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Aug 10, 2007 08:00 PM

Where does one eat in the 11th or the Marais?

Hi all,
I am going back to Paris on Aug 20th after many years and my family is staying in the 11th - not an area that I know. Any suggestions for restaurants (that might be open) near there or the Marais?
What is the best guide book for good little restaurants that aren't too expensive?
Also has anyone been to Petit zinc lately or one of my old favorites Trou Milou on the quai near Metro St Paul?

If I don't respond to your suggestions it will be because I am new to this chat room stuff and haven't figured out how to do it yet!
Thanks so much!

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  1. These places are a nice Paris walk from Bastille. Except le Bistrot du Dôme, which is only a block away from Bastille. Since you’re in the area, it might be fun to wander through the Bastille Market.

    Le Repaire de Cartouche
    8 Blvd Filles du Calvaire 11e
    Metro St Sebastien Froissart
    Fronts on the Blvd. but the rear is on rue Amelot. That's downstairs and that's where you want to be. I enjoyed just watching the action, even though I don't speak French. Great food, which is the point, after all.
    le Bistrot du Dôme
    2, rue de la Bastille
    75004 PARIS
    Metro Bastille A block off of Place Bastille. Serves fish. Very comfortable, not stuffy. The menu on a blackboard.
    Biche au bois (À la)
    45, av. Ledru-Rollin
    Paris 12e
    A few blocks from Gare de Lyon. A small place. Don't confuse it with the joint on the corner, right next door. We enjoyed our meals there and they are not nose in the air people, just folks. I think Yul Brynner is the owner and greets, seats, and serves in the evening. This is one of the places that closes in the afternoon.
    Bistro Amelot
    74 rue Amelot
    Metro St Sebastien Froissart
    This place is probably not on any lists (yet) but everything we ate there was excellent. The place is very comfortable and the bar area is sometimes lively with live music. A piano player and tap dancer one night! And a separate dinning room.

    I pulled this from a previous thread.

    4 Replies
    1. re: yayadave

      ???? How long has it been since you were there? Yul Brynner has been dead for a number of years!

      I thought Bistro du Dome was in the 14th, catty-corner from La Coupole. Has it moved?

      1. re: ChefJune

        Re Yul Brunner: Check out the pictures of Bertrand. You should see this guy work the room!

        Re Bistro du Dome: Actually two different joints. Here's a discussion.

        1. re: yayadave

          heheheh! looks like he resembles Telly Savalas as much as Yul Brynner!

          and thanks for straightening me out of the B du D.. I didn't remember there were two.

          1. re: ChefJune

            Well, however it worked out, we enjoyed Telly's Place and the Wrong du Dome enough that we ate there more than once. TeeHee And they were in the neighborhood!

            You mentioned La Coupole. The first time we were in Paris we ate there. We disliked the place so much we did not stay for dessert. Even the French waiter raised his eyebrows at that one!

            This trip I did more research on the web than in the guide book. Between this board and eGullet I managed to hit some very nice places with only one or two clinkers.

    2. In the Marais:
      Rue de la Verrerie @ Rue des Mauvais Garçons
      Unpretentious, traditional French, delicious, very affordable. Menu until 10, then normal prices.

      1. On the bd Parmentier, there is the Chateaubriand, one of those places that everyones talks about these days. A video review (in French) there:

        I would also like to point out that l'Ambroisie is in the Marais.

        I don't know if it is the best guide, but the Lebey des Bistrots parisiens is very reliable and explicit (menus extracts, prices of whole meals, simple rating).

        2 Replies
        1. re: souphie

          I really liked Chateaubriand a few years ago. A friend of mine in Paris said it was no longer run by same people, but if souphie's review is recent, maybe it's even better now! Sketchy neighborhood, IIRC. I would take a cab.

          One of my favorite little restaurants in the Marais is Le Hangar. I've brought many a discrininating palate to the place, and the fresh, simple, flawlessly executed fare is a revelation. In fact, come to think of it, my avatar is a digital image of the decadent foie gras dish I had there last time.

          Figure out the directions BEFORE you go. It's off on a dead-end side street that you will never find if you just leave your hotel with a "general" sense of the route.

          Here's a description I sent to a friend recently:

          Le Hangar
          12, impasse Berthaud
          (Close to the Rambuteau stop on the Metro)
          Main plates about 20-25 euros
          Closed Sunday and Monday
          No credit cards

          This was in the Marais, in an almost-hidden cul-de-sac off rue
          Beaurbourg, right next to (or almost next to) the Pompidou Centre.
          Excellent, simple French food, with great first courses built on fresh
          ingredients. Friendly staff, and great wine prices. Although we've
          been to Paris several times in recent years and tried many places,
          this is one we'll return to next time.

          Haricots verts salad
          Grilled baby artichoke appetizer
          Marinated fresh sardines
          Ravioli with eggplant-cream sauce
          Filet mignon with mushroom-wine sauce
          Seared foie gras served on olive-oil mashed potatoes

          1. re: wittlejosh

            I go to my long standing friend at Le Café Crème, Rue de Birague (off Places des Vosges) for whatever, a meal, a snack, a drink. Casual atmosphere, decent prices.