Disappointments -- 900 Grayson, Champa Garden, Sushi Sho, Bui

[Prabhakar Ragde]

This is a churlish post.

We went for a late lunch at 900 Grayson and were seated (after a wait of about twenty minutes) at the single large table near the bathroom. I was on the outside corner, and though I am not large and was sitting as close to the table as was comfortable, the servers going to and fro from the back patio bumped me repeatedly. Service in general was brusque. I wouldn't let my daughter get a 200ml bottle of Orangina for $3, but the Nesbitt's peach soda sounded okay. I figured a place that talks about doing their best to source local, organic, sustainable, etc. wouldn't serve pop that was just sugar and chemicals. I guess the lurid pink colour and the retro bottle fit their aesthetic. At least my glass of draft IPA was real.

Three of us, on an eternal pulled-pork quest, had the Miss Piggy and the General. Now, I realize that I am not going to get authentic pulled pork at a place like this, but I thought they would at least do something interesting with it. "Sweet and gloppy" was my daughter's description. It was supposedly served on an Acme bun, but I've never had anything this ordinary from Acme Bakery. Did a Roadrunner deliver it? Slaw was ordinary, fries were ordinary.

The other two had the Ladyboy salad, which they said was "good" (I get more adjectives out of them when they have cause). I tried a couple of forkfuls, and it was good, but not exceptional. Apart from the micro wasabi greens, it wasn't anything I couldn't have gotten at a decent Vietnamese place for almost half the price. I suppose we should have ordered the chicken and waffles, or the burger. But we didn't want those, and if that's all that 900 Grayson is good at, then it's not worth the hassle.

I called Champa Garden in the middle of the afternoon to reserve a table at six, but when we arrived, they had no idea what I was talking about. It was okay, because there were only two other people dining, though a party of loud teenagers came in partway through our meal. The reluctant-teenage-daughter service was beyond incompetent; mine (who were present) could have done better. I ordered the dishes, and then, forgetting what I had said, asked, "How many have I ordered?" She said, "Three appetizers and three main dishes," though in fact I had never mentioned the Laotian papaya salad, so she only had five written down. One of those, the larb, never arrived, and was crossed off the handwritten bill when we got it.

That left four dishes, of which the first was the fabled rice ball salad. It was good, though no revelation. It came with a ridiculous amount of lettuce and coriander on a separate plate. Usually there is not enough, so I shouldn't complain, but it was difficult logistically; one had to pick up all the coriander in one's left hand to take a lettuce leaf off the plate, and then try to get one or two sprigs of coriander out of the tangled mass (home cooks know what I'm talking about).

From the specials board, we ordered the Pla Panang, the duck curry, and Champa Garlic Vegetables. The first one, with catfish fillets, I'd read about on Chowhound. I've never had a panang curry this runny and pallid. It pretty much soaked through the catfish fillets before we had a chance to serve them, and we didn't let them sit around. The duck curry was the usual red curry with roasted duck, but the duck was in huge pieces and had just been put into the curry at the last minute, not simmered so that it became more tender and flavourful. It was difficult to get off the bone with the implements we had, and too big to nibble discreetly.

But the worst dish was the garlic vegetables, which my daughters christened "Furry Green Carpet". This was some sort of leafy vegetable, slightly fuzzy, limp and overcooked-looking on the plate, yet tough to chew. It was soaking in its own extruded liquid and dotted with irregular, coarsely-chopped pieces of garlic.

The one bright spot of the evening was that the Thai karaoke machine playing in the corner malfunctioned halfway through.

While I was in Silicon Valley for a couple of days, the rest of the family tried to go to Sushi Sho for dinner. They arrived shortly before 5:30 and there were four other people in line, but they turned out to be two couples each joined by another couple, so eight people were ahead of them when the doors opened. The eight were seated, one party at a time, and then the woman peered out at the four of them and said, "It'll be a very, very long wait. There is only one sushi chef." Her tone and body language apparently indicated that my family should go away, so they stepped over to Bui next door. They report that a couple of the old dishes from Saigon City were as good as ever (the banana flower salad, the caramelized sea bass, and the tiramisu), but the newer dishes they tried were unremarkable, and the service was pretty poor.

Okay, I'll stop complaining now. --PR

[john1953]

Wow, all reviews are helpful. But with respect for your disappointment, I have had much better experiences in 4 visits in two weeks, to Champa Garden.

