ShikaSfrn Jul 2, 2007 08:07 PM

Reporting back from SF/Napa/CIA!

Hey all,

Talia here (the over-eager college grad), reporting back from my excursions to the CIA and the Bay Area!

I'll try not to make this post incredibly long, but that is no guarantee ; ) Either way, it won't be all over the place, as you all perceive me to be, haha. (edit: ok, it's long... but I think hopefully interesting and readable?)

DAY 1:

We had planned a champagne flight at the Ritz to kick things off, started by Bar Crudo. But... things took a turn. Firstly, a three hour delay. Secondly, we accidentally got on the Bay Bridge due to poor GPS navigating/tired parents. It could have been bad. But alas, I decided to get in the CA groove of things, and suggested we eat at the many places in Berkeley. After consulting my handy dandy Zagat (not always completely accurate, but useful nonetheless) and calling a few places, we got reservations at Lalime's, which was very cozy, low-key, and refreshing after a long day of traveling. It still had the elements of an upscale restaurant, without being fussy or loud. Not the most stellar and exciting menu I've ever seen initially, but still very solid. First impression: good choice, especially under such last minute conditions.

And then there were the tomatoes. Let's get one thing straight here, I live on tomatoes. I think I incorporate tomato in my diet somehow at least every other day. I revere the tomato. And yet, I don't think I've ever quite experienced the tomato truly until Lalime's. It was here that the Californian tomato, the true essence of what it means to grow the purest, freshest, most local ingredients (ala Alice Waters), was now understood by my parents as well. We decided to split 4 appetizers and one entree, since we were all starving and we like to sample many things, rather than eat a ton of just one thing. Plus, the appetizers looked much better, in my opinion. The best decision by far, as stated, was to start with a salad of Cherokee purple and cherry tomatoes with pickled shallots and fromage blanc. Subtle, flavorful, simple, and harmonious. Incredible. With this salad, they also brought out a baked Pablano chile stuffed with zucchini, sweetcorn, and fromage blanc. This too was excellent--very fresh and delicate. Next were the more substantial appetizers to built upon the veggies. 2 perfectly seared scallops on a bed of toasted pumpkin seed sauce. My only regret at the time was that there was not more of it... very delicious. Lastly, I told my parents to be adventurous and try the sweetbreads, which initially turned off my dad. They were crisped, with watercress and a slow roasted tomato with other veggies and bread crumbs toasted on top. I'm not a fan of sweetbreads, but I have to say they were pretty good... not my favorite, though. Not enough can be said of the tomato, once again. Lastly, they brought the entree-- a grilled Hawaiian tuna with North African spices, with a roasted pepper and preserved lemon salad. On the menu, this looked amazing. In reality, it didn't quite live up to expectations. It was good, but after the amazing appetizers, we all agreed that it was our least favorite. The tuna was cooked very well, but the spices/seasoning was off, and the roasted pepper salad had no hint of preserved lemon and a tad too oily. The cappuccinos (even my mom's decaf) were perfect, and just the right temperature. The service was also great--friendly, but not overbearing... and she suggested a very nice wine to compliment. Overall: great way to kick off the trip, and confident that this would set the tone and foreshadow what was to come.

DAY 2:
Breakfast at the hotel was very generic (we booked some cheap motel the first night because we knew we would get in at midnight). And then...CIA! When we got there, we were disappointed to find that they were serving breakfast because sadly, we had partially filled up in the morning. No worries, we ate their fresh baked pastries and fresh fruit regardless. The fresh squeezed OJ was very nice. The admissions counselor gave her shpeal, and then a chef did a cooking demonstration interweaved with some theory, as well. Very interesting, and extremely seductive. Aside from a simply beautiful campus, the facilities and resources are unparalleled. Not to mention that the staff are very willing to help, enthusiastic, incredibly nice, and had some pretty crazy credentials. We took the tour, and I also talked to a few of the chef/teachers, the admissions counselor, and the tour guide. I'm not sure what will happen in terms of me going there (lots of things to consider, not going to get into it now), but to say that it was enticing is certainly an understatement.

