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Naples and Rome in October for Honeymoon

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samlev Aug 22, 2007 01:14 PM

We will be spending 8 days in Rome and 4 days in Naples on our honeymoon and I am looking for suggestions on locales to eat while in Naples and Capri. We have spent time in Rome and have several favorites including Pier Luigi which we stumbled across accidentally while walking back to our B&B from the Vatican (Giorgio is the best waiter there). All input in appreciated, even information on Rome as we love to try new places.

Thanks.

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  1. l
    LotsC Aug 28, 2007 09:16 AM

    La Campana is fab, I also like Matricianella....Maccheroni can be either good or bad depending on that day's chef....Armando e Pantheon....

    1 Reply
    1. re: LotsC
      d
      DylS Aug 28, 2007 03:24 PM

      Maccheroni seems to be on a downslide. A recent visit was very disappointing, and friends who ate there a month earlier felt the same.

      Sora Margherita, in the Ghetto, is consistently worth the frequent wait; we have at least one meal on every visit: the menu changes daily, and it's straightforward, typically Roman dishes, prepared from scratch, among them many Jewish specialties. Filled with Romans and the odd tourist. The staff don't (or won't) speak English, but you'll manage fine.

    2. l
      LotsC Aug 28, 2007 09:19 AM

      Me again, Taverna degli Amici in Piazza Margana (relatively near the "Wedding Cake") - lovely little piazza and could be very romantic.

      1. r
        RomeAddict Aug 28, 2007 02:39 PM

        You're making a huge mistake if you don't spend the night on Capri at least 1 of your nights...the day-trippers have to leave relatively early in the evening. Since it's your honeymoon, it's such a romantic spot. If you don't mind a lovely scenic hike, definitely eat at da Gelsomina in Anacapri, ravioli that melts in your mouth. Make sure when you leave there, you walk to the right a short distance to the end of the island for magnificent views.
        Ah Rome, Armando's, Trattoria Monti, Pierluigi, Il Bacaro, dal Bolognese (bronzini), Cul de Sac, Ditirambo,Taverna Fiammetta, Matricianella, da Gino, Taverna Romano, Sora Margherita, Al Pompiere, La Cicala e La Formica, Al Bric, Hostaria Costanza, La Forchetta d'Oro, da Marcello, Tre Pupazzi (Vatican), Pommidoro, Trattoria Al Simeto, Porto di Repetta, Ciccia Bomba (pizza)
        "Una Vita non Basta"

        1 Reply
        1. re: RomeAddict
          mbfant Aug 28, 2007 10:49 PM

          I completely agree about staying over on Capri. The evening is the best time of day, but in any case, leave the main piazza area quickly and go walking. The crowds tend to have little imagination and all stay in one place.

        2. steeltowngrl Aug 28, 2007 04:18 PM

          Il Bacaro, via degli Spagnioli, 27 - Rome, a few minutes from the Pantheon. It sits on a quiet street with a few outdoor seats. I found it to be quite romantic and they have incredible homemade pastas. www.ilbacaro.com

          1. r
            RomeAddict Aug 29, 2007 06:54 AM

            If I were you, I would opt for all 4 nights in Capri instead of Naples. I prefer Naples & Sorrento & Positano as day trips because Naples is too congested & nasty and Amalfi so laden w/tourists...but to each their own. Gunnar Adler-Karlsson lives at Casa Marianna (named for his wife) at the far end of Anacapri & has Philosophical Park across the walkway from da Gelsomina (my husband's fav restaurant in the world) where they refer to him as The Professor. He's a brilliant & charming man we met while there...hope you get the opportunity to do the same.

            2 Replies
            1. re: RomeAddict
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              profjmm Aug 29, 2007 01:54 PM

              I disagree. If you have any sense of adventure (which given your choice of Naples as a destination it seems that you do) Naples is wonderful! In fact, because so many Americans hear that Naples is scary and dirty (it's no more dirty than Paris was 15 years ago), you'll find it delightfully tourist-free, and you'll find the food terrific. One of the famous pizza places is a must; we went to Ciro di Santa Brigida and liked it a lot. For a more upscale dining experience, try Europa, for which you'll probably need a reservation. Naples also has a huge number of coffee and pastry shops, so be sure to just drop in and sample them.

