Try Kyria Maria. I can not even begin to explain to you how to find it but I believe it is listed in several guidebooks. The setting is nice with low lights hanging from the grapevine covered overhead trellis. The service is great and the food is all homemade, of course. Mostly typical Greek fare on the menu but they have nightly specials that are a little more inspired. It's was very difficult for us to find decent (re: non-touristy) restaurants in most of Greece but this one really stood out. If you get out to some of the smaller villages of Crete you will easily find authentic tavernas that do not cater to tourists. Hope this helps and have fun!