Next, we had lunch at Taylor's Refresher. ADORABLE. And great vibe, loved sitting outside while basking in the sun. With each experience, I knew my parents were that much closer to understanding CA's appeal to me. They had the Ahi Burger's, and I had the Fish Taco. Both hefty portions, but not overwhelming. Both perfectly cooked and seasoned. I love that even the classic drive-in food (for those days when you just want something uncomplicated, good, and comforting) in CA is dependable. And that you can order wine with that burger, if you please. The espresso bean shake was very creamy and not too sweet. Yum.

We headed over to Sequoia Grove to meet with Ric of Karl Lawrence, which was really my parents' first introduction to the whole wine culture. Let's put it this way: the last time my dad had wine at Friday night dinner (less than half a glass, I should inform you), he was to be found patting his hair continuously and commenting on how light headed he felt, and shortly after, falling asleep. Aside from his nonexistent tolerance, he just didn't get the culture, and never really acquired a taste for it. So this was great also because it brought them closer to my world, and shed light into something they literally knew nothing about, but that was such a huge industry (foodie, low key, commercial, or otherwise). I think they started to get the food and wine pairing thing. My dad, being a huge business guy, was very interested in knowing the business behind it, and was fascinated by all the complexities and range of techniques. He asked a lot of questions ("Wait, so there's a winemaker...and an owner?", "Reserve... is that like inventory or stock?"), and we bought a Chardonnay, and 2 Cabernet's (one split for the restaurant I work for, and one for us... unfortunately they were either stolen or left somewhere, very sad moment in my life, I must say). Ric was personable and entertaining, very cool and laid back. We all loved him, and it was a great introduction to the wine tasting.

We then headed off the Robert Sinskey, which was closing very soon. They have little snacks for you to taste with each pairing, which was great and once again, added that element of food and wine pairing for my parents. We talked the woman into giving us an abridged 5 minute mini tour of the cellar, which was brief, but interesting nonetheless. The wines were really great, not very overpowering or oaky; light and refreshing but still had body. We decided on a Merlot, and the Los Carneros Pinot Noir. We drove to Calistoga to our next B&B, the Pink Mansion, which I highly recommend, if anyone is going up there. Beautiful setting, huge room (I can now boast about staying in the very same honeymoon suite as Teri Hatcher... though it's a little strange to say that I shared a honeymoon suite with my parents, but hey, it was the only room to accommodate 3). Great amenities, very nice owner, and pretty great breakfast.

Terra. Just wow. Seriously, with each meal I just thought, "can it really get better than this?". Perfect atmosphere, helpful and attentive staff, very very nice. Explained everything and was patient with us, and recommended a few wines for us to taste and then order, which were right on. My parents got it, even my dad. Again, we ordered 3 appetizers and 2 entrees for us. We started out with a Cauliflower Vichyssoise with Lobster Gelee and American Sturgeon Caviar. I don't even know if I should try to describe these meals, I would have to think hard about word choice to adequately capture it all. Plus, this is getting ridiculously long--much longer than I anticipated--so I'll just stick to writing out the descriptions, the facts. Ok, well I will say that the ingredients complimented each other so well that I was in awe once I took that first bite. Presentation was beautiful, in a martini glass and almost parfait-like. Next, was the Sashimi salad with Forni Brown's Organic Greens, Hijiki and Yuzu Vinaigrette (I took a menu as a souvenir, can you tell?). Again, I would sound like a broken record if I explained any further. Lastly for the appetizers was the special that night--cuttlefish and calamari over greens with bits of fresh corn, cauliflower, thin slices of cucumber in a mustard-lemon vinaigrette. Just a brief comment about the vinaigrettes: all were subtle and complimented, not hid/covered, the flavors of the ingredients. Not drenched, still there, always fabulous. For our entrees, we wanted something different, so we ordered the Braised Veal Cheeks and Sweetbreads (for comparison) on Potato Cheese Fondue with Asparagus, and the Grilled Squab with Spinach Ricotta Gnudi and Spring Onions in Foie Gras Sauce. If simply reading that sounds appealing, imagine how we felt while tasting it. Yeah. Melted in mouth. My dad couldn't even tell what were veal cheeks and what were sweetbreads. All he knew was that they were tender and flawless. We finished it off with cappuccino and Cheese Cake Brick with Strawberries in Cabernet Sauvignon Black Pepper Sauce, which was a great take on cheese cake because it was crisp on the outside and so added a great element of texture to accompany the hot, flavorful, cheesy treat (sweet, but not too sweet). We went to sleep very full, my friends. Full, but content. Which I think is my general goal for the conditions before I die-- full, content, and asleep.

