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Quebec trip in September

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I am planning a trip to Quebec in September. We will stay for 3 days in Quebec City and for 5 in Montreal. In Quebec City we will be at a B&B, so breakfast (full) will be provided. So I need recs for
-- Good lunch and dinner places in Quebec City
-- Good Breakfast, lunch and dinner places in Montreal
Our B&B is 5 minutes ouside the walls of the old city in QC. I would like one nice "splurge" meal for each city.
I understand there is some good Italian to be had in Quebec. Maybe some nice regional Italian?
Always up for other ethnic cuisines too (Thai, Mexican, Indian)
I have been researching poutine and have some good places in mind for that but would appreciate any further help (Iunderstan that Au Pied du Cochon is doing a foid gras version?!)
Our hotel in Montreal is the Chateau L'Argoat on Sherbrooke (524, east)
Also, we have found it to be a good idea to do a guided tour when we first arrive in a city to get acclimated. Any recommendations for tours (I have noticed they do boat tours. Anyone have experience with these?) ?.

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  1. Many people will say that there is no good food in old Quebec City (inside the walls). There are definitely MANY terrible places, but a few are truly great:

    I would HIGHLY recommend L'Ardoise in Quebec City, by the old port - 71 rue Saint Paul. Not overly expensive (about $120 for two, including 2 glasses of wine & 1 dessert) - and with fantastic food. I went in 2003, and again this year. Both meals were very memorable. Semi-traditional dishes, fresh produce, all perfectly prepared.

    Another GREAT restaurant is on the north side of Rue Sainte Ursule, between St-Louis and Dauphine. Can't remember the name, but the menu outside lists grandiose meals like a 5-course dinner, etc. The roof inside has a stained-glass ceiling. It's truly exceptional, fine cuisine. About $250 for two people.

    There was surprisingly good food at Le Patriarche, 17 Saint-Stanislaus (very accessible location). They aim at fine dining, and do a pretty good job of it. My main course of 3 game meats (wapiti, bison and wild boar) was quite good. Under $150 for two, including wine.

    Although the restaurant looks really cheesey and the servers are in costumes (ugh) - Aux Anciens Canadiens is really good. 34 rue St-Louis. They do very traditional Quebecois dishes, like tourtieres and maple pie, and feves au lard. And they do it extremely well. Great food, slightly Disney atmosphere. Not expensive. Give it a try!

    'Ethnic' restaurants in Quebec City are terrible, but there are a number of Moroccan places.

    The brunch at the Hotel Frontenac is amazing, for $45 each. Really incredible.

    For Poutine around Quebec City, try any Ashton's location. They're all over the place, cheap & fast foody.

    Although not restaurants, if food interests you, I have 2 suggestions. Check out the market in the old port of Quebec City - it's on St-André. Absolutely gorgeous stuff. Also, there's a little grocery store that claims to be the first one in North America, called JA Moisan, outside of the walls, on St-Jean. Really fun and impressive. In Montreal, Jean-Talon market is a great one to visit.

    You can take a hydrofoil from Montreal to Trois Rivieres, and probably to Quebec City also!

    Have fun!

    4 Replies
    1. re: bellywizard

      Thanks for the info bellywizard. You gave me a lot to work with. I have been trying to refresh my knowledge of french so that I won't have any trouble. Although, judging from making reservations, everyone is pretty english-friendly. Even though the restaurant looks cheesy and the servers are in unifrom... I will probably try Aux Anciens Canadiens.
      --John

      1. re: johnmart11

        My french is pretty good - and I still found some menus a bit challenging (because food terms are kinda specific & quirky). Having a little dictionary with you, or even printing some food terms off the internet, might come in very handy. Enjoy!

        PS - For casual food, Pub Saint-Alexandre on St-Jean just inside the walls (the 'busy area') is popular and good - with traditional sausages and some nice, simple regional foods.

        1. re: bellywizard

          Oh yeah, good tip. I was also going to try to find out some web sites that might have some specific Canadian French variations and possibly some slang (just to know but probably not to use). I have gotten a lot of menus and have found some items that I had not expected such as deer meat. So much to know. I have been enjoying reading the other threads, especially the recent one on Bakeries. I hope to try some regional baked goods on this trip too. Thanks for the help.
          --John

          1. re: johnmart11

            Written French is very similar throughout the French-speaking world, and of course there are regional variations, words and expressions, but please don't try to speak Québécois slang - it sounds silly in the mouths of anyone else, unless you have lived and worked in Québec for years and learnt it on the streets.

            Not much Mexican or Indian food in Québec - there are far more North Africans and Vietnamese (former French colonies) in Québec.

    2. There are many GREAT restaurants in the city and inside the walls as well. When the Grand Prix comes to Montreal the Ferrari people come to Quebec to eat at, http://www.portofino.qc.ca/ or try this http://www.cremaillere.qc.ca/menu.html (excellent

      )

      Want a really cool place? Try the Voodoo Grill, http://www.voodoogrill.com/index1.php
      The night clubs are downstairs and this is where the eye candy hangs out on Friday and Saturdays...

      The boat tours on the Dufour group http://www.dufour.ca/en/index.php, they also own a few hotels. You can get a package deal. Go whale watching in Tadoussac on one of their cruises. You'll love it.

      1 Reply
      1. re: execk2

        Thanks to all that responded. We leave Friday a.m. (7 september). I have been watching the other threads and researching. Looking forward to having a great time. Wish I'd known earlier about Osheaga Fest. Went to Lollapalooza and Austin city Limits Fests last year. Both great venuea and shows. Will keep an eye out for next year's Osheaga...

      2. i recently had one of the very best meals of my life (no joke!) in Montreal at Cocagne on St Denis. I went on a recommendation, and was blown away. I live in New England, but had the best oysters at Cocagne. They specialize in local ingredients, and do a kickass cheese assortment.. the Blue Star cheese was astounding. It's a pricey place, but not too bad. For me, two people plus wine, apps and cheese cost $300.