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Jul 21, 2007 09:07 AM

Street food in Rome

I'd love recommendations for street food in Rome. Cheap, tasty, fresh and not for tourists. Could be from a market or grocery, too. Where do locals eats who don't have enough money for a sit down dinner?

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  1. pizza bianca at the Forno Campo de' Fiori. walk around the outdoor market while you are chewing this fabulous flatbread dressed with olive oil and seasoned with just the right amount of sea salt. this is not a tourist-free zone but that's simply a fact of life in rome.

    deb and i take an apartment off the campo de' fiori in the spring and visit the market every day for fresh produce. it's a pleasure living "on the economy."

    2 Replies
    1. re: steve h.

      I want to be you and Deb. I am heading there on Thursday and will be at the Campo de' Fiori on Saturday morning. Any tips on what to look out for in addition to the pizza bianca? Got a great CH tip for porchetta sandwich.

      1. re: EATTV

        the outdoor market is quite a show. cruise the stalls and load up on fruits/whatever looks good and then walk through the piazza farnese to the via giulia. stroll the via giulia as if you live there (one of the nicest residential streets in rome). have your porchetta sandwich when you wander back to the campo (or the cured meat platter with a chilled tocai). either way, sit outside under the umbrellas because the city is mighty warm this time of year.

    2. When visiting San Giovanni in Laterano, we crossed the large square (multiple bus stops on several sides of the square) on the side of San Giovanni to go to Cannavota restaurant. They were hosting a large party and could not accoomodate others, so we were out of luck for lunch there. But right next to that restaurant is a small grocery store/bakery which offers a wide variety of pizas and focaccia at very reasonable prices. They will heat them up for you if you wish. The one I liked best was a pizza with fresh mixed greens (not cooked). The assortment changes rapidly. There were even some small plastic tables and chairs (not many) for those who want to eat inside. Their soft drinks were among the least expensive we found in Rome. Three of us ate and drank a nice lunch for about 12 euros.
      Also in the Piazza Santa Maria Maggiori is a department store on one corner of the square which has a supermarket in the basement. They offer hot and cold dishes much as any deli would: meats, cheeses, focaccia, pizzas, etc. and their prices for bottled wines are very good. We ate some delicious porchetta from there last December.

      1. Locals will very rarely seek an alternative to a sit-down dinner and those wishing to eat cheaply can stay home, so that's not really your question. The standard alternative to an expensive sit-down dinner is a sit-down pizza or your local trattoria. Anything else, especially within striking distance of Campo de' Fiori, is likely to be aimed at tourists or internationalized young people. But that is in the evening. During the day there are many alternatives to restaurant lunches. To avoid the specifically tourist stuff, do not buy anything from a truck/van or street stall except within a market and don't go to bars that look at major monuments, or if you do (some of them are actually good), stand at the bar, don't sit at a table. Pizza al taglio is a favorite cheap food, which it is acceptable to walk around with. Likewise gelato. Otherwise people sit or stand in one place to eat. Bars have a range of sandwiches and some have a tavola calda, i.e., hot food served more or less cafeteria style. You can always buy food in shops, markets, and supermarkets, or ask to have sandwiches prepared (usually quite rudimentary panini with salami, mortadella, prosciutto, or cheese) in the shop. There are plenty of parks where you can go to eat your little picnic.

        1. Pizza Florida, which is across the street from the where all the stray cats are (I think it's Torre Argentina) is the best Pizza a Taglio we found. Lots of varieties.

          3 Replies
          1. re: vvv03

            Yes, it's on Largo Argentina at the corner of via Florida, and you're absolutely right. It's very, very good.

            1. re: vvv03

              Note: Pizza Florida is closed on Sundays

              1. re: vvv03

                yummm I lived down the street on Via Arenula for four months last spring and frequented Pizza Florida all the time! I loved the variety...also good and in the same neighborhood is Pizza Art, popular with the locals. Just head towards Via Arenula (the street with the tram) and cross over to the other side. Walk towards the river and it will be on your right before the river (at least a block or two before, if memory serves me right). Enjoy!

              2. General Question: There is no equivalent to the Paris street crepe in Rome?


                3 Replies
                1. re: Chinon00

                  Unlike Naples, say, Rome is really not a street food town. There are relatively few places where one sees people standing up and walking around eating, with the exception of gelati, roasted chestnuts and the only other place I really remember people eating this way, the Forno, mentioned above.

                  1. re: jen kalb

                    I would agree with this- except if it gets colder, throw in the nutella crepes. People do eat standing up, but it's usually inside the tavola calda, as far as I can tell. There's a place called mondo arancini for example just outside the Piazza del Popolo with no chairs, but a massive menu of delectable fried rice balls and plenty of counters. Piazza a taglio and sometimes tramezzini get the portable treatment but it's still not as common.