Gotham Bar and Grill Lunch Review
It's easy to see why the GB&G has been open for over twenty years; it just does everything right. Just notice the brass name plaque flawlessly shined even before you get inside. And once inside it wears its age so well. High ceilings and low decibels make for a sense of warmth and sophistication. The service is so seamless its as if it exists and doesn't exist at the same time. Chef Alfred Portale literally invented vertical food architecture and the visuals of his dishes still delight after all these years. An arrugala salad was delicious when topped off with perfect bon-bons of goat cheese. The tuna tartare really showed off Portale's penchant in combining presentation and taste.
A second course of Fettucini with morels was perfectly cooked al dente, but could have melded better with its buttery sauce. The main of Filet Mignon was so tender it could make its brethren in the Strip House directly across the street blush. Accompanied with perfectly cooked and salted roasted potatoes, baby carrots and a somewhat weak spinach custard.
We opted for the rhubarb tart which was more of a disassembled tart than a traditional tart. Consisted of a small nutty round cake with a delicious yogurt ice cream. Rhubarb compote was on the side.
Granted there were a few misses but overall everything was delightful. Portale really pays attention to the most minute details and it shows.
Long after the ever evolving white hot trendy places have both opened and closed, the GB&G will still be there, setting an example of a place that just gets it right almost everytime.