              1. re: profjmm
                jen kalb Aug 29, 2007 02:56 PM

                I was going to say the same about Naples - we loved the Centro, despite the fact its less orderly than northern Italian cities, with its remnants or Roman and even Classical Greece times (Naples was founded by the greeks and its street plan is Roman) and its lively street culture, and wonderful churches and museums (the Capodimonte Museum's painting collection is one of the finest in Europe, stunning) tho pizza and fritti would be an issue for you I guess? The vegetables, bean dishes and seafood in that area are extraordinary - tho you might need to watch out for fried dishes dusted with flour?? Ive posted earlier this year about some of the restuarants and dishes we enjoyed. See post on this thread:
                http://www.chowhound.com/topics/391093
                In the area, you would surely want to see Pompeii - there are a couple of good restaurants in the town of Pompeii near the Scavi - the more upscale is Il Principe (closed when I was there, on the town square - nearer to the scavi is the one I visited, Zi Caterina http://www.dine-online.co.uk/vicat.htm
                the vegetarian appetizers and stewed baby octopus were wonderful, the fritto misto the most diverse and best encountered on our Naples/Amalfi coast trip. Zi Caterina is huge and it looks touristy (strolling musician, waiter rolling eyeballs at my lack of good italian), but it delivers and I highly recomment.
                THEN go to Capri and kick back for a few days.
                Enjoy, you will have a wonderful trip.

            2. r
              RomeAddict Aug 29, 2007 07:01 AM

              By all means, have a cappucini at Caffe Antica near the Campidoglia in Rome where they make an art form out of the cappucini froth...please see picture.

               
              1. CHEFBUCK Aug 29, 2007 02:55 PM

                My wife and I also had our honeymoon in Italy and was incredible. Capri was incredible. You must take a boat ride around the island and experience the grottos. I know Sorrento is close by. We found a quaint place that sells lemon chello and Olive oil. I do not know the name of it, but they do lunch there which included a tour. Be cautious of the gypseys in Naples. There are many places to eat in Naples especially pizza

                1. r
                  RomeAddict Aug 29, 2007 04:56 PM

                  Definitely include Bucca de Bacca de Serafina in Capri to the left from the main piazza, fabulous. Try to get the one table that has a long window for glorious views of the water.
                  La Capannina, Via le Botteghe,14, table in the inner courtyard, divine.
                  La Conazone del Mare, Via Marina Piccola 93, for lunch only, table 31. This place has gorgeous views & food.

                  1. s
                    samlev Aug 30, 2007 07:13 AM

                    Thank you for all of the wonderful suggestions!

                    I am very excited about Naples due to the fact that most tourists consider it scary but I have heard wonderful things about it. I am going to book a night in Capri, does anyone have any B&B or hotel suggestions? I am using points to stay in Naples (I travel for work and have to use them some time) so a hotel stay in Capri would be wonderful while we still use Naples as our homebase.

                    On a side note, ingredients are of no concern. As long as it is tasty, we are set. We will both eat just about anything!

                    3 Replies
                    1. re: samlev
                      r
                      RomeAddict Aug 30, 2007 11:39 AM

                      I adore the Quisisana (room 328) but it's pricey. There's also Gatto Bianco--great location on the main shopping drag & up from the BEST gelato in Italy; Villa Krupp where Lenin was a guest; Canasta; Caesar Augustus for Anacapri. I'm so glad you're staying over, Capri is enchanting. I love the ruins of Villa Jova where Tiberious would fling his enemies from the cliff, quite a walk but worth it. You'll understand why he ruled Rome from there.

                      1. re: samlev
                        erica Aug 30, 2007 12:35 PM

                        This week's New York Times has an article about a simple, lunch-only Naples trattoria that the author, Mark Bittman, called one of the world's best eating experiences...I plan to check it out next spring...La Tavernetta on Via Loggia di Genova.

                        1. re: erica
                          t
                          tartuffe Aug 30, 2007 02:46 PM

                          Naples is wonderful. Very few tourists, great museums, and a real city. Make sure you walk thru Spaccanapoli (the old town)--its fascinating. Naples is most famous for pizza, and it is the best in the world. I also remember great ariancini. Friendly people. We even went thru the train staion twice--a fearsome place according to Frommer's--but had no incidents. Be sure and try the coffe and pastries at the "bars".

                          As for Capri: great beauty, altho the Blue Grotto is way over-weighted. But you should go there once.

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