Chow find in Epidavros
If you happen to find yourself in Ancient Epidavros (as opposed to New Epidavros), and if you have a vehicle, I highly recommend a visit to a small restaurant located about 2 km south of the port, on the road to the Yialasi beach. There's no real address and not much of a sign, but follow the signs toward "Camping Bekas" and keep your eyes open on the right side of the road after you pass the disco. The restaurant, To Kalogerikou, is in a stone house that looks like a residence--a menu board is out front, and the tables are outside on a back patio. If you reach Camping Bekas, you missed it--turn around and go about 0.5 km back.
The place is a small family affair, and appears to be pretty unpublicized, but the food was absolutely delicious. The menu is well above and beyond the standard souvlaki/fried calamari/moussaka-type stuff that populates most of the more touristy places' offerings. There is an English translation of the menu, which should be read creatively (for instance, "ginger salad" turned out to be a yogurt spread containing pureed ginger, garlic, and cayenne). Nonetheless, be adventurous, and you will not be disappointed.
As starters, we had the aforementioned ginger salad--an explosion of ginger, a Greek salad (the usual tomatoes/cucumbers/feta/oregano, but man, are those tomatoes to die for), and spicy cheese salad, which was also a dip. For entrees, we had a roasted lamb with herb rice that was meltingly tender, another lamb dish with avgolemono sauce and zucchini (a really interesting preparation, and tasty), and fish soup. The fish soup was vaguely creamy, with nice chunks of white fish and no shellfish, and very delicate. All in all we were thrilled with our meal, which came to EUR 56 for the three of us, including a liter of house red wine.
I have to thank travelmad478 for this posting. I found very few restaurant recs/food tips for Epidavros for our trip in the summer of 2011, so I made a note of this even though it was from 2007 and the geography was unclear to me. As the van wended its way toward our hotel (this was a work trip), I clutched my husband's arm and said "That's it! That's got to be the place from chowhound!" To our surprise we were housed about a 2-minute walk from this restaurant (at the Hotel Aristotelis in Yialassi, which is easier to find on a map).
Everything in the original post is still absolutely correct. The clientele was entirely Greek; the food was delicious; it's open late; you sit outside (it's mostly shaded) with big Greek families while kids run around and kittens chase butterflies. Literally. It's not fancy, but it's perfect. Everything was as fresh as could be; incredible tomatoes, unbelievable yogurt (how do they do it). Every wine we tried was excellent with the food. Friendly proprietors. We ate there several times; there are other places on the beach and in some of the local hotels, but this was by far our favorite for food and atmosphere.
And we might never have found it ourselves. It is very easy to miss, no signage, and it's not a very pedestrian-friendly road. Thanks to travelmad and chowhound for the great find!