DAY 3 (wow, only on day 3?):

After the Pink Mansion breakfast, we headed over to Berkeley. We first stopped at June Taylor, which, while the products were impressive, was an overall dissapointment. Not so much the products themselves, but I was left with an unfavorable impression of June Taylor herself. I was excited to speak to her about farmers markets, getting started, and the industry. She was nice enough at first, but then turned snooty and seemed to just be bothered by the people. It was as though she wanted to have a business and do her thing, but had no passion about talking to people about it. She was late in greeting us to begin with, sampled only one product (not that I care too much about the sampling part, it was just the principle), and was generally annoyed at any customer interaction. Overall bad vibe, but we purchased about 5 items from her regardless. Afterall, there's no denying a good product when you see it.

We headed over to the Cheeseboard. Umm... that alone is reason for me to move to CA. The staff was SO helpful. So often, the staff at cheeseshops are intimidating (i.e. Murray's in NY), or you feel obligated to stop trying after a certain point even when there are so many varieties. Here, they really wanted to help you find what you were looking for, and explained everything in detail. It wasn't about the business. It was the cheese. Purely the love for the cheese. I didn't feel bad taking up their time, and I was certainly happy to sample the best cheese I have had to date. The store itself is adorable, and really, I cannot rave enough about it. We walked away happy with 3 different cheeses, and 2 baked good items. Next door, we walked into their pizza place right as they were closing, but again, they were so proud of their pizza that they gave us samples to split, even though we told them we were just looking and had reservations at Chez Panisse. I don't even particularly like pizza, but damn.

Chez Panisse deserves it's own paragraph. The atmosphere had every component that a restaurant like CP should have. Ditto about the staff. Again, perfect wine choices recommended. As with Terra, no words are adequate, so I'll do very little describing. I will only say that I was thoroughly impressed, and it lived up to every expectation. Not surprising that it started the Cal revolution of the ingredients being the star. Simple and not cluttered, but letting a few perfect ingredients shine and compliment each other. We started with some appetizers--grilled anchoiage toast with cherry tomatoes and savory, and then romano beans, beets, and albacore tuna with basil oil. For entrees, we ordered the Wood Farm chicken al mattone (meaning it is cooked under a heavy brick) with grilled tomato, zucchini, and sweet corn polenta, as well as the wood oven-roasted squid with rocket and fennel salad and aioli. By this point, my parents REALLY got it. I mean, seriously. My dad was so enthralled by the food that he looked as though in pain with each bite; eyes closed, eyebrows furrowed, pausing a few seconds after each taste. I enjoyed watching that. My mom told me she had never seen him elicit such a response. He sopped it all up with their great Acme bread. Finally, cappuccinos and the Bittersweet chocolate pave with espresso-hazelnut cream, as well as the Cannard Farm Royal Anne and sour cherry tart with Cognac cream. I'm not a dessert person, so out of everything these items shined the least, but that does not by any means diminish how delicious they were. Great end to a flawless meal. Felt honored to be eating here.

