407402 Sat Jun 02 09:17:19 -0700 2007 28 33 Food Media and News 0 2623110 I've started this discussion here, since previous posts that have shown up on the Southwest Board have been removed. I posted that, based on past experience, I questioned Jason's positive review of Gennaros Lounge in Denver. Someone stated that Jason might be providing positive reviews for Westword advertisers. I have read enough of his reviews and seen enough negative reviews that were printed opposite of the restaurant's ad to know that he would not stoop to that level. With that being said, let me state what I don't like about his work. First, the most important tool for a reviewer is anonymity. His apparent relationships with many Denver chefs make me wonder how he can sit down to a meal at their restaurant without them knowing who he is. If you want to be a personality in the food scene, write books or get a TV show like your hero, Anthony Bourdain. Maybe it's unrealistic to expect that in a city the size of Denver compared to NY, SF, etc. but it would be nice to see him try. Secondly, I have no interest in stories about your past work history slaving away in the kitchens of the world. Again, a great subject for books or TV, not reviews. Read Frank Bruni at the NY Times to get an idea of what works. History of the restaurant, a little about the space, and then what's good and what's not. You're treading on thin ice when you wax poetic about your working past in that gastronomic mecca, Rochester, NY. This is the city who's contribution to the culinary world is the Garbage Plate at Nick Tahou's. I agree with someone's post that the Denver Post and Rocky Mountain News don't offer much competition. I'm just not ready to crown this guy. Sat Jun 02 09:17:19 -0700 2007 85486 jtc 1 2623210 Interesting. While I have agreed with some of his reviews, what made me stop taking Sheehan seriously was his excoriation of The Kitchen, in Boulder, a few years ago. Actually, I should rephrase that. It was 9 full paragraphs (if I recall) of Boulder bashing, right down to how it shouldn't exist at all, messing up the lovely valley with it's smelly hippies, yuppies and panhandlers. Then he chides the restaurant on it's green practices, which are both laudable and appreciated by many, but a source of ridicule for JS. Oh, he briefly mentioned the food (quite negatively- I recall "tomato soup tasted like it had been slorked out of a can"), went back to Boulder-bashing, and that was that. One visit, lots of negative preconceptions going in, and he proved his own conclusion. I haven't trusted his opinion since. Sat Jun 02 10:04:51 -0700 2007 2623110 50776 cheesemonger 2 2623881 Thanks for starting this thread. It appears my posts was one of the ones removed. It is to bad we can't keep the discussion under the Southwest Board as really only Colorado people are interested in this subject but I guess Chowhound gets to make the rules. I defended Sheehan's reviews earlier as one of my favorite food critics. I certainly understand that people disagree with his reviews as with any restaurant reviewer you have your own bias, background, likes and dislikes which will affect your opinion of a restaurant. Not to mention the service, food, etc., can unfortunately vary from night to night. I do not believe his reviews are affected by who buys a quarter inch ad in Westword and who does not. It is really hard to believe he would sell his professional reputation because a restaurant bought a $500 ad. But I guess wierder things happen. Its just hard to believe. I do think he goes easier on the more inexensive/ family type places which he might even admit to. As far as his writing style, maybe he does go overboard on his personal history, or the history of Thai cooking in denver, etc., but I like that style. I do read Frank Bruni and I find him very boring and predictable. But I think thats the difference between the NY Times and the Wetsword. I doubt either writer will be switching places soon. I would also point out Bruni did a whole series on how he worked as a waiter and he also now has a blog where he writes on a variety of topics. Plus there have been allegations (as I am sure happen to most critics) that he does not like certain restaurant operators and that opinion effects his reviews. As far as anonimity goes, Sheehan often writes that he