428753 Tue Aug 07 07:38:37 -0700 2007 5 12 Boston Area 0 2820943 Last night L. and I headed to L'Espalier for the four-course paired dinner. Upon our arrival, we were checked in at the lower entrance before being directed to the second floor. We were seated at a large round table in front of the bow window in the front room. The table sat 10, and six people were already seated. Introductions all around, before the waiter asked if we wanted champagne and gave us a choice of bottled or iced water. We didn't elect to get the champagne, though everyone else at the table did. Each place at the table had the evening's menu so I didn't pull out the notepad I had brought to take notes. First pairing: As the first wine was being poured, Eric [I think his name was], the sommelier introduced the first wine, a 2004 Vieux Lazaret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Blanc. I had never tried a white from this region before, and it contained many of the characteristics of the heartier reds. This was paired with "Grilled mushrooms with goat cheese and asparagus terrine with a sage vinaigrette." The terrine was plated with a bitter green salad atop a very toasted piece of bread. This was very delicate and delicious. The asparagus was almost raw giving the terrine a combination of textures. Very cheesy start to a dinner that had a full cheese course. Second pairing: a 2006 Château Valcombe, Rosé, Coteaux du Ventoux. Again, since I am not much of a rosé drinker this was a wonderful change of pace. It was paired with "grilled summer shellfish pissaladiere with saffron rouille." Since I am allergic to shellfish, my dish had a substitution. This dish had a rectangular pizza-like base, topped with mache, and tender small corn kernels. L's dish had grilled clams, while mine seemed to have smoked salmon, until I ate some of it. I think they were cold, cooked turnips, but I can't be sure. Cold smoked salmon would have been better. The saffron flavor overwhelmed the mache a bit, but the corn kernels were perfect. This dish was the least successful of the four, lacking a clear focal point. Third pairing: 2003 JL Chave, "Mon Coeur", Côte-du-Rhône. I have actually had this wine before, though a 1999, and this bottle was far superior to my previous experience. This red was complex and vibrant, without being harsh. It was paired with "Grilled lamb with confit tomato and pommes lyonaisse." I was served three large slices of rare lamb. The lamb sat on top of a red wine sauce and a bed of cooked spinach. One cherry tomato was served on the lamb, while three halves of roasted potato circled the dish. The lamb was 'chewy' to cut, but absolutely melted in the mouth. My only criticism of this dish was the meagre amount of tomato and potato. I would have preferred a slightly more even distribution of ingredients with a little less lamb, but man was this good. The wine loved lamb, and this was a most satisfying course. Fourth pairing: 1999 Château Espiers, "Cuvée Tradicional", Gigondas. I was delighted to see a Gigondas paired with the cheese course. I have always enjoyed this pairing at home. The cheeses were a Vermont Fiddlehead Tomme, La Montagne de Bethmale and a local Crater Lake Blue. The cheeses were plated left to right with three thinly sliced pieces of bread. The Tomme was wonderful. Creamy with a very subtle flavor. The Bethmale was basically a smoked gouda from Holland. Dry with a lovely finish. The blue cheese was very mild for a blue. I would have preferred something with a little more zing to match the wine. We elected to share a dessert and have some espresso. The chocolate fondant cake with espresso scented ice cream was beyond decadent. As you opened the cake, chocolate flowed onto the plate. The strawberry anglaise on the plate could not compete. I didn't taste it at all. Unfortunately, our coffee arrived as our cake was almost gone. We had given up on the coffee, and eaten most of the cake. Our waiter explained that this is why they were moving to the Mandarin. In the current location, they only have room for one espresso machine! With the coffee, they also brought three-tiers of petit fours. I tried three. A geletin, lemon square which had the texture of tofu, a tiny lemon pound cake, and a macroon. The pound cake and macroon were very good, but the tofu thing didn't strike my fancy. The service was excellent. My allergy [which was in the computer with my reservation] was managed gracefully. My dishes came out a little ahead of the others, but it was done matter-of-factly. I would have hated too much fuss. Dishes were cleared only when the entire table was finished. I was sitting at the entrance to three other diners given the positioning of the table, so plates and silverware passed my nose for each course, but always with an 'excuse me.' In fact, I was thanked several times for being so pleasant about this "intrusion." When it was time for courses to be delivered, an army of servers would appear, and then quietly disappear into another area of the restaurant. Two people at our table were celebrating birthdays, so their deserts arrived with festive candles, but thankfully, no one burst into song. We did receive the wrong bill which our waiter found more embarrassing than I did. He quickly corrected the error. Our table mates were all very interesting. I always enjoy meeting people outside my normal circle, but perhaps communal eating isn't for everyone. L. found that the amount of noise in the room became too loud after about the second glass of wine, and began to have difficulty picking out the conversation. Again, I didn't have this problem. The dinner, four courses, four glasses of wine, one dessert and two coffees with tip came to $155.00. An expensive night out, but a very good value. Tue Aug 07 07:38:37 -0700 2007 59258 smtucker 1 2820979 One of these days, I'm going to find the time to visit this event. It sounds grand. I was fortunate to have lunch at L'Espalier a couple of weeks back. Everything was lovely. And the food was impressive (I enjoyed seared scallops atop a rich, saffron risotto; my wife had the BLT; we spilt a 1/2 cheese plate, which was amazing.) Tue Aug 07 07:44:42 -0700 2007 2820943 11093 Bob MacAdoo 1 2821281 This is an excellent report; thank you for taking the time to share it. The price seems overly reasonable for the experience you had. I must try to get there soon. Tue Aug 07 08:48:50 -0700 2007 2820943 15217 gini 2 2823682 I had lunch there early in July and it was delicious and an excellent value for about $25. I would love to try the wine dinner at some point. Tue Aug 07 18:41:56 -0700 2007 2821281 98965 marchperson 1 2827141 so it is possible to get special dietary needs accommodated at these meals? that's great news! that's the only reason I've passed on them. also, did you guys interact much with the other diners? was it as communal as they describe? Wed Aug 08 17:24:31 -0700 2007 2820943 27375 beforesunrise 2 2827487 When I called to make a reservation, I asked about accommodating my allergy. The gentleman on the other end of the phone couldn't have been more pleasant and assured me that a shellfish allergy was something that they could manage. Later, I learned that at the Monday staff meeting, the food allergies were discussed and the alternates were planned. I was not the only 'special' person in the room, but we were not seated at the same table. As to conversation, yes. I had wonderful conversations with everyone at the table. I could tell you what each of their names were, where they lived, how many children, and professions. I am not naturally gregarious, but at our table, everyone made an effort to contribute, which made it easier for me to chat. Perhaps people who choose these communal dinners are willing to put the effort into making it work? Or maybe I was just plain lucky! Wed Aug 08 19:46:36 -0700 2007 2827141 59258 smtucker