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Venice; 4 nights

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Aroina Jul 27, 2007 09:27 PM

I am looking for a range of wonderful dining experiences whilst in Venice, from inexpensive to moderate to high. Suggestions would be great. Would like to avoid typical tourist places if possible in Venice, and ideally want atmospheric surroundings, or situations.

I have 3 x lunches and 3 x dinners to arrange....

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  1. jen kalb RE: Aroina Jul 28, 2007 07:38 AM

    Venice is truly a wonderful experience, with a lot of good eating (contrary to what you might hear) - you will get some responses - but I urge you to do a search of this Board and read past posts as well - below is a link to a compilation somebody did -
    also if you scare up a copy of Michele Scibilia's extremely reliable local guide to the Osterias of Venice (sometimes available in the UK readily available from book vendors in Venice) you can see pix and descriptions, with a map. Do wander around Cannaregio, the farther reaches of Dorsoduro, Santa Croce around the Rialto Market and Castello - many of the better less touristy places are in those areas rather than in San Marco and the other major tourist routes..

    http://www.chowhound.com/topics/387852

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      deangold RE: Aroina Aug 3, 2007 07:41 AM

      La Frasca
      Vini di Gigio
      Fiaschetteria Toscana
      La Cantina
      Bar La Marca
      Cantina do Mori
      Gli Schiavoni
      Bancogiro
      Da Pinto

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        Aroina RE: Aroina Aug 3, 2007 09:51 AM

        Thank you Jen and Deangold, really appreciate your thoughts, great info, cannot wait.

        1. d
          DaleJ RE: Aroina Aug 3, 2007 01:35 PM

          I'll give you one of my favorites that I may not have posted before. Anyway, speaking of the reaches of Dorsoduro, Avogoria is at Dorsoduro 1629 (of course, a worthless address). If walking from Accademia toward Campo Santa Margharita, after you go under the sottopassagio at the entrance of Campo San Barnaba take your first left and walk until you go over a bridge. Avogoria is a few hundred feet ahead on your left. The interior is very competent stark modern (be certain that you visit the toilet room) and the chef is from Puglia, so the cuisine tilts that way. I haven't been in a couple of years, but last time it was worth the long walk. Closed, I think, on Tuesdays.

          On a completely different note: Osteria Vini Padovani is at Calle dei Cernieri, 1280. Again, a rather useless address. However, this time before you go under the sottopassagio you must take a right up and down a few steps, a right and left down a tiny calle (you can almost touch opposite walls at the same time). It will be on your left a hundred or so feet away. Look for a bare light bulb over the door. Its a local hangout at lunch and the half dozen or so tables are covered with butcher paper. If you order pasta it is made by the lady across the calle. There is a display of what is served that day. Just point. All cooking is done by microwave. Its a trip! It closes around six. I haven't been here for a couple of years either, but will be next month.

          1. Joe H RE: Aroina Aug 5, 2007 08:16 PM

            At the moment the best restaurant in Venice is the one Michelin star, Met. Alle Testiere, for me, continues as the second best.

            1. k
              kenito799 RE: Aroina Aug 6, 2007 12:03 PM

              wow there are a lot of venice threads. Here is my trip report from this past April, including our impressions of Avogaria.

              http://www.chowhound.com/topics/396880

              We ate well but it's so expensive...i will try to get an apartment with a kitchen the next time I am in Venice (preferably in Dorsduro) and do some of the cooking myself with the amazing stuff for sale in the markets.

              1. Sid Cundiff RE: Aroina Aug 10, 2007 05:04 PM

                The Met is indeed good. And quite expensive. I eat here once every time I'm in Venice.

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                  dlgc RE: Aroina Aug 10, 2007 05:26 PM

                  Da Ivo is our all time favorite in Venice....yum

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                    The Passionate Palate RE: Aroina Aug 12, 2007 04:53 PM

                    I agree with deangold's recommendations. Also, try Linea d'Ombra in Dorsoduro on the Zattere (more modern take on local foods with an excellent wine list) and Vecio Fritolin in Santa Croce. The latter is difficult to find - it is at 2262 Calle della Regina - but worth the hunt. It specializes in the very traditional seafood dishes of Venice and is named after the fried fish that used to be sold in paper cones in the old days. Order the fritto misto. It is a humble place filled with almost all locals. As a matter of course, as someone else said, stay away from eating in the area around San Marco and explore the outer areas. You can't go wrong in the wine bars - for an ombra and cicchetti (a glass of wine and finger foods/appetizers). Cantina do Mori that deangold mentioned is a historical one. The other one he mentioned, Bancogiro, has two parts - upstairs a restaurant and downstairs a tiny (standing only) wine bar. I think the wine bar is the better of the two for exceptional cicchetti and great wines by the glass.

                    Buon Viaggio!
                    For more links to Venice, you can check out my website and blog -
                    blog: www.passionatepalate.blogspot.com and
                    website: www.passionatepalatetours.com

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                      MarkC RE: Aroina Aug 12, 2007 09:43 PM

                      I posted here a couple of years ago about two restaurants we especially enjoyed. One was Ai Gondolieri, which has already been abundantly praised here. It is an attractive, old-fashioned style ambience, with delicious, intensely-flavored meat specialties. A nice change of pace from all the traditional seafood .

                      The other, about which I left a query here a day ago, was Muro. It is a popular wine bar near the Rialto, with a small restaurant on the second floor. They do a sort of modern take on the traditional seafood, and we enjoyed our meal immensely. They specialize in smoked seafood, which the owner said he did himself, and these were used to great effect in the signature dishes (I remember a pasta carbonara with smoked seafood instead of pancetta). When I was there the execution was a bit wobbly, and I wasn't sure they were still around, but one of the grizzled veterans on eGullet recently gave it high praise, so I'll be going back in a few weeks. Decor is minimal and the charm is provided by the happy buzz from the bar patrons standing below in the campo enjoying a glass of wine. Great food and the place has a nice, neighborhood feel to it.

                      1 Reply
                      1. re: MarkC
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                        Indy 67 RE: MarkC Aug 13, 2007 04:26 AM

                        I understand why you remember pasta carbonara with smoked seafood. We ate this exquisite dish with smoked swordfish in a restaurant in Ravenna. Since it's more likely that I'll make a third trip to Venice than a second trip to Ravenna, I'm thrilled to learn I'll be able to eat this delectable dish again.

                      2. p
                        PPP RE: Aroina Aug 15, 2007 06:31 AM

                        I am going to vouch for Osteria Vini Padovani is at Calle dei Cernieri, 1280. This is the perfect place. I went to venice this summer with my whole family wife and this was one of the best places we ate. It's not fancy. It's not the high end of the scale. But the food was blow your mind and not that expensive. We found it by mistake (as often will happen in venice) ate lunch and then explained how we wanted typical, good venetian fare. They prepared a dinner for us 2 days later. An entree of mussels and clams, linguini and clams (which I'll be calling for the recipe, simple but delicious) and grilled fish with langoustines. All this was not expensive by venetian standards. Don't do what the DaleJ says to just point. Stike up a conversation and explain what you want. He asked us for a deposit because they made it special for us and want to make sure that you came back. It wasn't much. And it was well worth it.

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