430891 Mon Aug 13 14:07:27 -0700 2007 2 27 General Chowhounding Topics 0 2841075 [ Note: This post was split from the SF Bar Area Board at:http://www.chowhound.com/topics/427658#2811297 -- The Chowhound Team] Kare… there are definitely some Veracruzanos in the Bay Area. Where? I am not sure. Last year I went to the Pena Cultural Center in Berkeley to check out the Xalapa based band Son de Madera… and there were a number of proud, nostalgic, very enthusiastic Veracruzanos in the audience. http://www.myspace.com/sondemadera Its important to note that Veracruz itself is a relatively large state with lots of regional differences, cultural, geographic & culinary. Rouhly speaking there are 6 major regions within Veracruz: Jarocho Region… this is the area that includes Port of Veracruz, Alvarado, Mandinga & other coastal towns 100 miles north & south. This is the area that has the most Spanish & Cuban influences with a heavy focus on Rice, White Wine, Olives, Capers, Pimientos, Parsley, Bergamot Mint & other typical Valencian ingredients. Totonac Region… north of the Jarocho Region, it’s the origin of Vanilla. While there is a still a predilection for seafood, the flavoring includes a lot more dried chiles, corn masa & wild greens. Isthmus Region… south of the Jarocho Region… its an area that synthesizes the coastal cuisines of The Yucatan, Chiapas & Oaxaca with some African accents and a heavy focus on marine & forest foods, Acuyo aka Hoja Santa… and is characterized by lots of grilling & smoking as well as a heavy focus on fruits. Mixtec Region… this is an arid, cold, highland landscape shared with Puebla… which a unique infusion of Central African influences (Yanga the legendary black warrior escaped slavery to form a stronghold in the mountains where he led a Robin Hood-esque life.. attacking Spanish convoys to finance slave rebellions). A number of mainstream Mexican dishes resulted from the blending of African & Mixtec traditions including Tinga, Mondongo (both names derived from the Niger-Congo languages spoken by all of Mexico’s blacks), Stuffed Plantain Cakes & True Yams in Honey. Anahuac Region…. Includes Xalapa, Xico, Coatepec, Orizaba, Cordoba & others. This was original a place founded where Totonac, Otomie & Nahuatl cultures came together… and is much more like the Mexico-Pueblan cuisine that dominates the Mexican culinary landscape with a focus on Moles, Guisados, Trout & Mountain Fish, Chayotes & Squash etc., Huastec Region… skirts the eastern side of the Sierra Madre mountain range, lush mountainesque area shared with the states of San Luis Potosi, Hidalgo,Queretaro & Puebla with lots of Tobacco, Sugar Cane & Palm Heart cultivars, Cattle, Sheep & Goat grazing. There is a greater focus on red meats (particularly on Closed Pit Barbacoas) , tamales, heirloom potatoes, squash & cactus fruit. The thing about Veracruz is that there is lots of rivalry & provincialism within its regions (For example in the classic Son Jarocho piece “La Mujer Inconforme” the caller takes a dig at Xalapa in the last verse by singing that he went to Rome to see if the women were good lovers, and he encountered the pope who he asked what he thought about Xalapa….and “the Holy Father responded for all the world to hear, Xalapa can go f#$% itself, only Veracruz is beautiful”… Only Veracruz is Beautiful (refering to the Port not the State) is a common slogan used by Jarochos. With that said… I would expect any Veracruzano eatery to be focused on a specific region. Here are the famous specialties by regions to look out for: Jarocho Region > Pescado a la Veracruzana / Veracruzano (generally a Red Snapper in Tomato, White Wine, Olive, Capers, Thyme, Oregano, Bay Leaf & Serrano Chile based broth) > Arroz a la Tumbada (Soupy Rice with a mix of fresh seafood… reminds me of Louisiana cuisine) http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/mfoto.php?phid=632 > Chayotes stuffed with Chorizo, Bacon & Chicken Totonac Region > Tlatonile (Sesame Seed, Leek & Compeano Chile based Mole) http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/mfoto.php?phid=641 > Black Beans with Wild Greens & Mushrooms in Chipotle and Hoja Santa http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/mfoto.php?phid=636 > Chilpachole (Spicy chipotle & epazote broth used to cook a variety of shell fish primarily Crabs… as well as vegetables) > Pavo Relleno (Roasted Turkey stuffed with Xoconostles & native Herbs) > Tlapique de Huevera (Fish Roe Sack steamed in Corn Husks with Epazote,Nopales, Serrano Chiles & Xoconostles Isthmus Region > Pompano wrapped in Hoja Santa and Grilled, Steamed or Roasted http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/mfoto.php?phid=634 > Minty, Brothy Rice with Turtle Meat > Local Perch grilled with a squeez of Lime & Chile Sauce… served with Yucca & Malanga (African root vegetable) Mixtec Region > Armadillo or Catfish in Adobo Sauce > Chicken poached in Hoja Santa / Serrano Chile caldillo > Mondongo (mixed tripe, pork feet & chorizo in an Ancho-Mint based broth with cabbage, garbanzos, plantains & Spanish garnishes) Anahuac Region > Langostines with Green Chiles http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/mfoto.php?phid=633 > Chilehuate Tamales (Sauteed Chiles, Scallions & Squash) http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/mfoto.php?phid=637 > The fruity moles in the style of Xico http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/mfoto.php?phid=638 > Green Mole with Hoja Santa, Mint, Green Beans & Chayotes http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/mfoto.php?phid=642 > Ancho Chiles stuffed with Dried Cheese > Salads of spicy, pickled fish or chayotes Huastec Region > Lamb Barbacoa http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/mfoto.php?phid=639 > Salpicon de Cecina… sautee of jerkey, onions, chiles & lime juice Recipes Antojitos: http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/ingles/scriptphplen.php?sid=288&len=In Beverages: http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/ingles/scriptphplen.php?sid=286&len=In Desserts: http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/ingles/scriptphplen.php?sid=289&len=In Entrees (Spanish Only): http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/scriptphp.php?sid=350 & http://www.uv.mx/Popularte/Esp/scriptphp.php?sid=352 Mon Aug 13 11:52:40 -0700 2007 42572 Eat_Nopal 1 2842134 This is defititely more than I could ask for! Thanks for taking the time to put this to words EN - most appreciated. You are truly a treasure trove of knowledge....fascinating. The diversity of Mexico continues to amaze me. Great anecdote about the internal state rivalries : )! Do you know the name of the minty turtle dish - hope to try that one day... Fantastic music on the Son de Madera site btw!! Mon Aug 13 16:21:59 -0700 2007 2841075 14086 kare_raisu 2 2842232 Arroz con Tortuga Its the same basic dish as an Arroz con Pollo would be in the Jarocho area... but as you get south in the state near Tabasco... you know you are no longer in Kansas... the meats become more exotic. A popular delicacy in both southern Veracuz & Tabasco is Pejelagarto (Alligator Gar.... a huge fish that resembles an alligator... once common in parts of Texas & Northern Mexico.... its so big fisherman usually smoke it so they have some for weeks). Also common in that region are Armadillo, Conch, Monkey and Deer. BTW... I will burn you the Son de Madera album when I get a chance... and let you know the next time they are in town. Mon Aug 13 16:50:38 -0700 2007 2842134 42572 Eat_Nopal