ostrich! I will have to call ahead and find out when that will be back, and chorizo... man I might have to make a couple stops.

          1. d
            DC Taco RE: bacchante Sep 12, 2007 07:16 AM

            My wife and I stopped by a few weeks ago, shortly after they opened, I believe. I think bacchante's report is spot on. Our burgers were tasty, cooked to order and properly sized. The bun was good as well.

            I do think they have a few things to improve on. I can confirm that the fries are pre-packaged and frozen. In fact, we saw them empty a bag of Safeway fries into the frier. I did not care for them. While I dislike the bitter taste of E-Burger's fries that comes from the olive oil, I would prefer them to the mush of fries that we were served. Perhaps it's just a preference, my wife liked them, and she likes steak fries. I also thought that I could have had more cheese on my burger. I dig manchego cheese and was excited to try it with a burger, but the two paper thin slices couldn't impart any flavor. My tomato was also sliced too thin.

            All in all, I think it's a good burger, but a bit over-priced. I expect more when I'm paying that much (see Palena). Still, if I'm craving a burger in McLean, I'll probably stop by again.

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