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The perfect pernil

JungMann Aug 17, 2007 09:26 AM

I'm making pernil this weekend for only the third time ever. Normally when making pork shoulder, I use a dry rub, cook low and finish high for a crispy skin. With pernil, I marinate in a spicy mojo (oregano, garlic, cilantro, onions, cumin, cayenne, salt, pepper, sour orange, oil) to great effect. Unfortunately whenever I cook the pernil, low heat, high heat, it doesn't matter, the skin comes out crispy black in some parts but mostly rubbery everywhere else.

Anyone have some experience making crispy skin on pernil with a wet rub? Tell me the secret!

Also I'd appreciate some feedback on sides to go with the pernil, especially vegetables. Right now I'm thinking Mexican rice and mofongo, but that might be too unbalanced.

  1. s
    sunnyskies12 Feb 24, 2014 09:23 PM

    I made the Cook's Country August/September 2013 recipe and unfortunately had the same problem - most of the skin was either burnt or rubbery, with just a few bites of crisp skin. Thank-you to everyone who replied here; I will try those suggestions next time.

    1. w
      Wawsanham Oct 19, 2011 10:00 AM

      It depends on the country. Pernil certainly exists in Chile where it is simply boiled with some salt--yucca, orange juice, "mojo" (a totally unknown term in Chile), other herbs & spices, etc... would be absolutely foreign. Also, "pernil" is called "Schweinshaxe" in German and is a major dish at events like the October fest, and is a big German export to Taiwan (for example), and again the German style of making it would be somewhat different (with apple sauce, for example). It seems some people are under the impression of Caribbean ways of making it. That's only ONE or a few ways of preparing this cut of pork.

      1. w
        Wawsanham Oct 18, 2011 02:42 PM

        I've never had it with crispy skin. I've always known it to be soft or rubbery--it's ok that way, besides. I've never seen it marinated in anything either. Just a bit of salt. It's your basic hamhock.

        1. l
          Latino0425 Oct 18, 2011 02:25 PM

          Puerto Rican RIce and beans and yuca is what usually gets served with Pernil.

          You need pink goya beans, take 2 tables spoons of olive oil and heat up, take one tablespoon of sofrito and stir it around in the heated olive oil, put in your pink goya beans then a 8 oz can of tomato sauce, 8 oz of water and a light sprikle of adobo. simmer your beans for about 20 minutes and serve with white rice.

          2 Replies
          1. re: Latino0425
            bushwickgirl Oct 18, 2011 05:11 PM

            It's actually rice and peas, as in gandules, and yuca salad is welcome, or batatas, or boiled plantains, but it may be que tu abuela o tu mamà cosinaba hoy, so if rosadas are on the table, que bueno.

            1. re: bushwickgirl
              jen kalb Oct 19, 2011 11:29 AM

              I like it with rice/black beans (moros e cristianos) as served in many NY cuban-chinese restaurants during my culinary youth.. they serve yuca and garlic sauce too, but Ive never yet developed a taste for yuca.

              When I cook it at home, tho, I use Carmen Aboy Valldejuli's recipe which I think doesnt contain any of the exotica in its adobo - just oregano, pepper, oil , salt and lots of garlic. (but I may be wrong) - a cuban recipe would have the sour orange flavor added in its mojo

          2. l
            Latino0425 Oct 18, 2011 02:15 PM

            Not sure what kind of Pernil you all are making but the recipes or ingredients you are using are not traditional ingredients. Cumin, cilantro, orange juice etc... where did you get your recipe?

            I am Puerto Rican and I can assure you cumin, cayenne, cilantro would never ever be added to Pernil. Your losing a very basic flavor by adding all of these ingredients and Im not sure where you got your recipe but I am glad I am not eating Pernil at your house.

            8 Replies
            1. re: Latino0425
              paulj Oct 18, 2011 02:54 PM

              Puerto Rico is not the only place that makes pernil. Other examples that I'm aware of are Cuban and Ecuadorian. Plus in Catalan pernil means ham (Spanish jamon). In another thread a poster insisted that only a leg (pierna) can be used, not a shoulder.

              http://laylita.com/recipes/2008/03/12...

              1. re: Latino0425
                b
                bluesilver Nov 22, 2011 12:51 AM

                Latino0425

                There really is no need to be so rude. I don't know how technical you want to get with "tradition" but all of us Puerto Ricans weren't around since the dawn of time. We're a mix of different people throughout the generations from when the island was first invaded and the Taino basically wiped out. Some of our influences are from Europe which may not be where cilantro originated, but where it grows wild. So cilantro has become a staple in our traditional cuisine. So traditional has a lot of meanings. We're mixed and should be allowed to use whatever influences from cultures that run in our blood.