does know several restaurant owners and chefs in Denver. He usually writes that in the review when he knows his dining may not be ananomous. I have a vauge recollection of the Rocky Mountain News critic having the same problem on occasion. Not to mention the Denver Post critic has previously written a book that has his picture on it. I agree I don't know how ananomous any of the reviewers are in Denver, or any city? I am sure every restaurant would like to have a picture of every "anonomous" reviewer. well, anyway I think this is an interesting discussion. I have never met Jason Sheehan or anything. I just look foward to his reviews every week and for finding places I would probably never find or think to try on my own. Sat Jun 02 15:12:59 -0700 2007 2623210 21441 ColoradoFun 2 2623883 IMHO, Jason Sheehen reflects the publication for which he rights. WESTWORD has staked its claim to being Denver's edgy, irreverent, tail-pulling, bash-happy publication, Anthony Bourdain was mentioned by jtc in the first post on this thread. Again IMHO, Sheehan is an Anthony Bourdain wannabe -- a cigarette-smoking bad boy in chef's whites with a knack for turning a phrase. I too could do with a shorter lead-in to each of his reviews, but he periodically comes up with something so good that I forgive him his other trespasses, including his unwarranted slam of The Kitchen and Boulder. Some months ago, he wrote a food/culture/anthopology piece about finding an African (Ethiopian? Somali?) "restaurant" operated by a woman in her apatment kitchen on her last night before moving to someplace like Cleveland. It was evocative and brilliant -- Sheehan at his best. Another thing that do like about his columns is that he often visits and revisits hole-in-the-wall ethnic eateries and disdains chains as much as (maybe more than) I do. Sat Jun 02 15:13:43 -0700 2007 2623210 54833 ClaireWalter 3 2624251 I certainly could have done without the "ergonomic fuck swing" reference in his review of J'Shabu. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't offended, I just thought it classless. Sat Jun 02 18:01:28 -0700 2007 2623883 50776 cheesemonger 4 2624382 Jason was interesting to start with, but now? Yawn. His self-absorbed ramblings put me to into snooze mode. As others have pointed out, we already have an Anthony Bordain. We don't need a copycat. I think Tucker Shaw (the Post) and Lori Midson (Colorado Avid Golfer) are by far the best restaurant reviewers in Denver, and they both reviews "holes-in-the-wall" and ethnic eateries. John Lehndorff, the restaurant guy at the News, is AWFUL! I may aas well be reading a grocery list. And don't even get me started on the dismal restaurant reviewer at the Camera. The worst of the worst, though, has to be the Gabby Gourmet, aka Pat miller. Horrid. Sat Jun 02 19:00:17 -0700 2007 2624251 102783 mwp 5 2624424 I really "enjoyed" Lehndorff when he would bring his kid along and let us know what food was yucky or not. Expensing your kid's meals, that's awesome! Sat Jun 02 19:22:14 -0700 2007 2624382 85486 jtc 3 2624419 Yea, it's called "Hidden Kitchen" and it's been on NPR for 3 years. I would just like a reviewer who has their own identity. Sat Jun 02 19:20:04 -0700 2007 2623883 85486 jtc 2 2638023 I like Jason's stuff. He likes some of the places I do and hates some of the places I like. Some of the places he likes I think deserves all the respect and esteem of a dead otter. I tried The Kitchen and I agree that it was no great shakes. He is a scream to read and mostly dead on. I really think he needs to add more porn in his reviews though. Thu Jun 07 07:13:57 -0700 2007 2623210 103757 zombiedust 1 2625334 Thanks for starting this thread. It definitely belongs elsewhere -- I hate hijacking other threads. I was a little weary of checking it out because it felt like I was being reprimanded on the post that spawned this discussion. Advertising controversy or not, I felt like Jason Sheehan's reviews have gone downhill lately. And I agree about the lack of anonymity factor (which almost made me NOT try out Sushi Sasa... he wrote about being acknowledged when he walked in... glad I decided to anyhow). I do commend his sense of adventure, especially when it comes to authentic ethnic dishes and hole-in-the-wall eateries. And he's certainly my favorite local critic; usually, I find