I visit NE Thailand ("Issan" region) and Laos annually and believe me this food is pretty authentic, and delicious. All that's missing is the Mekong River and the hot weather. It is normal for eateries in that region to have televisions on and children playing, like being in someone's home with family; its a cultural thing that we USA foodies don't always get.

Green Papaya Deli on International Blvd. has few dishes, but nails authentic Issan food as well. Cheaper, smaller place, even more laid back vibe.

We are so spoiled in the Oakland, Berkeley and Albany area with great ethnic Asian foods.

[TerriL]

I haven't had great experiences at 900 Grayson either, but I know others on this board love it. One time I got the burger, which I thought had way too much going on. The different ingredients might have worked, but the barbecue sauce was so cloyingly sweet that it absolutely smothered everything. Another time I ordered a main salad. I'm not sure what it was called, but it was vaguely Asian, and had duck in its name. The flavors were really off: bitter, bitter greens, super-sweet dressing, and only 2 small pieces of duck.

Yes, service was inattentive, but I didn't really care. I get the impression that since 900 Grayson has its regulars, they feel no pressure to change or improve anything. I may have come both times on an off day, but still.

[culinarian]

They should replace the host. He's usually hissy and flustered, but was downright rude at a busy lunch. The food is good and creative, but the size of the kitchen doesn't make it easy on them, and there are some "rushing" flaws--like, undercooked shrimp, raw where it didn't touch the grill, undercooked noodles, like not enough circulating water in the boilng phase.
They have a good spirit, good design, good food, and fun. But that host ruins the mood.

[Robert Lauriston]

The host at which restaurant?

[theeatenpath]

I'm sorry to hear about your experience at Grayson! While it's not one of my favorite places to eat, I have to say that the demon lover really is worth the hassle, even if it were the only thing done well there. I am, however, a sucker for good gravy. I haven't tried any of the dishes you sampled, but I really enjoyed the recently added chicken fried steak and eggs over biscuits, the corned beef dish, and the basic breakfast. I've never heard a complaint from my friends, who hit the joint much more often, but they've never had the pulled pork (and I have no trouble believing you on that one). If you ever end up there again, I hope you have a much better meal.

[lmnopm]

I've been to 900 Grayson 3 times. The pulled pork wasn't bad, the demon lover was good, and I am not quite sure what I had the other time, but methinks it was a burger. I don't love the place, but it is perfectly fine. Service has been spotty.

[kimberlya]

are you from the area? we could give better suggestions i bet.

i've only had 900 grayson for breakfast, and at hours when i didn't have to wait at all (10 am on a weekday). otherwise, it's much too crowded from the local business-lunch crowd (thank bayer, et al)

[Prabhakar Ragde]

I'm not from the area, but I was a student at Berkeley, and I've visited for several weeks a year for the past twenty years or so (plus I review Chowhound carefully before each visit). I've been having much better meals and will gradually report on them. I just wanted to get all the sour stuff over with. --PR

[oakjoan]

P.R. prepares wonderful reports every year when he brings his family to our neck of the woods. He is no neophyte so I figure he got bad food and snippy service.

I've been to 900 Grayson several times and have been less than impressed a couple of those times. I also have encountered poor service, e.g, a bunch of staff people standing around joking with customers while we waited. The food has been pretty good, but I wouldn't say it was fabulous.

I had a sort of Moroccan lamburger once that had a very sour, off taste.

Champa Gardens, however, has been a favorite. Partly, I'll admit, because it's in my neighborhood. We've had a couple of misses there, but once we developed some favorites, the food is consistently good. Sounds like happened upon the place when things were chaotic or the chef was out sick.

[susancinsf]

Actually, based on my visits I can't think of a better recommendation than Champa Garden, for its type of food and in its price range, so in that instance at least, no, I am not sure we could have given PR better recommendations (though admittedly I have never been to 900 Grayson nor to Sushi Sho, and I believe I have also read similar complaints about waiting and lack of service at Sushi Sho on this board).

I am sorry Champa Garden was such a disappointment. Have to say, I don't remember the Thai karoake machine on any of my visits, though it seems like the sort of thing even I, with my aging memory, would remember: either it wasn't blasting or it is new (?). And like Ruth, I've enjoyed the pla penang catfish...

