Where does one eat in the 11th or the Marais?
I am going back to Paris on Aug 20th after many years and my family is staying in the 11th - not an area that I know. Any suggestions for restaurants (that might be open) near there or the Marais?
What is the best guide book for good little restaurants that aren't too expensive?
Also has anyone been to Petit zinc lately or one of my old favorites Trou Milou on the quai near Metro St Paul?
If I don't respond to your suggestions it will be because I am new to this chat room stuff and haven't figured out how to do it yet!
Thanks so much!
On the bd Parmentier, there is the Chateaubriand, one of those places that everyones talks about these days. A video review (in French) there: http://francoissimon.typepad.fr/simon...
I would also like to point out that l'Ambroisie is in the Marais.
I don't know if it is the best guide, but the Lebey des Bistrots parisiens is very reliable and explicit (menus extracts, prices of whole meals, simple rating).
I really liked Chateaubriand a few years ago. A friend of mine in Paris said it was no longer run by same people, but if souphie's review is recent, maybe it's even better now! Sketchy neighborhood, IIRC. I would take a cab.
One of my favorite little restaurants in the Marais is Le Hangar. I've brought many a discrininating palate to the place, and the fresh, simple, flawlessly executed fare is a revelation. In fact, come to think of it, my avatar is a digital image of the decadent foie gras dish I had there last time.
Figure out the directions BEFORE you go. It's off on a dead-end side street that you will never find if you just leave your hotel with a "general" sense of the route.
Here's a description I sent to a friend recently:
12, impasse Berthaud
(Close to the Rambuteau stop on the Metro)
Main plates about 20-25 euros
Closed Sunday and Monday
No credit cards
This was in the Marais, in an almost-hidden cul-de-sac off rue
Beaurbourg, right next to (or almost next to) the Pompidou Centre.
Excellent, simple French food, with great first courses built on fresh
ingredients. Friendly staff, and great wine prices. Although we've
been to Paris several times in recent years and tried many places,
this is one we'll return to next time.
BEST DISHES WE TRIED:
Haricots verts salad
Grilled baby artichoke appetizer
Marinated fresh sardines
Ravioli with eggplant-cream sauce
Filet mignon with mushroom-wine sauce
Seared foie gras served on olive-oil mashed potatoes
These places are a nice Paris walk from Bastille. Except le Bistrot du Dôme, which is only a block away from Bastille. Since you’re in the area, it might be fun to wander through the Bastille Market.
Le Repaire de Cartouche
8 Blvd Filles du Calvaire 11e
Metro St Sebastien Froissart
Fronts on the Blvd. but the rear is on rue Amelot. That's downstairs and that's where you want to be. I enjoyed just watching the action, even though I don't speak French. Great food, which is the point, after all.
le Bistrot du Dôme
2, rue de la Bastille
Metro Bastille A block off of Place Bastille. Serves fish. Very comfortable, not stuffy. The menu on a blackboard.
Biche au bois (À la)
45, av. Ledru-Rollin
A few blocks from Gare de Lyon. A small place. Don't confuse it with the joint on the corner, right next door. We enjoyed our meals there and they are not nose in the air people, just folks. I think Yul Brynner is the owner and greets, seats, and serves in the evening. This is one of the places that closes in the afternoon.
74 rue Amelot
Metro St Sebastien Froissart
This place is probably not on any lists (yet) but everything we ate there was excellent. The place is very comfortable and the bar area is sometimes lively with live music. A piano player and tap dancer one night! And a separate dinning room.
I pulled this from a previous thread.
Re Yul Brunner: Check out the pictures of Bertrand. You should see this guy work the room! http://www.restoaparis.com/fiche-restaurant-paris/a-la-biche-au-bois.html
Re Bistro du Dome: Actually two different joints. Here's a discussion.
Well, however it worked out, we enjoyed Telly's Place and the Wrong du Dome enough that we ate there more than once. TeeHee And they were in the neighborhood!
You mentioned La Coupole. The first time we were in Paris we ate there. We disliked the place so much we did not stay for dessert. Even the French waiter raised his eyebrows at that one!
This trip I did more research on the web than in the guide book. Between this board and eGullet I managed to hit some very nice places with only one or two clinkers.