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Jul 28, 2007 10:55 AM

Agra Indian Kitchen review (long)

It's been two weeks since a door hanger inauspiciously announced the arrival of a new Indian restaurant. But since wife and I have been hooked on Indian food for thirty-some years, there we were the next evening.

Agra Indian Kitchen is on the west side of Lincoln Blvd between Venice and Washington Blvd, a few doors down from a Hertz Local Edition and a used car place. You won't see its sign if you are in your car. It's a small room, with six booths and two tables, not fancy but clean. But this is a find, folks.

We ordered our usual check-this-restaurant-out choices of Chicken Saag and Lamb Vindaloo plus a vegetable dish, this time Malai Kofta (spelled Kupta on the menu), and being hungry added Vegetable Samosas. Papadums, rice, and salad are included with each item. The Samosas had a nice crispy crust and a plain potato filling with a few peas; they worked well with the accompanying tamarind and mint chutneys. No flaws, but nothing exceptional.

But, oh, the main courses!! I knew we were in for something special when the Lamb Vindaloo arrived without a trace of tomato in it. That's how this Goanese dish is supposed to be, fiery hot, vinegary, and impossibly complex in spicing, but not red. The only restaurant in Southern California at which I'd had it that way was Addi's Tandoor in the South Bay, because Addi is from Goa. Agra's Lamb Vindaloo was superb, one of those dishes where each bite tastes a little different and the spices bloom in your mouth.

Chicken Saag is chunks of chicken in a spinach-based sauce. In other restaurants the spinach may be sandpaper-coarse, or pureed like the contents of a Gerber's jar, or buttery smooth because it is half butter. The Agra version was smooth without having been pureed and was surprisingly light, almost as if made without butter. The chicken was all good-quality breast meat. Gentle spicing underlaid the spinach. This was among the best versions we have had of this dish.

The Malai Kofta was also a standout. A decadently-rich cream sauce with moderately-sharp spicing enveloped round fritters (the Koftas) that were packed with a variety of vegetables. Agra's fritters could have been a bit more moist, but the cream sauce was so good that we didn't want to leave a milligram of it in the pan. We were spooning it over the amply-provided rice long after the Koftas were memories.

Our beverages were Mango Lassi and Spiced Hot Tea (often called Masala Chai). Both were well-made, fresh, and pleasant. Somehow we found room for a good shared dessert of Mango Kulfi, the Indian ice cream. (There's always room for ice cream.)

This feast would normally have set us back about $44 with tip, but the door hanger gave us 20 percent off.

Intervening travel kept us away till ten days later. This time we ordered Lamb Pasanda, Chicken Madras, and a Mixed Vegetable Curry. The Lamb Pasanda had complex and deep spicing and was thoroughly satisfying. Chicken Madras was hot, with somewhat less spice complexity but pleasant tomatoeyness. The Mixed Vegetable Curry was simple, probably the only dish from the two meals which I would not order again.

All in all, this little place is serving up a remarkable level of Indian food. If you should visit, one word of caution: Park on the west side of Lincoln or its side streets. Don't even think about wading across the unending high-speed sea of traffic on Lincoln.

Agra Indian Kitchen
2553 Lincoln Blvd.
Venice-LA-Marina del Rey 90291
Dinner 7 days, 5 pm - 10:30 pm
Call re lunch hours (no buffet)

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  1. I wonder if this is affiliated with the Agra in Silver Lake. When that place opened, I thought it was very good, but to my taste, the quality has declined the longer it has been open.

    3 Replies
    1. re: DanaB

      Agra in Silverlake has sadly gone down hill since the original chef, Mohamed, left. I ran into him quite a while back and he had a falling out with his partners and was no longer a part of the business, which is a shame because he is such a nice guy and a great cook too.

      1. re: rednyellow

        Agra Indian Kitchen, Venice is not Affiliated with Agra Cafe Silverlake at all.I asked owner of Agra Indian Kitchen about it.His name Ali,nice & very friendly.By the way It has 3 to 5 spaces of parking in the rear.

      2. re: DanaB

        To my knowledge there is no relationship. The chef is originally from London, cooked here for awhile, then did something else. He decided he liked cooking better and restarted at the Agra I reviewed. He is even making the Kulfi (Indian ice cream) himself.

      3. I was just about to ask if anyone had tried it! I've been disappointed with the lack of good Indian food in this area so I'm glad to see your review. They deliver too, so I'll be trying them out soon.

        5 Replies
        1. re: hrhboo

          Have you ever tried Annapurna on Venice Blvd (near Motor) in Culver City? It's a good, reliable, tasty place to grab a dosa.

          1. re: glutton

            I haven't, thanks for the rec! I've often driven past it but when I'm in the area I usually end up at Samosa House. I'll give it a try.

            1. re: hrhboo

              I'm normally adverse to lunch buffets, but I've gone a couple times to their Saturday lunch buffet and have been impressed with the variety and freshness of the food. However, I usually stick with their dosas.

              1. re: hrhboo

                Annapurna is South Indian, which is quite a different cuisine from that which Agra Indian Kitchen offers. It is the second Annapurna restaurant; the original is in the Little India area of north Orange County. There are reviews of Annapurna elsewhere on this board.

                I've only been to a half-dozen South Indian restaurants in Southern California and a few more in London, so I know the cuisine less well, but I had a good experience at Annapurna. It's totally vegetarian; the food can be quite bland or very hot, sometimes at the same time (bland idly and spicy sambal come to mind).

              2. re: glutton

                also, Samosa House offers really terrific southern indian food (vegetarian), albeit self-serve and the food is served on styrofoam.
                be sure to try their mango/banana/pistachio soup.
                their jackfruit is excellent as is their okra.
                their kidney beans are supurb.
                their spicing is not 'hot' spicy, but very DEEPLY NUANCED savory spicy.

            2. Lee,

              Thanks for the wonderful and detailed review - I've all but given up hope for good Indian on the Westside, and will likely give it a spin Sunday evening.


              1. Yay! I concur with the other posters here about being really happy to read a great review of a westside Indian restaurant! thanks for posting about it.

                1. i did a little take out from there this past week and i thought it was great too!