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Maritimes After Labor Day

Hi:

We're going to do a drive tour of two-three weeks in mid/late September. First time. What's different from summer? Less crowded; any places closed? Different rates? Different menus?
We are interested in mid-cost, low-butter , not deep-fried cuisine. Thoughts?

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  1. I suspect that most places would still be open in mid-September. Your 2 -3 week timeframe will allow a good tour of the area. I also suspect rates will be good that time of year. With the Canadian dollar as high as it is, tourism from the eastern coast of the United States takes a bit of a hit, so demand will be less than previous years. Where are you visiting from?

    I would highly recommend a drive along the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton. Be sure to stay a night or two in Ingonish and perhaps a night in Margaree. In Ingonish, splurg and stay/eat at the Keltic Lodge, whch has one of the best golf courses in Canada:

    http://www.signatureresorts.com/resor...

    The Cabot Trail is an absolute must for anyone doing a 2-3 week tour of the 'Times. Hell, it is a must for anyone doing a 1 week tour. This is unbiased opinion, because I am a New Brunswicker.

    The other place I would recommend is St. Andrews, New Brunswick. You must absolutely eat at the Rossmount Inn, in Chamcook on the way int to St. Andrews.

    http://www.rossmountinn.com/

    This is the best restaurant in New Brunswick, where you can eat 3-star food at les-than-1-star prices. Many of the ingrediants are locally sourced by the owner. They have a package deal consisting of 1 night, 3-course dinner and breakfast for about $80 per person based on double occupancy. My wife and I did it last year and negotiated a 5 course tasting menu from an extra $15 each. Most of the food we ate that evening was produced within a few hundred km of the restaurant, much of it from within a few miles. Smoked, locally raised sturgeon, local lamb with local shitake demiglace, raw milk cheese from northern NB. Tbhe meal was way more memorable than other, much more expensive meals.

    Hope you have a fun trip! If you develop and describe your intinerary then perhaps myself and other can recommend other good places to eat.

    1. You won't want to miss Jim Leff's Chow Tour of the Maritimes. Dispatch #53 starts in New Brunswick. Nova Scotia and Newfoundland are covered in subsequent reports.

      Here you go: http://www.chow.com/tour/1822

      1. Most places are still open and as there are fewer people most places have switched to off-season rates. Try The Water's Edge Inn, Cafe & Gallery in Badddeck, NS Great rooms, good foodincluding heart healthy & veg items. They do not have a fryer in the kitchen at all. The art gallery is full of original work by lots of Maritime artists. As the name suggests, they are on the water.

        2 Replies
        1. re: maineart

          The South Shore of Nova Scotia (aka The Lighthouse Route) includes some excellent dining as well as spectacular scenery. In Lunenburg ( a UNESCO World Heritage Site) there is Fleur de Sel and Trattoria della Nonna. In Mahone Bay, try The Biscuit Eater (owners Dawn and Alden are members of the Slow Food Movement and do a superb job of integrating local food into a wonderful luncheon menu).Further up is Mimi's (in Chester? Chester Basin?)...not my personal fave, I find it a bit self-consciously "trying too hard"...and VERY pricey for what you get, but my daughter and company love it so maybe its a generational thing. Skip Peggy's Cove as far as food is concerned, but do catch the view and the Memorial to the Swiss Air flight. And then you are back in Halifax...now where to start? there is FID and Bish and deMaurizio's and, for true kitcsch, The Esquire in Bedford...Pete'sFruitique for a picnic. And so on and so on...

          1. re: LJS

            I think perhaps you're refering to Nicki's in Chester-Mimi's used to be in Mahone Bay a number of years ago1

        2. We're coming out of Rhode Island, just south of Boston. You are giving us some great stuff. Are there some "don't miss" wineries? Good Inns?
          We're considering a one-way trip via ferry to Yarmouth, up N.S., Cape Breton, P.E.I., St John's River Valley west to Maine.

          3 Replies
          1. re: trail 6

            In St. Andrews, N.B. you should try the Rossmount Inn. It is by far the best restuarant in New Brunswick. Amazing food, a great view, and they tend to favor locally grown (a lot of it they grow themselves) food.
            Not to be missed!

            1. re: trail 6

              In Wolfville, NS, you should visit Grand Pre winery. You might want to visit their excellent restaurant while there. Less fancy, but with perhaps better wines, is Gaspereau Winery, just outside of town in the Gaspereau Valley. Lots of lovely inns in Wolfville too.

              Also in Grand Pre right at the highway intersection is a little cafe (forget the name, someone help me out) with some of the best pies ever.

            2. Thanks for all the help, especially on the wineries. We will report back.