Soup dumpling confusion
- jgg13 Aug 9, 2007 10:46 AM
Several years ago I ate with some friends in NYC chinatown named Shanghai Joe or something like that. I was given "soup dumplings", which quite literally were dumplings filled with soup.
Now, since then I've read various threads here about XLB and they sound like they should be the same thing (since people refer to them as 'soup dumplings'). I've had them @ Mary Chungs (under the guise of 'small steamer buns' or whatever it is) as well as Hei La Moon. In both cases, the XLB was more like a "really juicy meat dumpling" in that the filling was mostly meat permeated w/ a soupy broth.
So is what I had in NYC also XLB? Are these just variations on a theme? And either way, is there somewhere here in Boston that I can get what I had in NYC? I've seen the usual names in the various XLB threads, but curious if my experience there will be like what I had at MC & HLM or what I had in NYC
A NYC hound here. What you had at Joe Shanghai (soup dumplings) was the same as xiao long bao (XLB). The latter was just the pronounciation in Mandarin of the dumplings putting into English. Soup dumplings and xiao long bao are the same thing.
The versions that you had, I believe, were not variation of what you had in NYC. They were just not as well-made (sorry) as the ones in Joe Shanghai. It is a highly praised skill to make juicy plump XLB with thin skin that doesn't break. Everything from the meat mixture, the amount of soup, the freshness and amount of oil in the soup and meat, the thickness of the dumpling skin, to even the number of folds at the top of the dumplings are all the things that need to be considered to evaluate whether a soup dumpling is good or not (i mean, of course, for experts and foodies; normal people won't go through all the examination before eating!).
I can't comment on the XLB in Boston, but to be honest, the XLB you had at Joe Shanghai in NYC will be below average when compared to the ones in Asia like Hong Kong and Taiwan. Even in those places the quality varies greatly and there are not many places that can consistently create heavenly XLB. Certainly not in NYC. I hope some hounds in Boston can provide you with some great options locally!
First of all about nomenclature: it is the case that XLB can sometimes be referred to by a variety of different names. The "tang" does refer to the soup that forms inside a well made XLB. "xie-fen" (ground crab) XLB refers to a tastier-than-usual mix-in which is more or less required when I'm out for XLB.
It is possible that XLB was the original reason that I became a foodie in the first place (my parents would drive into Chinatown in NYC, an hour each way, just to eat, and I grew up taking it for granted that of course you'd fuss like that just for good chow). However, it wasn't until I tried the real deal in Shanghai that I really saw the light.
I remember really liking the XLB at Joe's Shanghai, but the time I was enthralled with them was before I had actually been in China. I have been back two or three times to the Flushing branch in the past few years and been disappointed the last few times. Not that they are pseudo-XLB in the manner of the aforementioned Mary Chung's, Hei La Moon (or for that matter even Qingdao Garden), but they didn't have that blend of delicacy and crowd-pleasing soup. Shanghai Laofandian and Yeah Shanghai haven't been that spectacular either, the last times I've been there. The closest I've come in NYC has been Shanghai Cafe, which are actually pretty good.
In greater Boston, at this point in time, I'd say that Wing's Kitchen in Chinatown and Shanghai Gate in Allston are at least comparable to Joe's Shanghai and probably a touch better. Not quite Shanghai Cafe level, and definitely not Hongkong or Shanghai level, but respectable enough for this XLB addict to get his periodic fix.
Shanghai Cafe impressed me thoroughly on the basis of one run so far (which was actually a takeout run prior to getting on the Fung Hwa back to Boston). Their XLB held up to a bus trip and *microwaved* well. I've never seen that before in XLB, so that's mighty impressive.
My last trip to Wing's impressed me more than my last trip to Joe's (you can read the comments at http://www.chowhound.com/topics/39882...). I don't think I'd put either place in the Shanghai Cafe class, at least based on that one trip, but they are both solid, they do some stuff very well, and they're perfectly honorable alternatives if you're in this neck of the woods.
I can understand your confusion. Many places that serve these dumplings don't really have that much soup in them. The ones at Taiwan Cafe and Wing's Kitchen in Chinatown have what you're looking for. Nice amounts of soup and everything. There was a recent XLB thread that discusses the pros and cons of various locations in the city,
Well, the confusion is understandable. A xiaolongbao is shaped very differently from what we typically call a dumpling. It's rotund, sits on a flat bottom, and the folds that seal it fan out from the center. A standard dumpling (jiaozi) -- the kind used to make a potsticker, for instance -- is crescent-shaped, lies kinda on its side, and is sealed by nipping / tucking along the top. To complicate things further, the term for bun, 'bao,' otherwise refers to something xiaolongbao-shaped that's usually larger and has considerably thicker skin.