I've only made reservations once, but they were honored no problem, though as you say, it usually isn't that crowded especially if you go early.

and umm....I hate to add to your crankiness, but I am a bit surprised you ordered beer. Unless things have *really* changed for the worse, the house wine at Champa Garden is Navarro....

I hope it was just an off night, or something, and will have to get over there soon myself. Glad we'll be hearing better news from now on!

[Prabhakar Ragde]

The karaoke machine is in the corner next to the beer cooler, on the same side of the room as the kitchen. Big screen, Thai subtitles, irritating Canto-pop styled music. My mistake on the wine; it didn't look like a wine sort of place, so I didn't even look at the options. That would have helped.

I don't think they would have refused to honour the reservation; it was more as if the teenager didn't understand what I was saying when I said I had called to reserve.She sounds like she grew up here so I am not sure what the issue was. My thick Canadian accent, perhaps? It was an awkward start to what turned out to be an awkward evening.

So, the catfish dish. I think the problem with it is the same as with tempura udon. If you put something fried into something liquid, it will get soggy. Fried fillets would stand up to a thick panang curry, but this was soupy enough that only the very top of the fillets had a chance of remaining crisp, and they didn't seem to be particularly crisp to begin with. --PR

[susancinsf]

machine must have been off whenever I've been, or my memory really is going. I vaguely remember a screen, but certainly no music or (shudder) anyone singing along. that would be bad.

Navarro is just about the only wine option at Champa Garden, IIRC, but it is certainly a pleasant surprise to find it there.

[susancinsf]

since this post got bumped up again, just have to mention that yes, I've been back at least twice since August, once with just hubby and once with a group of about ten, and it was great both times....no loud music, and yes, there was Navarro....

[lintygmom]

I went to Champa for the first time and was overwhelmed and delighted--so much amazing food! I had a drug rep bring it for a lunch to the office and everyone was enraptured--delicious even tho it had travelled in plastic containers! And then, because of these wonderful experiences, I dragged some friends and family away from N. Berkeley. And it was mediocre. Dull, dull, dull. I could feel their indulgent tolerence towards me. Don't you just hate that?

[Robert Lauriston]

Champa Garden and 900 Grayson are among the Berkeley-Oakland area restaurants most frequently recommended by Chowhounds.

Sushi Sho has a reputation for long waits and a crazy / bossy chef.

[Prabhakar Ragde]

We've been to Sushi Sho twice before, and knew about the eccentricities in service, but this was too much. If they're only going to let eight people in at a time, they should post a sign to that effect. My wife reported that all the tables which had been there on our last visit were gone, and there was a sign halfway down the sushi bar saying "This section closed".

I don't know what happened at Champa Garden. I didn't go in with a chip on my shoulder, given what I'd read about it here. If anything, I was more skeptical about Wood Tavern (to be reported on shortly) and was won over. As for 900 Grayson, I'm certainly willing to believe that we didn't order the best dishes. --PR

[MorganSF]

"The one bright spot of the evening was that the Thai karaoke machine playing in the corner malfunctioned halfway through."

OK, that did make me laugh!

[rworange]

Sorry for your pain, but yeah, that made me chuckle as did a lot of the report. Glad I'm not the only one underwhelmed by Bui. There's a new sushi joint on Solano in the old Beauregard's location. No one has reported on it though.

[kc72]

http://www.chowhound.com/topics/419916

[Morton the Mousse]

I've had consistently good food at Grayson with rare exception, but I have never tried either of the dishes you ordered. Had a wonderful plate of ono, mashed potatoes and vegetables on Friday. The breakfast foods are always delicious, as is the fresh fish of the day, soup of the day, onion rings, market vegetables and, of course, the burger and chicken and waffles. Sorry you didn't have a better experience; sometimes you just order the weak links on an otherwise strong menu.

[Ruth Lafler]

Wow. Sounds like you had an uncharacteristically bad day at Champa Garden. I love that penang catfish dish, and it's never been either pallid or soggy. What day of the week was that? Maybe the regular chef was off.

[Prabhakar Ragde]

It was Saturday night.

Panang curry is supposed to be simmered slowly until thick. One recipe I use has the coconut milk added in several stages so that it is always at a low bubble like lava.

Did I mention that they were out of Beer Lao, and I was offered Phuket instead, which was skunky? --PR

[Robert Lauriston]

I didn't think much of Champa's panang, wouldn't order it again.