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Jun 6, 2007 06:32 PM

May Trip Report

Back from a great trip to New Orleans, my first visit in four-and-a-half years. Felt so good to be there, though the longer I was in town the more noticeable recovery pains were. My planned nine-day visit turned into ten when I had a small car accident toward the end. So. In ten days I managed to hit Acme, Cafe du Monde, Cochon, Sucre, Vizards on the Avenue, Nor-Joe, K-Paul's, Galatoire's, Dick and Jenny's, Croissant d'Or, Mandina's, Brocatto's (the apricot gelato!), Domilise's , Hanson's, Upperline, Rocky and Carlo's, Adolpho's, Commander's, Plum Street Snowballs, Martinique, Fury's, Luke, Coop's, Herbsaint, Liuzza's, Drago's, Parasol's, August, and dessert at Arnaud's. I was in heaven. My first mean at K-Paul's in 22 years did not disappoint; in fact, my reaction to the crawfish etouffee was the same as back then -- it was so rich it made me dizzy. Marinique was probably the best surprise of the trip, had a number of small plates and loved them all, especially the unusual escargot -- served out their shells in a brown brandy tarragon mushroom sauce -- and the best dessert of the trip, blueberry-coconut sorbet. Lunch at Galatoire's was great as usual and the waiter actually asked if I were local (almost as good as the first time my band was compared to Buddy Holly). New Orleans is such a great soup town: On this trip alone I had the corn-shrimp bisque at K-Paul's, Liuzza's' artichoke-shrimp soup, a crawfish-boudin bisque at Luke, wonderful gumbo at Cochon -- all this besides soups from past visits that I still dream about (at Brigtsen's and Broussard's). Other high points: smoked mushroom risotto at Dick and Jenny's, Cane River Shrimp at Upperline, apricot gelato at Brocatto's (wow), shrimp and grits cakes with tasso cream sauce at Herbsaint (also their Banana Brown butter tart), and chargrilled oysters at Drago's. I ate at their new downtown spot at the Hilton, where service was really a mess (the only time I ran into this the whole trip) but god those oysters!! (Tried Acme's new chargrilled as well, which I didn't like much at all). I really wanted to eat at Parkway Bakery but it was closed for renovations the whole week (which means my favorite roast beef po boy remains Rocky and Carlo's). But the biggest disappointment of all was Saturday night, when I had plans to eat with friends at Tony Angelo's. I kept reading (and hearing) that they weren't taking reservations but that did not seem to be the case once we were there. We arrived right when they opened at 6:00 -- and were told it would be at least a three-hour wait for a table! (Had I been on my own, I may have been tempted.) Next time, I guess. So that's my all-over-the-map report. I ate like a king for ten straight days and can't wait to get back again. Thank you New Orleans so much for still being there.

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  1. Great report! Your list of places is impeccable. Sorry about the car accident, I imagine that was quite a PITA.

    I haven't been to Martinique in quite awhile, and am considering requesting it for our anniversary next week. Can you remember what else you had? Thanks.

    2 Replies
    1. re: JGrey

      I had three or four appetizers plus dessert but just now the only other one I can remember was a tartare dish that I was only luke warm on (no pun intended). The escargot was the star of the night, along with the sorbet, which was the best ice cream of the trip (which included quite a lot of ice cream). Forgot to include Creole Creamery in the above list, maybe because I didn't really like it much.

    2. Drago's oysters. I heard the ones at the Hilton are not as good as the ones in Metarie. They have to cook them differently something to do with the grills. They do not have that smoky flavor as the ones in Metarie. Have you had the ones in Metarie and if so, could you tell the difference?

      1 Reply
      1. re: dcata25

        I've had the ones in Metarie but five years ago, so I don't really trust my ability to compare. These tasted awfully good to me. And yes, my meal at K-Paul's was one of the best of the trip. It was a good dizzy. No luck requesting the coconut cake though.