407694 Sun Jun 03 12:01:46 -0700 2007 0 18 Manhattan 0 2625521 On Friday this Texan had one night in Manhattan, and decided - despite the bad reviews - to try Kobe Club. I wanted to experience the over-the-top decor, and to try Wagyu beef. I arrived at 8:30 and the place was nearly empty. Uh-oh. Warm welcomes were extended as I walked in and was shown to my table. For a starter, I decided on the parmesan fries. Because of the truffle oil there was an amazing richness to the first few bites, but as I began to realize that the potatoes themselves were from the same Ore-Ida bag I have in my freezer, my enthusiasm waned. But my before-dinner cocktail, the Red Sails, may have been the tastiest drink I've ever had. Dinner was the American Wagyu Striploin with Asparagus as a side. The meat was cooked perfectly, just as ordered (medium rare) and was absolutely delicious by itself. But everything that came with it seemed like overkill. The herb-shallot butter. The three sea salts (along with what was already on the table). The house steak sauce (which was so thick I couldn't get any out of the bottle). I guess it was fun having all that on the table, but the steak was so good that none of it was really necessary. And the asparagus was steamed perfectly with a really light and tangy hollandaise. I enjoyed a glass of Sterling Napa Valley Cabernet with dinner, though the pour was really lighthanded. Service was efficient, perhaps a little rushed, but everyone was friendly. My table was situated so that I saw the dining area and the suspended swords from exactly the same angle as the photo accompanying that melodramatic New York magazine review. I really enjoyed Kobe Club, but left with the feeling that it was out of place in New York. I can see Kobe Club getting a tremendous reception in Vegas and Miami, but with as few customers as it had at 8:30 on this Friday night, it may not be long for Manhattan. Sun Jun 03 12:01:46 -0700 2007 16852 jim1126