We drove to the Berkeley Bowl (jealous, oh so jealous!), and then down to Bakesale Betty's. Can I just say how much I love Matt and Alison, and the whole staff? They were friendly and chatty, and gave us free samples of just about everything other than the pies, and we didn't even ask! Those scones, jesus. I was happy. He gave me his number and said that if I ever wanted a job when/if I move to CA, to call him.

We checked into Hotel Vitale, which we were pleased with--great location. We drove through Japantown but didn't get out of the car, and made our way into Aziza. It was a great change of scene... lovely atmosphere, but a little more hip, while still being intimate and low-key, which is more my parents' style. We split a few appetizers and an entree, once again. We decided on the harvest arugula salad with flying disk ranch derrie dates, humboldt fog cheese, almonds, and extra vecchio balsamic. One of the best salads I've had, despite how little ingredients there were. Nothing overpowered, using balsamic to accentuate rather than cover the ingredients...not the mention the cheese was spectacular. We also had the appetizer of fresh bodega goat cheese (seriously, does CA even carry cheese that is anything less than stellar?), joyce's cherry tomato and citrus jam, pistachios, and sumac toast with za'taar. My parents definitely appreciated the twist on traditional Med/Moroccan food; slightly different but right up their alley. Familiar and yet still a discovery for them, this was really a perfect recommendation by my fellow foodies. We also ordered the kefta and grape skewers with cucumber, pickled onion salad and creamy herb vinaigrette. This was marvelous. Sweet, savory, spicy...all the elements of great Moroccan food. All beautifully presented...not to mention that this was easy to share. They brought out the Mediterranean spreads (smoky eggplant, pomegranate-almond, yogurt-cucumber-dill) with flatbread with the entree we ordered (these spreads were oh so delicious), seared hokkaido sea scallops with warn brentwood corn salad, beet reduction vinaigrette, and marash pepper. Again, my dad was in pain while he ate. Very different than the type of food we had eaten before, but equally incredible. We were full and content, once again. But we had to have our dessert and cappuccino, so we did (strawberry-rose parfait, with almond shortcake and yogurt-creme chantilly). I think this was my favorite dessert of all the restaurants. Not being a dessert person (I think my palate is quite different in my perception of sweetness...), this was light and refreshing, great texture, and the almond shortbread was marvelous. Almonds are my weakness, I must admit. Oh, and I forgot to mention their drink list. I usually go for the wine, but their drink list was very compelling. Their motto was to highlight a seasonal ingredient with each, I loved that concept. This one was kumquat--with mint, Sicilian tangerine cognac, and mandarin vodka. Perfect cocktail, and eating the kumquats was certainly a nice little bonus.

DAY 4:

Despite the comfortable bed, I got very little sleep. It was hard to get myself to the Farmer's Market early in the morning. But once I did... Oh. My. God. Oh. My. God. Did I mention that I was jealous? Because I am jealous. Never in my life... have I seen such a site. Aside from the sheer enormity, incredible produce/coffee/fruit/everything/oh my god, I was fully immersed in everything I enjoy about the food industry. Everyone caring about food as much as I do, about the culture behind food, and not just eating something that tastes good. The community. And then it clicked with my parents officially. Frog's Hollow, Blue Bottle, Primavera, Andante (she was swarmed), Acme, Cowgirl, of course I took these recs, but also went to everything else. Best oyster I've ever tasted at Hog Oyster Company. Never in my life...the produce, the freshness... I feel as though I hadn't really tasted what ingredients were supposed to taste like until that very moment. The ferry building inside was very nice as well. All very crowded, probably touristy, but I didn't care. Everyone-young, old, gay, straight, whatever--was in some way on the same page. We were so incredibly full, but could not stop sampling and buying little things here and there. Really, really great. And when I thought it was over, I realized there was half of the market I hadn't seen. And so I went back to see those vendors, too.