his articles extremely entertaining. I've just been more wary of his reviews lately, after visiting some that were complete disasters, which is why I like reading others' opinions right here on Chowhound and other consumer-review sites. Sun Jun 03 10:41:32 -0700 2007 2623110 96453 luckylily 2 2625629 I think it would be awesome if Anthony Bordaine moved to Denver and worked as a restaurant reviewer! I won't argue that Sheehan is over the top sometimes. Maybe trying too hard? I think its in part because he writes for Westword. But I enjoy that pushing the envelope/trying new things out level of writing. Not every restaurant reviewer needs to follow the same template tha was started by whatever NY Times food critic started writing reviews back in the days of yore. I am attaching links to the Westword/Post/RMN reviews of Fruition. Which do you prefer? http://www.westword.com/2007-05-17/dining/fruition/ http://www.rockymountainnews.com/drmn/dining/article/0,2792,DRMN_24_5564177,00.html http://www.denverpost.com/search/ci_5419767 Even though I enjoy Sheehan I think Tucker Shaw's review is excellent and in many ways he and Sheehan have similiar styles. Sun Jun 03 12:48:06 -0700 2007 2625334 21441 ColoradoFun 1 2627408 I don't get to read Jason Sheehan often, but he endeared himself to me forever with a zinger form his piece on Olllie Huang's restaurants in Aspen and Cherry Valley: "Of course, if you're going to bastardize a cuisine, it's best to go someplace were no one knows the parents." The myth of the ananymous restaurant critic is just that, a myth. The restaurant industry is pretty tightly knit, and there's always going to be someone in the house that recognizes a prominent critic. The key thing is that the reservations be made anonymously to keep the element of surprise. If you guys don't want Jason, I'd be happy to see him in the SF Bay Area. Heck, I'd trade you Michael Bauer for Jason Sheehan, and throw in a Chowhound to be named later. Mon Jun 04 08:41:41 -0700 2007 2623110 10255 Gary Soup 2 2627583 Gary Soup - I'll bet you'd have no trouble finding Colo Chowhounds willing to be sacrificed to SFO! Years ago, I had a neighbor who was a sous-chef at La Caravelle, at the time one of NY's finest fancy French restaurants. In fact, he was the highest-ranking American in the kitchen of any NYC FFR at the time. I once asked him about the recognition issue. I do realize that food preparation is different now, but he said that a middling restaurant can't suddenly become wonderful because a critic has appeared -- and a fine one won't fall apart. Certainly, the service can be correct and snappy. If something is being grilled to order, the chef can make sure that something ordered rare is rare, medium is medium, etc., but the meat or fish will have already been cut by the time the critic orders it. The kitchen can make sure that the presentation is impeccable, and that there's not a spot of misplaced sauce on a plate destined for the critic's party. The kitchen can make sure the most perfect berries go on a dessert plate -- and maybe they'll throw on a extra berry or two. But the soup is the soup. The sauce is the sauce. The long-cooked meats are what they are. And the desserts were baked long before the critic sidled in. I found his reasoning interesting -- and when I think about it, I still do. Mon Jun 04 09:22:00 -0700 2007 2627408 54833 ClaireWalter 3 2627687 Thanks for your opinion on the anonimity factor. My guess is many of the places that Sheehan and the other local reviewers choose to review probably couldn't care less about what they look like (unless they get a terrible review!) Mon Jun 04 09:51:01 -0700 2007 2627583 21441 ColoradoFun 2 2640341 Would you prefer Jason over Robert Lauriston at SF Weekly? Thu Jun 07 18:03:49 -0700 2007 2627408 85486 jtc 3 2640507 Is the Pope Catholic? You are baiting me, of course. Thu Jun 07 19:11:34 -0700 2007 2640341 10255 Gary Soup 4 2640582 No, just curious. I've read him once or twice online and I enjoyed his work. He seems open and helpful on the SF board. What's the knock on him? Thu Jun 07 19:30:20 -0700 2007 2640507 85486 jtc 5 2640674 RL is a full-time Chowhound poster and only a part-time food critic, so I'll keep a civil tongue in my head...... Thu Jun 07 20:02:42 -0700 2007 2640582 10255 Gary Soup 6 2640699 Fair enough. Thu Jun 07 