                "Puerto Rican cuisine has its roots in the cooking traditions and practices of Europe (Spain), Africa and the Amerindian Taínos. In the latter part of the 19th century the cuisine of Puerto Rico was greatly influenced by the United States in the ingredients used in its preparation."

                "The cuisines of Spain, Taíno and Arawaks Amerindians, and parts of the African continent have had an impact on how food is prepared in Puerto Rico. Although Puerto Rican cooking is somewhat similar to both Spanish and Latin American cuisine, it is a unique tasty blend of influences, using indigenous seasonings and ingredients. Locals call their cuisine "cocina criolla[1] The traditional Puerto Rican cuisine was well established by the end of the nineteenth century."

                1. re: bluesilver
                  paulj Nov 22, 2011 10:05 AM

                  Latino0425 hasn't posted anything else.

                  Curiously cilantro (coriander) is Old World in origin, but disappeared from much of European cooking, only to be reintroduced via Chinese and Mexican cooking. Culantro, a different plant with a similar taste, is New World, but quite popular in SE Asia. I only find it groceries under the Vietnamese name ( ngo gai )

                  1. re: paulj
                    b
                    bluesilver Nov 22, 2011 11:12 AM

                    I understand that coriander is native to southern Europe and North Africa to southwestern Asia. My point is was that we're not a pure race so people shouldn't be rude if someone wants to use cilantro in their cooking. Puerto Ricans are multiracial, so why couldn't it be considered traditional for them to use some items in their cooking that some of their ancestry used whether it was in the U.S. or outside?

                    The person who originally posted the question mentioned Mexican rice as a side dish so maybe they're making Mexican style type of Pernil? That person I left a comment for wasn't very helpful and had no problem being rude about it so it seemed like a waste of a answer to the question.

                    Culantro is definitely hard to find ! I definitely agree with you ! I did find it in an ethnic part of a small supermarket in the spanish cooking section in small wrapped trays. I can't seem to find it elsewhere. Cilantro is much easier to find. Sazon is also considered traditional to some people.. maybe "new tradition" but a type of tradition all the same.

                    1. re: bluesilver
                      JungMann Nov 22, 2011 11:52 AM

                      I suggested Mexican rice because, as much as I enjoy arroz con gandules, I find it a little heavy, whereas cooking rice with just sofrito and seasonings preserves a lot of the flavor while eliminating some of the heaviness. As for my pernil marinade, it is an interpretation of mojo criollo and a fusion of Puerto Rican and Cuban influences. I make no claims to make authentically Boricua pernil; but it sure is tasty.

                      1. re: JungMann
                        paulj Nov 22, 2011 12:24 PM

                        So what you labeled as 'Mexican rice', is just rice cooked with a enough sofrito to give it the pink color many of us associate with Mexican or Spanish rice.

                        I suspect that in Puerto Rico as in other parts of Latin America, cooked rice can be anything from pure white (best to contrast with black beans in Moros y Cristianos), yellow (with turmeric or achiote coloring), green (lots of cilantro/culantro or parsley), pink, or loaded (local version of paella).

                        1. re: paulj
                          JungMann Nov 22, 2011 01:05 PM

                          What I grew up calling "Mexican rice" is basically rice cooked with sofrito and tomato sauce. I've also seen it called "Spanish rice" in certain parts of the country.

                          I am no expert in Puerto Rican cuisine, but I have eaten at my fair share of lechoneras and fiestas. Rice dishes tend to be subtly seasoned with at most sazon, maybe recaito and some pork fat. Other than the pegao, I find them rather unremarkable, not necessarily a bad thing in a side. Arroz con gandules, however, is a hearty affair of sofrito, pork and alcaparrado. I love it, but it is heavy with pernil.

                          1. re: JungMann
                            bushwickgirl Nov 22, 2011 04:58 PM

                            And gandules, of course. We're about to enjoy some with our Thanksgiving repast, along with a pernil. Pork ribs bits, sofrito, alcaparrado and gandules is the true Puerto Rican style.

              2. p
                phoenikia Jan 22, 2011 11:10 AM

                Great thread. Will be preparing a non-authentic take on pernil with some garlic, cilantro, cumin, oregano, Meyer lemons & tangelos tonight! Thanks for the inspiration, everyone!

