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Maritimes After Labor Day

t
trail 6 Jun 22, 2007 02:16 PM

Hi:

We're going to do a drive tour of two-three weeks in mid/late September. First time. What's different from summer? Less crowded; any places closed? Different rates? Different menus?
We are interested in mid-cost, low-butter , not deep-fried cuisine. Thoughts?

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  1. b
    BarnNB Jun 23, 2007 06:00 PM

    I suspect that most places would still be open in mid-September. Your 2 -3 week timeframe will allow a good tour of the area. I also suspect rates will be good that time of year. With the Canadian dollar as high as it is, tourism from the eastern coast of the United States takes a bit of a hit, so demand will be less than previous years. Where are you visiting from?

    I would highly recommend a drive along the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton. Be sure to stay a night or two in Ingonish and perhaps a night in Margaree. In Ingonish, splurg and stay/eat at the Keltic Lodge, whch has one of the best golf courses in Canada:

    http://www.signatureresorts.com/resorts.asp?resort=1

    The Cabot Trail is an absolute must for anyone doing a 2-3 week tour of the 'Times. Hell, it is a must for anyone doing a 1 week tour. This is unbiased opinion, because I am a New Brunswicker.

    The other place I would recommend is St. Andrews, New Brunswick. You must absolutely eat at the Rossmount Inn, in Chamcook on the way int to St. Andrews.

    http://www.rossmountinn.com/

    This is the best restaurant in New Brunswick, where you can eat 3-star food at les-than-1-star prices. Many of the ingrediants are locally sourced by the owner. They have a package deal consisting of 1 night, 3-course dinner and breakfast for about $80 per person based on double occupancy. My wife and I did it last year and negotiated a 5 course tasting menu from an extra $15 each. Most of the food we ate that evening was produced within a few hundred km of the restaurant, much of it from within a few miles. Smoked, locally raised sturgeon, local lamb with local shitake demiglace, raw milk cheese from northern NB. Tbhe meal was way more memorable than other, much more expensive meals.

    Hope you have a fun trip! If you develop and describe your intinerary then perhaps myself and other can recommend other good places to eat.

    1. Pat Hammond Jun 23, 2007 06:29 PM

      You won't want to miss Jim Leff's Chow Tour of the Maritimes. Dispatch #53 starts in New Brunswick. Nova Scotia and Newfoundland are covered in subsequent reports.

      Here you go: http://www.chow.com/tour/1822

      1. m
        maineart Jun 26, 2007 05:13 AM

        Most places are still open and as there are fewer people most places have switched to off-season rates. Try The Water's Edge Inn, Cafe & Gallery in Badddeck, NS Great rooms, good foodincluding heart healthy & veg items. They do not have a fryer in the kitchen at all. The art gallery is full of original work by lots of Maritime artists. As the name suggests, they are on the water.

        2 Replies
        1. re: maineart
          l
          LJS Jun 26, 2007 09:04 AM

          The South Shore of Nova Scotia (aka The Lighthouse Route) includes some excellent dining as well as spectacular scenery. In Lunenburg ( a UNESCO World Heritage Site) there is Fleur de Sel and Trattoria della Nonna. In Mahone Bay, try The Biscuit Eater (owners Dawn and Alden are members of the Slow Food Movement and do a superb job of integrating local food into a wonderful luncheon menu).Further up is Mimi's (in Chester? Chester Basin?)...not my personal fave, I find it a bit self-consciously "trying too hard"...and VERY pricey for what you get, but my daughter and company love it so maybe its a generational thing. Skip Peggy's Cove as far as food is concerned, but do catch the view and the Memorial to the Swiss Air flight. And then you are back in Halifax...now where to start? there is FID and Bish and deMaurizio's and, for true kitcsch, The Esquire in Bedford...Pete'sFruitique for a picnic. And so on and so on...

          1. re: LJS
            s
            swbasil Sep 4, 2007 04:04 PM

            I think perhaps you're refering to Nicki's in Chester-Mimi's used to be in Mahone Bay a number of years ago1

        2. t
          trail 6 Jun 26, 2007 12:04 PM

          We're coming out of Rhode Island, just south of Boston. You are giving us some great stuff. Are there some "don't miss" wineries? Good Inns?
          We're considering a one-way trip via ferry to Yarmouth, up N.S., Cape Breton, P.E.I., St John's River Valley west to Maine.

          3 Replies
          1. re: trail 6
            troutpoint Jun 28, 2007 03:31 AM

            In St. Andrews, N.B. you should try the Rossmount Inn. It is by far the best restuarant in New Brunswick. Amazing food, a great view, and they tend to favor locally grown (a lot of it they grow themselves) food.
            Not to be missed!

            1. re: trail 6
              Greg B Jun 30, 2007 10:21 AM

              In Wolfville, NS, you should visit Grand Pre winery. You might want to visit their excellent restaurant while there. Less fancy, but with perhaps better wines, is Gaspereau Winery, just outside of town in the Gaspereau Valley. Lots of lovely inns in Wolfville too.

              Also in Grand Pre right at the highway intersection is a little cafe (forget the name, someone help me out) with some of the best pies ever.

              1. re: Greg B
                s
                swbasil Sep 4, 2007 04:07 PM

                Sterling's

            2. t
              trail 6 Jul 18, 2007 12:36 PM

              Thanks for all the help, especially on the wineries. We will report back.

              1. l
                lyndakiwi Sep 4, 2007 03:54 PM

                You really should come to Chester, Nova Scotia. The healthiest place to eat is the Kiwi cafe, nothing deepfried anywhere here, save your splurges for the delicious homebaked squares and cookies, great paninis and divine soups.
                www.kiwicafechester.com

                -----
                The Kiwi Cafe
                Chester, NS, Canada

                1. Smartlikestreetcar Sep 7, 2007 04:38 PM

                  One place people people don't tend to mention is the Black Forest Cafe in Martin's Point, just a hop, skip and a jump from Lunenburg (on the Lighthouse Route from Mahone Bay).

                  We've only been once, but enjoyed a fine leek chowder and vegetable-barley beer soup (both blossomed once we added salt), followed with a decent spaetzle (mixed with onions), and an enjoyable maultaschen (sp?), which might best be described as german ravioli (with a plain, but freshhouse salad). Other menu choices include sausages, liverwurst, pork schnitzel, pan-fried haddock, and chicken (glazed with grape sauce, if memory serves). It's quite extensive.

                  The Black Forest Cake was rich and tasty, and the streusel (apples and raisins) was also very good. Their wine list is small, but they have several cold beers at the ready. Service wasn't accomplished, but it was accommodating, and friendly.

                  We'd certainly recommend it.

                  We also had a very good meal recently at The Gazebo in Mahone Bay. Mid-range ($12 - $18 entrees), mostly seafood, creative preparations, and conscientious cooking.

                  1. t
                    trail 6 Sep 8, 2007 09:07 AM

                    Thanks, everyone. We're heading out next Friday. How about scenic golf courses, not terribly difficult. One has suggested Chester...

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: trail 6
                      Greg B Sep 9, 2007 03:32 AM

                      Chester is a great little golf course with some beautiful holes and is highly recommended. Since you're going to be all over Nova Scotia here are some other good golf options:

                      Northumberland Links, up at the top of the province near Pugwash -- some holes by the ocean and fast greens;
                      Digby Pines in Digby, a fine Stanley Thompson course;
                      Bell Bay in Baddeck;
                      And of course the jewel in the crown, Highland Links in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Many believe it is the best course in Canada.

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