20:12:30 -0700 2007 2640674 85486 jtc 1 2638455 I've been reading Jason Sheehan's reviews for about a year and a half now. So far, he's never steered me wrong, and his reviews have allowed me to feel more comfortable risking my hard earned cash on new places I normally wouldn't try. Its hard to find money enough to splurge on going out without wasting it on someplace that sucks. I agree that he can be pretty tough on a restaurant he doesn't like, but he's a person, not an automaton. I'd rather have reviews that some people (including myself) disagree with than have him be afraid to ever say anything critical. And his criticism is usally very well thought out and explained; enough for me to at least see his point of view, if not agree with it. I see some of you don't like his little antecdotes about working in the restaurant industry, but to me that's part of what makes his reviews fun (along with the cursing and porn references). He's a unique person with a colorful background and individual opinions. He's *definitely* never boring. I look forward to his pieces all week long, read them religiously, and annoy my friends for days talking about what he liked and didn't like. If you don't like him, read the Rocky or the Post! Thu Jun 07 09:18:31 -0700 2007 2623110 103788 davisam1 1 2638818 Sheehan posted a response to ths thread http://blogs.westword.com/latestword/2007/06/sheehan_hey_all_you_haters.php Thu Jun 07 10:41:17 -0700 2007 2623110 103804 Oreogirl 2 2640302 It's on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just kidding. Actually, I'm a little suprised by this. While I'd expect Jason to somehow come across this thread, I'm not sure I understand his response. It's either a case of shameless self-promotion or he's thin skinned. His title is, after all, "critic" so I doubt the latter is true. I've thought about the responses posted and am seeing the light about the anonymity factor. I guess after someone has been in a critic position for some time, the restaurant folks are going to get to know who you are. Showing up under a false reservation name is the best you can do and that only allows the kitchen folks a short period of time to react if they choose to apply extra effort to your meal. Since Jason has shared with us many subpar to horrid meals, it's apparant that an effort like that on the part of the kitchen doesn't often work. If the food sucks, the food sucks. I have seen the light. ColoradoFun and Claire, I concede that point to you. I do, however, continue to abhor the "guy who has been through it all" perspective. Some folks seem to like this ( "cigarette-smoking bad boy in chef's whites with a knack for turning a phrase" ), but it just grates on me. I cringe to use this analogy, but it reminds me of Randy on American Idol having to constantly remind us of what stars he has worked with in the past. We know! Just let your body of work stand on its own. Where is this headed? Who knows, but it probably involves Jason drunk at 3:00 AM on Broadway wielding his rusty chefs knife and challenging all comers. We will see. Thu Jun 07 17:50:43 -0700 2007 2638818 85486 jtc 3 2642556 Re "Showing up under a false reservation name is the best you can do ." Those with the time, inclination, budget and acting ability can go in disguise. Ruth Reichl's most creative disguises and assumed personalities when she was restaurant critic for the NYTimes make for good reading (in her book, "Comfort Me with Apples") and are enlightening as well. One very telling anecdote involved two visits to a famous, expensive, fancy restaurant -- once disguised timid middle-aged lady lunching with a friend, and once not in disguise and dining with NYTimes bigwigs who were well known to the front-of-the-house staff. It is no surprise that she and her companion(s) were treated differently, but the level of the differences in treatment was appalling -- almost ignored as a twosome and fawned over effusively in the group. A really fine restaurant would accord all diners equal respect, whether two meek ladies treating themselves to a very special lunch or a group of corporate executives feasting on an expense-account meal. Fri Jun 08 11:49:50 -0700 2007 2640302 54833 ClaireWalter 4 2643759 Being fawned over doesn't necessarily equate to getting better food; the "fawning" is usually the province of the