                1. r
                  RichardinJP Dec 26, 2008 03:34 AM

                  I cut a deep and wide pocket between the skin and the meat, being careful not to cut through the skin. I then rub a mixture of mashed garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper and oregano under the skin and on the underside (non-skin side) of the shoulder. Do not put any of the mixture on top of the skin, otherwise it will not crisp. Place in a large plastic bag and let it sit in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Then roast at 325 degrees for 5-6 hours. The meat is very tender and the skin nice and crisp without any burning. I serve it with boiled yucca with onion slices that have been sauteed in vegetable oil until soft.

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: RichardinJP
                    w
                    wrobert3 Feb 19, 2010 08:24 AM

                    I agree with yamalam... when the pernil is done, remove the skin, place in a cast-iron skillet and return to the 250-degree oven and allow to render, brown and crisp (raise the heat if you want it faster) -- In any case, watch the skin because it goes from rubbery, to perfectly rendered and crisp to burned very quickly, especially at higher oven temperatures. Because some parts of the skin are thicker and have more fat than others, you may have to cut and remove done pieces of skin from the oven and leave the rubbery part in a bit longer. For more even cooking, you could scrape away the fat underneath the skin using the back of your knife before returning to the oven. That makes it cook more evenly and a bit faster. If you use this method, you can marinate the skin and all. It's a labor of love but it is so worth it if you really love that crispy flavorful skin.

                  2. e
                    Elier Nov 26, 2008 01:02 PM

                    To get crispy skin "chicharrón" you need to remove the skin or hide. Marinated the ham as usual and later lightly coat the skin with the marinated. Upon preparation put the ham in a drape th skin over (fat facing down).

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: Elier
                      yamalam Dec 21, 2008 10:55 AM

                      I agree, but I take the skin off at the end. Roast at 250 for an hour per pound, skin side up, then cut off skin (it comes off easily at this point) and put both back in oven on broil for 15 minutes or until skin crisps. Just made a perfect one yesterday:)

                    2. e
                      elgordoboy Aug 23, 2007 07:58 PM

                      My usual is a paste of garlic, cilantro, pepper, an oil. Make piercings an inch or so deep all over and stuff full with paste. Salt and rub paste on the outside of the skin and let it marinate 4 hours to overnite blah blah the usual. Preheat the oven 450 degrees. Slide the roast into the oven and lower the temp to 325 degrees. Don't use a wet rub as this can "steam" the skin and prevent crispiness. Cook to 165 degrees or so and check the skin by rapping on it with a knife. This method results in nice cracklings over at least 75% of the skin. My ex gf's mom (native cuban) somehow managed to get it all crunchy, even the delectable part on the underside. I thought she was kidding the first time she offered me this piece with all the fat rendering underneath the skin. I din't want to be rude so I ate it...glad I did..wonderful stuff. Good luck. Oh and if you boil the yucca as Cheese Boy suggests (frozen really is as good and much easier) try lightly frying them after boiling by squeezing them into shapes about the size of two thumbs and drop into an inch of oil turning until browned. Mojo is not traditionally served with yucca frita, but I like to have them with that anyway. An avocado and tomato salad also as something lighter.

                      1 Reply
                      1. re: elgordoboy
                        s
                        squirrelly_wrath Aug 24, 2007 12:31 PM

                        All the recipes sound great, variations on a theme - thanks so much!

                      2. Cheese Boy Aug 17, 2007 11:50 AM

                        Pernil is delicious, but I'm one of those people who doesn't care for that jaw-breakingly hard skin that results in cooking it. The meat itself tastes incredibly tender and that's all I care about. So, unfortunately, I don't know the secret to getting that tough skin you crave.

                        As a side to your pernil, serve up some boiled yuca. Bring approximately 4 quarts of water to
                        a boil. Then take a 24 ounce pack of Goya frozen yuca (yes, frozen), and cook that for 35-40 minutes. After that, cover it, and turn off the gas. Have a *thickly* SLICED red onion ready and drop that into the same pot with the yuca - cover it again. Ten minutes or so pass, voila, the onion will be cooked (make sure it's completely submerged in the hot water). Serve the yuca drizzled with your favorite EVOO, some salt, and a slice or two of the cooked whole red onion rings. If you really want to load up on carbs, serve rice along side as well.
                        The yuca qualifies as your vegetable (and starch).

                        Image ---> http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/I...