After walking through the local art fair close to the FP, we walked around more of SF in spite of our fatigue--the farmer's market was invigorating. North Beach, and Chinatown were great. My parents loved North Beach, especially. Unfortunately, we were too full to eat at Stella's or Victoria's, etc, but we went inside and admired (we did, before that, have a crazy pastry at one of the Chinatown shops). Looked around cute shops, admired the parks and the weather and the atmosphere of North Beach. Went into City Lights for a while (my mom and I have dreams of opening up a book shop together). Went back to the hotel and rested for an hour or so while my parents lounged in the Vitale lobby. We made our way to Kaygetsu in Menlo Park, and took a spontaneous scenic detour since we had time. Views right out of a movie.

Kaygetsu. Oh, Kaygetsu, Kaygetsu, Kaygetsu. How do I love thee? Let me count the ways... At this point, I don't understand how these restaurants exist. This is everything I have ever wanted in a restaurant, and everything I LOVE surrounding the culture of food. It's not just the food and the taste, it's about engaging the senses, about the philosophy, history... kaiseki is by far, one of the most memorable and enjoyable experiences to date. And this particular kaeseki restaurant (not that I have anything to compare it to), was... there is no adjective, really. Let's just take a gander at the menu, shall we? To begin, they presented us with a magnificent plate. On our left, was a glass with eggplant with tofu skin, in thickened fish sauce (we were informed to mix it up before eating). Next to it was a edamame jelly, a small round ball that I felt sad destroying, and a yamamomo berry (never had it before, but it was delightful). Next to that was flounder, marinated in kelp, pickled turnip, and caviar... finally, the next to that, the dish contained a spinach and shiitake mushroom mixed with edamame sauce. No words. Really subtle, really beautiful, all of the elements in tact. I did the sake pairing as well, as the sake itself was subtle to go with the starter. Next was the slow cooked dish. It consisted of winter melon, asparagus, and duck, in a kudzu-thickened minced shrimp sauce. I'm not a huge duck fan, but the duck was tender and flavorful, not overcooked and not undercooked. Just as it should be. The shrimp sauce was loaded with umame. The asparagus was just the right texture, and the winter melon (having never tried it) was soft on the inside, and a little crunchier on the outside. Each dish progressed on the previous. Next, the sashimi. I don't want to seem melodramatic here, but I really don't know how else to describe the experience. Sole with speckled flakes of gold, red flounder, wild salmon... garnished with 2 thin slices of lemon, wasabi, single square of red beed, curled carrot, edible flower, and radish. Ok, so the fish was ridiculous, there is no doubt about that. Even the salmon tasted so fresh, I couldn't contain my emotion. At this point, not only was my father in pain, but I was in pain as well. But what surprised me was the radish. Yes, the radish. Usually, you get these pretty nice and elegent long stringed heaps of radish upon which to lay the sashimi. The radish is generally pretty bland, and not very...radish-like? Well, this was a different kind of radish, my friends. Even the radish epitomized the quality of the freshness, thoughtfulness, and eloquence of this meal. That was surprising, and refreshing, and delightful. Next, the deep fried dish. This consisted of sukuzi (Japanese sea bass), deep fried, in fish broth, with koimo potato (a sweet potato of sorts), served with corn sauce. I couldn't even taste any deep fried aspect of this dish. So delicate, and yet it was fried. The potatoes were inexplicably good. The seabass was perfectly cooked, tender and falvorful. The broth was absolutely stellar. Loaded with umame. My parents picked up the bowl and drank the broth in full. I did a little, too. Next, the grilled dish. This was ayu (Sweetfish), air dried and grilled with hollowed burdock and deep fried lotus room. In a separate bowl was plum wine gelatin, and then another dish of shredded potato salad. I think this might have been my favorite, but really, I don't know if it's possible to pick a favorite. The fish was small and you could eat the bones, fish, tail, all of it. It almost tasted deep fried, but it was the quality of air drying it and then grilling it that gave it the crispy texture on the outside, rather than needing to deep fry it. Warm, flavorful, and tender on the inside, but crisp on the outside, I have never tasted anything quite like this. The hollowed burdock was delightful, and even the potato salad worked well. At this point, we were all just excited to experience the next dish. We were actually quite full, but our curiousities were piqued. I could have eaten 1,000 pounds of food before hand, and I still would have yearned for the next dish. Speaking of, aren't you curious about the next dish? Ok, I'll share it. The rice dish. Kobe style beef, cooked with egg, served over rice, with dark red miso soup and in house picked vegetables. Simple and standard enough, right? Nope. No don buri comes close. The seasoning was slightly yuzu flavored, and the citrus in the rice dish with the saltiness of the red miso soup, combined with the vinegar of the crisp vegetables offset each other harmoniously, like a poem. The kobe beef, which I had always wanted to try despite the fact that I rarely eat beef, was tender and thin and juicy and everything I hoped it would be. After all, these cattle graze upon acres of land and receive massages multiple times a day, I'm damn well glad they were as happy living as I was to be eating them now. I'm being dramatic, but this meal was dramatic, and is deserving of such a description. Lastly, the house-made original dessert. Mousse of sake lees and peach. Not a dessert person, again, but this was good. Probably my least favorite, but really, that's not saying much. The chunks of peach were delightful, and the taste of sake lees (the rice used to make sake) were a treat. Each of the 4 sake's, by the way, were perfect compliments. I slept really, really well that night. Really well.