personnel with gratuity-based incomes. As a previous poster pointed out, if you are recognized the minute you walk in the door, it doesn't give the kitchen a lot of time to bend over backwards for you, especially if they don't know what you'll be ordering. Fri Jun 08 18:57:18 -0700 2007 2642556 10255 Gary Soup 3 2644650 I, for one, cannot stand how he goes on and on and on about how much of a "bad boy" he is. It hardly gives him credibility and who the hell cares? I want to read critics that actually review the food, not prattle on about themselves. Sheehan is a blithering idiot as far as I'm concerned. too bad because Westword has had some great critics in the past. Sat Jun 09 09:37:31 -0700 2007 2640302 102783 mwp 1 2645024 Sheehan is reliable but annoyingly juvenile. Sat Jun 09 13:12:47 -0700 2007 2623110 13930 Chimayo Joe 1 2645815 Jason turned me on to the Hurraches at Los Carboncitos and for that... anything he does or says can be forgiven. Sat Jun 09 21:29:18 -0700 2007 2623110 51246 bongomama 2 2647237 I'm skittish about posting here now after my initial posts on the "Denver cheap and tasty Italian" thread (http://www.chowhound.com/topics/406679?query=cheap%20italian%20denver) on this topic were deleted, but perhaps now that this discussion is taking place on the Food Media and News board rather than the SW forum they will be OK. What partially started this discussion is luckylily's initial post about how her husband pointed out that all of the restaurants Jason positively reviews also buy ads in Westword. My response on that thread was: I don’t always agree with Jason or any critic 100%, but I don’t think he’s “for sale” either. For example, most high-end places he has written positive reviews about like Frasca and Fruition don’t really advertise at all (in Westword or elsewhere). Further, in many of his reviews you will see a mix of positive and negative comments, such as his review of the now-defunct Emogene, where he loved the pastries and loathed the service. One would think his reviews would be more slanted one way or the other if he was under an edict from Westword to write reviews exclusively in order to pull in new advertisers, keep the existing ones happy, or “punish” habitual non-advertisers. Let’s face it: If Westword wanted a “yes man” to write fluffy reviews solely to keep the advertising bucks flowing in, they certainly wouldn’t have hired someone as out-spoken, snarky, and ballsy as Sheehan. He doesn’t pull any punches, and he doesn’t merely fall in lockstep with other critics or the masses (see his blunt 2004 review of The Kitchen for an example). My second post (with the response to my question still existing on that thread) was: Could you share with us some examples of these restaurants so we have a reference point (and can be warned of potential places to avoid)? It's fine not to agree with a critic some of the time (or even all of the time). We all have different palates and preferences and things that speak deeply to us that others just don't get. There are many kinds of restaurants in the world because there are just as many kinds of people. We've probably all read a rave review of a place at one time and experienced exactly the opposite on our visit and wondered what all the fuss was about. But it's not really fair to attack a writer's credibility by suggesting they're "on the take" as pimps for the ad department without proof just because your assessment doesn't line up perfectly with theirs. Sun Jun 10 16:09:32 -0700 2007 2645815 39038 rlm 3 2654205 Its funny as I guess my post started off the Sheehan thread when I noted he had reviewed Gennaros in response to someone looking for inexpensive Itlalian places in Denver. One of my follow up posts was also deleted. I don't really understand why this thread should not be on the Southwest Board as really only people in Colorado have an interest in the subject, but I guess that is a topic for another Board too (I just hope this post is not deleted!). I will be curious to see Sheehans further response (as he promised in his blog). Hopefully he won't be defensive as I wouldn't describe this thread (as he did) as all about "how much he sucks." He has many supporters and readers like me. I also really like and agree with RLM's well written post above. Tue Jun 12 17:25:26 -0700 2007 2647237 21441 ColoradoFun