                        7 Replies
                        1. re: Cheese Boy
                          JungMann Aug 17, 2007 03:30 PM

                          I don't want "hard" skin either. Just the good, crispy crackling that I get whenever I cook shoulder any other way.

                          1. re: JungMann
                            s
                            squirrelly_wrath Aug 23, 2007 08:02 AM

                            Isn't there a garlic sauce that should be prepared for the meat when done? If so, can someone give a recipe?

                            1. re: squirrelly_wrath
                              paulj Aug 24, 2007 09:14 AM

                              The garlic dipping sauce in Daisy Cooks, mojito, uses
                              10 cloves of galic pounded with 1 tsp salt
                              a finely chopped onion, 3/4 c olive oil, 1/4 vinegar, plus lime, lemon, and orange juice.
                              I've had something similar at a Cuban restaurant.

                              paulj

                              1. re: squirrelly_wrath
                                ChefBoyAreMe Aug 24, 2007 09:28 AM

                                Alternatively, Cook's Illustrated suggests a garlic rub after a "brinade", and a mojo suace for topping, which is also excellent as a topping for the yucca (as in yucca con mojo):

                                INGREDIENTS

                                Pork and Brine
                                1 bone-in, skin-on pork picnic shoulder (7 to 8 pounds)
                                3 cups sugar
                                2 cups table salt
                                2 medium heads garlic , unpeeled cloves separated and crushed
                                4 cups orange juice

                                Garlic-Citrus Paste
                                12 medium cloves garlic , peeled and coarsely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
                                2 tablespoons ground cumin
                                2 tablespoons dried oregano
                                1 tablespoon table salt
                                1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper
                                6 tablespoons orange juice
                                2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
                                2 tablespoons olive oil

                                1. TO BRINE THE PORK: With sharp paring knife, cut 1-inch-deep slits (about 1 inch long) all over roast, spaced about 2 inches apart. Dissolve sugar and salt in 6 quarts cold water in stockpot or large bucket. Stir in garlic and orange juice. Submerge pork in brine and refrigerate 18 to 24 hours.
                                2. TO APPLY THE GARLIC-CITRUS PASTE: Process garlic, cumin, oregano, salt, and pepper in food processor until they reach consistency of coarse paste, about ten 1-second pulses. With machine running, add orange juice, vinegar, and oil through feed tube and process until mixture forms smooth, wet paste, about 20 seconds. Remove pork from brine and rinse under cool running water; pat dry with paper towels. Rub paste all over pork and into slits.

                                The sauce can be made while the cooked pork (see related recipes) is resting or up to a day ahead of time and refrigerated in an airtight container. If chilled, let the sauce come to room temperature before serving.
                                INGREDIENTS
                                4 medium cloves garlic , minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 4 teaspoons)
                                2 teaspoons kosher salt
                                1/2 cup olive oil
                                1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
                                1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
                                1/4 cup fresh orange juice from 1 to 2 oranges
                                1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
                                1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
                                1. Place minced garlic on cutting board and sprinkle with kosher salt. Using flat side of chef's knife, drag garlic and salt back and forth across cutting board in small circular motions until garlic is ground into smooth paste.
                                2. Heat olive oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic paste and cumin and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
                                3. Remove pan from heat and whisk in remaining ingredients. Transfer to bowl and cool to room temperature. Whisk sauce to recombine before serving.

                                1. re: ChefBoyAreMe
                                  bigjeff Sep 8, 2007 02:31 PM

                                  my variation on the typical orange marinade is to use equal parts orange juice and orange soda; gets a nice sugary flavor and crust, marinate overnight along with the usual herbs, salts and spices, and then low and slow; I like to take the brine, strain and reduce for maybe 20-30 minutes, so they'll be a nice glaze (which can be cut with alcohol and fresh herbs or something since it's pretty sweet) which can be served w/ the pernil.

                                  1. re: ChefBoyAreMe
                                    lilgi Jan 22, 2011 02:02 PM

                                    I have a recipe that I've relied on for a few years but this one sounds fantastic! Definitely going to give this one a try. Thanks for posting this.

                                  2. re: squirrelly_wrath
                                    Deenso Aug 24, 2007 09:28 AM

                                    8 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
                                    ¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh oregano
                                    1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
                                    1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
                                    ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
                                    Salt and freshly ground black pepper

                                    Mix together garlic, oregano, vinegar, lime juice, and olive oil in a small bowl, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve as a condiment alongside pork.

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