Dave’s Rock Cod Tacos a Mateo Granados (Healdsburg)

[Melanie Wong]

This morning I got a late start for my first visit this season to the Saturday Healdsburg farmers market. The one space in the lot to park my car was right next to the Yucatan Tamales booth run by Mateo Granados. Bigger this year, and no more camp stoves. The portable set-up now includes a full-size commercial range fueled by propane with six burners and a flat-top!

Image of Yucatan Tamales booth and day’s menu -
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1139/865644987_33511b13d1_b.jpg

At 11AM, the many colorful booths at the market were calling to me and at first I thought I should shop first before they started to shut down. But the growl in my tummy said, “feed me” and I got into the line to order. Lucky thing, as shortly after I got my food, the announcement went out that only huevos and vegetale tamales were still available.

One thing about Mateo’s food is that each time I see the prices, I wince. I’ve been moving up the ladder from the initial $3 tamal to $5, then the $8 lamb torta, and now I was faced with $12 fish tacos. But after I take a bite, everything I’ve tried has been absolutely worth the shekels, so fish tacos today for me. With an agua fresca, $3, my brunch tab for eating off a paper plate with plastic utensils on asphalt came to $15. But what a bonnie brunch it was! And, once again, totally worth it.

I hadn’t seen an order before making my decision, and was relieved to see that the serving was two tacos per plate, plus a refreshingly delicious side salad of halved tiny tomatoes and cubes of cucumber. Mateo was making the fish taco orders himself with a helper tending to cranking out the hand-pressed tortillas as needed.

Image of plate of Dave’s rock cod tacos –
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1386/865645075_1f8aa328b2_b.jpg

Each taco had three thick strips of deep-fried rock cod filets sourced from Dave, the fish guy at the market. These were lightly dusted and completely greaseless. Three was actually too much to be able to fold and eat the tacos out of hand, so I could try one strip from each with just the pumpkin seed sauce. Impeccably fresh, the fried fish was quite firm and while not overcooked, a little rarer would be my individual preference. The basil-flecked pumpkin seed sauce has to be one of the best things I’ve tasted this year. The tender sprigs of young and gloriously fragrant basil garnishing each taco were the chef’s unique inspiration on this creation. With a squeeze of lime, the crunch of the chopped greens, pungent bite of the red onions, and thin but very chewy and elastic tortillas combined with the fish, basil and delectable sauce made for a very memorable repast.

I picked up a flyer for Mateo’s next monthly dinner, information copied below. I’ve not been to one of these special events yet and asked for more details. I found out that the tables will be out on the patio to take in the view of the valley. Each round table seats 8 people and are shared. Reservations are needed but one can arrive at any time between 6pm and 9pm. The wine pairing, available at additional cost, will be a rose’ and a chardonnay. You’re welcome to bring a special bottle of wine to share, and I didn’t ask what the corkage fee might be. Cocktails are $8 and usually include some special margaritas.

If anyone attends, please be sure to report back!

The Missing Link Kitchen Returns
Chef Mateo Granados’
Modern Yucatan Cuisine
Thursday, July 26
Menu

“Papadzul” – Yucatan pumpkin seed dip served with corn tostada
Tiger prawn ceviche with Redwood Empire Armenian cucumber, pumpkin seed cracker
Grilled Black Sheep pork chop marinated in achiote adobo served over Soda Rock tomato salad, natural jus
Yucatan style dulce de pan with cinnamon+raisins served Dry Creek peach ice cream
$48
Cocktail bar opens: 5:00pm, Dinner seating from 6:00pm – 9:00pm

Tayman Park Golf Course
http://www.taymanparkgolfcourse.com
927 South Fitch Mountain Rd.
Healdsburg
RSVP: 707-433-2338
[e-mail]
Cash Only

Healdsburg Farmers Market website -
http://www.healdsburgfarmersmarket.org/

Mateo Granados Catering
http://www.mateogranados.com/
Healdsburg Tuesday and Saturday farmers markets and Sebastopol Sunday farmers market

Previous posts on Mateo Granados -
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/316394
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/39507
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/318658
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/330391

[kare_raisu]

fantastic post as always and glad to hear you had a great breakfast . I too have the same reaction at the prices but I guess it is possible to charge that in sonoma county. But to me - if it the quality is there - why not splurge once in a while?

[LikeFrogButOOOH]

I sure am jealous, Melanie. I have been meaning to eat more of Mateo's food for a long time now. Glad to hear you enjoyed it!

[Melanie Wong]

That's an excellent goal in life! Every time I'm in the vicinity of his stand, I make a beeline for it and haven't had anything twice yet. I think it is a good idea to observe for a few moments before ordering to see what Mateo is cooking with his own hands (now that he has someone else to take orders and collect money). The time I tried the chilaquiles, the lady who prepared it seriously overcooked and dried out the scrambled eggs even though I asked for them "suaves". When I refused the plate, Mateo intervened and remade the eggs himself for me to spec.

[Melanie Wong]

Last weekend a suckling pig tamal ($5) for breakfast at the Saturday morning Healdsburg farmers market, my first taste of this since last summer and also a chance to check out kare_raisu's negative comments. As the first food of the morning, the black beans and rice side didn't set off a bland-meter, rather I found them a comforting contrast to the main event. Lovely vine-ripened heirloom tomato salad with basil sourced from Soda Rock farms. The tomato sauce spiked with floral habanero chili tasted like a fresher and spicier version of the mild red sauce served with Salvadorean pupusas. And, I love those pickled onions with anything.

However, the tamal itself was not what it should be. Here's what I think the problem is. This was the first time I've been served from the warming tray assembly line. My earlier tamales have all been pulled freshly cooked out of a steaming cauldron. Maybe this one was made the same day, but the time it spent on the warming tray dried it out even though it was still in the original banana leaf wrapper. As you can see in the photograph, the overly stiff and dense masa actually cracked.

Photo of suckling pig tamal plate:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1281/932861296_7cab7dea5f.jpg?v=0

Even though the suckling pig (sourced from Black Sheep farms) filling was delicious, it couldn't swing without the silky smoothness of the masa as its dance partner. Guess I'll have to be sure to order only when I can see the steamer in action.

Thumbs down on the tamales -
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/413509

Thumbs up on the tamales and fish tacos -
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/415833#2798630

North Bay Bohemian on Mateo Granados:
http://www.metroactive.com/bohemian/0...

[Melanie Wong]

Linking:

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Mateo Granados
399 Business Park Dr, Windsor, CA