430430 Sun Aug 12 06:17:03 -0700 2007 5 3 California 0 2837596 As part of our annual visit to the Bay Area from our Ontario home base (with not a single decent Mexican option within reasonable driving distance), we spent a few days in the Monterey region, ranging from Santa Cruz to Big Sur. When I booked our accommodations in Salinas, and the family asked why we were staying there, I said, "Taco trucks," and that was all that was needed. My post on this board inquiring about logistics led to a generous offer from Salinas native Melanie Wong to be our chowguide. At five o'clock on the afternoon we arrived, we met Melanie at Mister Taco, run by Julio Montes. Melanie had worked out a complicated schedule to show us the diversity of what was available in town, but in phoning and stopping by earlier in the day to check logistics, she learned that Mister Taco would be closing early, so we went there first. He was out of the tripas by the time we arrived, so I substituted carne asada, which I don't normally order. This was good, chopped fine and dressed with lime, but the real star was the al pastor, enhanced by a thin red Sonoran-style salsa (photo below). A couple of family members had the quesadilla de mais with al pastor (he was out of carnitas as well), which was almost too good to be true, and certainly not first-date food. We used a lot of napkins. There is a wide, empty sidewalk beside the truck, which is on a side street off a stretch of E. Market dominated by car dealers and repair shops. A few plastic chairs, a condiment table, a nice mural on the large blank wall opposite, and you have the makings of a lively street scene, enhancing the quality of life for local workers and drawing others to the area. But I suppose by-laws don't permit this. It was clear we were going to fill up well before we had exhausted what was available, so we abandoned the mariscos course and went to Mayra's for the vegetable options. On arrival, we met Mayra herself -- she's the daughter of Digna Hernandez who runs the truck, stationed in a short alley lined with parked cars and leading to a muddy field. Melanie said that Digna got a lot of press because she was open in the afternoon when reporters were prowling, but I think the real reason is her warm personality (which comes through even though she apparently doesn't speak a word of English, and the closest thing I have to Spanish is tourist Italian) and her evident pride and care in every aspect of her operation. The little condiment window had a stunning presentation of salsa in a molcajete (photo below), matched only by the flavour of the salsa itself. I can't begin to describe this: complex, vibrant. We ordered gorditas with nopales and spinach, and she suggested we try a huarache as well. Through the ordering window, we could see her pinching off balls of fresh masa and patting out the various forms. While she worked, Melanie explained that Digna tries to use as little oil as possible. This paid off in the griddled nopales, which vanquished all my memories of limp, slimy, canned preparations I've had elsewhere. The dry-griddled cubes of cactus were simply the best nopales I've ever had, including all the versions I've made myself. The huarache wasn't entirely successful, being a little too thick and leaden in spots, but the gordita (photo below) really hit the spot. It was amusing to watch Melanie (who apparently has about as much Spanish as I do) trying to converse with Digna (who is a woman with whom one is drawn to converse) about various food options. Digna suggested a "Mexican" hot dog, and Melanie agreed. This is not my style of food, but Melanie thrust half of it into my hands, and I had to admit that it was addictive, the sum exceeding the parts. As a final surprise, Melanie handed me a tripas taco she had quietly ordered, featuring a handmade tortilla. It was terrific, and I inquired about the spicing, but Digna either didn't understand or pretended not to. If I had secrets like these, I would guard them, too. It was time for dessert, so we went to Julio Valdez's cart, set up on E. Market itself in front of an empty storefront next to a vacant lot. But he was out of the sweet corn tamales! A pork tamale was scant consolation (nice filling, masa a bit dry). There was however, a happy ending waiting: the champurrado. My wife took one sip and promptly commandeered the entire cup for herself; we ordered another one to share. This is liquid comfort food, smooth, warming, with a fine balance of cinnamon, vanilla, chocolate. The kids made me swear that I would try to recreate it at home. As we passed the cup around and took sips, people would pull up in their cars for a cup, or for one of Julio's loaded hot dogs. It was a good thing I was full at that point. We thanked Melanie and asked her to thank her parents for yielding her so soon after her arrival in town, and we were off to look at Mi Pueblo market. We wandered through the aisles trying to keep out of the way of the real shoppers -- we did buy a few supplies for later in the week. The kids, who are equipped with separate dessert stomachs, bought Mexican sodas, a selection of brightly-coloured items from the self-serve panaderia, and, at my suggestion, a cube of tres leches cake with cajeta. This was about five inches in each dimension, barely fitting into the clear plastic clamshell. It cost $1.99, and was ridiculously good. We will return, to have our mariscos course, to try carnitas, lengua, and cabeza, and to meet more of the vendors. That is, if Salinas city council doesn't asphyxiate the taco trucks with needless regulations. There is room for improvement -- none of these trucks offered aguas frescas, and Melanie mentioned an initative to promote healthier options -- but the goal should be to strengthen and support, not to restrict. No one bothers the catering trucks peddling pasty sandwiches and day-old microwaved burgers in high-tech industrial parks. It's a pity they can't pass by-laws prohibiting bad food. --PR Sun Aug 12 06:17:03 -0700 2007 21643 Prabhakar Ragde 1 2837657 Great report. Clearly you are eating well on the Central Coast. Sun Aug 12 07:00:29 -0700 2007 2837596 40270 Ed Dibble 2 2838855 Thanks to you and many others who posted. On our last visit to the area several years ago, we used guidebook recommendations, and didn't fare nearly as well. Eating well makes it more likely that we'll return sooner. --PR Sun Aug 12 17:41:27 -0700 2007 2837657 21643 Prabhakar Ragde 3 2838885 PR, your great report is a benefit to us all, I consider myself a "semi-local" and am incorporating many of your comments into my upcoming visit this weekend in narrowing down my limited time passing through so it's the most productive dining crawl in this formerly passed over food mecca. Sun Aug 12 17:58:41 -0700 2007 2838855 18150 PolarBear 4 2839228 You should definitely make use of rworange's Google map: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=108185290246656733987.00000112e99f91a2d353a&om=1&ll=36.677781,-121.635818&spn=0.058236,0.106602&z=13 The truck I regret missing most is El Grullense -- ironic as it was closest to our hotel and we pretty much spotted it every time we drove in and out during its operating hours. Melanie's reports, as well as the ones from the various Chowhounds who singly and in teams have posted here, are quite valuable and can be found with a search. From our experience it is clear that you have to be flexible -- make sure you have second choices ready at each stop! --PR Sun Aug 12 20:45:26 -0700 2007 2838885 21643 Prabhakar Ragde 1 2837803 re your last two sentences: WELL said. Thanks for your great report--must have been fun. Sun Aug 12 08:32:57 -0700 2007 2837596 11234 toodie jane