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Jun 28, 2007 03:08 PM

Boule Goes to Work

I had some errands near the Beverly Center this mornings, so I decided to go to Boule for a coworker. He loves cannelés and always buys them at La Brea Bakery when he gets his car services at the Jeep dealership across the street there. Well, if he loves cannelés, how could he not know about Boule? I got him a half-dozen of their cannelés bordelais - three of the vanilla, and three of the chocolate - as well as a late-morning breakfast for myself of a sour cherry almond cake and a brown sugar spice cake. And how could I not get a dozen macaroons to pass around? I bought two each of the match green tea, raspberry-rose, dulce de leche, passionfruit-milk chocolate, and my two favorite flavors, Venezuelan chocolate and lavender.

It was nice to be back at Boule, actually. The staff seems friendlier and happier to be there. The attitude is lighter. The last time I was there, the staff were haugtier than the salespeople at Cartier. (I'm not exaggerating; after all, the Rodeo Drive folks are used to dealing with gawking tourists.) The lady I got behind the counter was friendly and eager to help, smiling and happy to answer my questions about the upcoming Boule Atelier. (She didn't seem to know much, though. In fact, she mentioned to the manager I knew a lot about the store. The manager crossed her fingers when I asked if the kouign amann would be returning, and I also made my case for the licorice macaroons.) A dozen macaroons, six cannelés, a sour cherry almond cake, and a brown sugar spice cake came to forty dollars even. Ouch. But with the nice smiling help and the warm reception, I'm looking forward to making my next visit a lot sooner than the one-year-plus period between my last visit and this one.

The sour cherry almond cake was good, if not phenomenal. It struck me as a fancy muffin, although I can't think of a better muffin in town. Another coworker had a chunk of it - she was angry at me for taking all the crumbly top portion - and swooned over the buttery quality of it. The brown sugar spice cake was somehow both moist and dry - odd. It was passable, but, while not at all unpleasant, I don't think I would recommend it. The macaroons were wonderful, though, just as good as on my first visit during Boule's first week of operation. Only one of my coworkers was even familiar with Boule, and she was delighted to see them. ("You're fancy, like me!" - she's a natural-born Chowhounder.) With one coworker, it led to swapping stories of favorite bakeries. (She's a big Porto's fan and crosses town to get pastries for parties.) I had a handful of their advertising flyers and passed them out to those who asked, and everyone pronounced the name in Spanish: "BOO-lay."

As for the reason I went, the coworker who loves cannelés, he thought Boule's cannelés were better than La Brea Bakery's. He found them to be lighter, and he was surprised to see the chocolate ones, saying he's never even seen cannelés in other flavors before. Boule really lifted the workday today, and that's what great food - especially great pâtisseries - can do. It's nice to see a bit of a return to form for Boule, and I can't wait for the expanded Boule Atelier to open. (I looked inside the space through an open door this morning - just bare timber so far. It's going to be awhile.) If those macaroons and cannelés can brighten the day, I can only imagine what those wondrous, long-gone, hopefully-to-return kouign amanns could do...

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  1. As another big fan of canneles, I would agree that Boule's are better than La Brea Bakery's. They have more of the crisp caramelization on the exterior that makes a good cannele really good.

    5 Replies
    1. re: Amuse Bouches

      If anyone knows of good cannelés beyond La Brea Bakery and Boule, please let me know. Give the name, I would think Canelé in Atwater Village would have good ones, too, but I never read mention of them there. In fact, that place doesn't even seem to have a bakery.

        1. re: slacker

          The cannele I had at Surfas was foul-- flavored with fake banana extract. Bleck.

        2. re: Woolsey

          Canelé gives out a little morsel as patrons leave from their meal. We went last night ... I didn't actually try one of them, though.

          1. re: typetive

            The ones from Canelé, regretfully, aren't nearly as good as the ones from Boule. But, still, it's a nice touch, to receive one upon leaving the restaurant.

      1. I know, I love the kouign amans! I'm a little surprised they had any baked goods at all, though... thought they stopped carrying "viennoiseries"? I understood that to mean all pastries, except I guess the macarons. Haven't been there in a while either.

        2 Replies
        1. re: Cicely

          The viennoiseries are the croissants, kouign amanns, pain au chocolat, etc., as opposed to all the non-dessert, more pastry-like baked goods that aren't the sweet stuff they continue to carry, like the cakes, éclairs, cannelés, macaroons, etc. They aren't as showy, and I guess the ownership figured they were expendable. Perhaps they took too much manpower to make, too. But really, the kouign amann were the real jewels in Boule's crown.

          1. re: Woolsey

            I miss them too. The kouign amann was the superior Boule pastry.

        2. The original comment has been removed
          1. i think what you are mentioning are macarons instead of the coconut cookie macaroon. they are really great!