DAY 5:

Since we didn't have time to do the scenic thing after FP on Friday, we did it after eating some of Bakesale Betty's leftover pastries and Pete's Coffee (my dad brought it from across in the FP...yay for personal room service!). We headed over the GGB, took the exit right before for beautiful views. Touristy, but rightfully so. We headed over the Marin headlands, where we saw numerous groups getting ready to hike around. Loved that there was a hostel there, future ideas implanted about taking a crazy camping roadtrip... Drove down to the beach, very picturesque, out of a movie almost. Serene, with dogs and surfers and young families... we even saw 2 horses being led across the beach. The weather, by the way, could not be more peaceful. Headed down to Sausilito to check out the houses and scenery, and then down to Lakespur. Very cute town. Saw the redwoods at the Inn, and continued onto Emporio Rulli for some baked goods and cappuccino. Overall, we were blown away by California's beauty. Spectacular. Just drove briefly through Mission since we didn't have too much time, which was unfortunate, because it was adorable. We shared a small kiddie cup of half Strawberry Balsamic, half Chai Spiced Milk Chocolate. Incredible. The market across the street made me pretty envious of the SF folks, once again. We headed over to Tartine, which saddened me that we couldn't stay because I wanted to show my parents dim sum. Tartine is a place I will visit continuously, I can tell. Sadly, we had to leave to make Dim Sum. We thought we wouldn't have time for Koi, so we went to Yang Sing. I'm sorry to say, but this was an incredible disappointment. 90 dollars later and one generic meal later, I left very dissatisfied. A few of the dishes were quite good (the spinach dumpling, winter melon salad, lotus bun...), but most were touristy versions of dim sum in a huge building, though I did enjoy the building itself. Quite frankly, I've grabbed better dim-sum at a 3 table hole-in-the-wall on a whim when I went last (we had one shark fin dumpling, and one of those transcluscent skinned dumplings the last time). It was annoying that I had to leave on that bad note and wasted the Tartine experience, but in the grand scheme of things, that really was the only blip. Plus, I'll be back.

As a final statement, I guess I have you all to thank! Good ol' reliable Chowhound gang. I do not know what the future holds, but there is no doubt that I will be back as many times as I can afford. I hope some of you stuck around to read the report in its entirety, but I don't blame anyone for skimming ;) Over and out.

Talia

P.S.- I tooked pictures, too. Not all of them came out as I would have liked, others are great. I'm not sure how to upload them, but if people would enjoy pictures to go along with this really, really, long report, I can post them.

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