Favorite recipes from Saveur magazine?
Another thread on Saveur on the media board reminded me that I've been wanting to do this for a while...
I'm willing to bet that a lot of other people have years of Saveur magazines but only make a handful of recipes out of them. A lot of their recipes are labor intensive and/or require esoteric ingredients, so it does take extra motivation to test them out. What are your favorites (if possible, please note the issue and page! Saveur's online archives are spotty, so it does pay to have the old issues.)
Lasagne (fresh spinach pasta, bolognese, bechamel) - Issue 53 (Sept/Oct 2001), pg 56-60
Pizza di Patate (Sullivan Street Bakery's recipe) - Issue 79 (November 2004). pg 58
On the other thread, amyzan cited a Thai catfish larb recipe, which I immediately went and dug up:
Laab Pla Duk - Issue 67 (June/July 2003) pg 57
It looks fantastic... I think I'm going to have to try it... I need a charcoal grill, though.
This thread inspired me to go back through some old issues and find some stuff to cook. This weekend, from June/July 2003 (no. 67), I made Gai Yahng (Isan-style grilled chicken), the accompanying Nam Jeam Jeaw (chile dipping sauce), Som Tum Lao (Isan-style green papaya salad), and Laab Pla Duk (minced grilled catfish salad—but I used leftover grilled and roasted chicken instead of catfish). All of it was excellent and not too difficult. The papaya salad was a little hard to eat—is there a way to get the papaya a bit more tender? I didn't "pound" it very much, as I don't have a big enough mortar and pestle—would that have helped? The laab was one of the best things I've ever made.
I consider all the issues of Saveur in a single year to be the equivalent of one cookbook. My standard for cookbooks has always been this: If there's a single recipe in it that my family uses repeatedly, then the cookbook was worth the price. So far, Saveur has produced 2 or 3 recipes per year (some years more) that my family loves. That's enough to keep me subscribing.
Acknowledging that I'm reviving an ancient thread, but...
I just made the traditional Bolognese ragu and Taglietelle recipes from the current issue of Saveur. Delicious
I've made my own pasta by hand on and off for years with the basic recipe being one egg per cup of flour. Their change is to delete the white of one of the eggs. More fat and protein makes for richer pasta.
The traditional ragu was simply luscious, of course with all the rich fats from the panacetta and cream it had to be. I expect that I'll be trying the other ragus from this issue in the near future, and will revisit the ragu and pasta recipes from the lasagna issue that is cited below.
(I should have respected the chow tip about cutting bacon when chopping the panacetta.)
Like many of you, I have been a subscriber for years but have rarely cooked out of the magazine. I explore flavors, foodways and cuisines and histories from the magazine -- I rarely follow the recipes, but the stories inspire me to cook and to explore. For example, the story on cream teas in Devonshire inspired me to make scones, hunt down clotted cream in the local grocery, and make strawberry freezer jam. Along with tea sandwiches, that was a truly memorable tea with my girlfriends. However -- I didn't use one recipe from the issue!
However, the pork adobo recipe by restauranteur (Cendrillon, Soho) and cookbook author Amy Besa (no. 87) is so good, and so authentic to what I grew up with, I am going to photocopy it and distribute it to my younger cousins so that they can master at least one Filipino dish. Her recipe made me realize everything I had been doing wrong in my pork adobo preparation (not adding extra water, not giving it enough time to braise to proper tenderness, etc.)
<I just LOVED the story on Hmong farmers in Fresno in the current issue. I'm going to use it in my food histories/cultures class. Again, I'll probably never cook their chicken wings in bittermelon, or yam leaves stir fried with onion, but I'm so inspired by the photographs and the people behind the dishes.>
I share my sub with a friend so I don't have the issues to refer to but I can point out some long term favorites:
1) Butter Tarts. I make them every year for a friend's take to work treat. She says they are just like her grandmothers. The recipe is so big that there always a few left over for me :)
2) a rasberry blueberry coffecake from one of the first few years. Just delicious--perfect propotions of cake, berries and sugar.
3) smoked trout hash--my go-to recipe for brunch.
4) cauliflower pasta by the late Vincent Schiavelli. Another big yield recipe with big taste.
On my list of things to do: all the recipes from the article on baking in Australia-esp. the beestings and lamingtons.
I used to subscribe to Saveur, but no longer. I do make it a point though to pick up the yearly top 100 issue. A few years back in the top 100 issue, one of the 100 was a small trattoria in Rome, Dar Filetto (Santa Barbara?), just around the corner from the Campo di Fiore. This place rocks with their batter fried baccala, which is one of my favorite things in the world. Well I happened to be reading this issue while on a plane travelling to Rome on vacation with my wife. Our apartment in Rome was just off the Piazza Navona, so needless to say, we had to seek this place out. We found it, went in and enjoyed their fabulous baccala and puntarelle salad, out of this world! I had the Savuer magazine with me, because it had a picture of the two women who do all of the cooking. So when we were done eating, I snuck back to the kitchen to tell them how good the baccala was and to show them the magazine article. They got quite a chuckle out of it, and so did I. Gotta love the place, brown craft paper for the table cloth, and water tumblers for wine glasses, the best!
Third, fourth, or wherever we are on the Waafu curry - that is a fantastic dish, truly soul-satisfying.
Two other recipes come immediately to mind:
Chicken with Cream and Cheese Sauce (from an issue on cheese a while ago?)
Belgian Waffles (from an article on world's fair food) - standard Father's Day fare at our house.
The Red Velvet Cake recipe from Cake Man Raven is one of my favorites. I think it's from May, possibly April 2006.
I think I can count on one hand the number of recipes I've tried from my 8+ years of subcribing to Saveur. So, a few weeks ago I decided to cook my way through an entire issue (May 2004, #75) cover to cover. So far I'm about half way there and I've hit some snags.
Snag #1- Cost. Our food budget tripled in the first week of cooking from the magazine. One recipe alone (Fois Gras Souvarov) would have run me the equvalent of half a month's rent.
Snag #2- Stewed Fried Vegetables with Lamb Offal. This recipe caused a huge contraversy in my house over the use of a lamb's brain which nearly ended in my husband going on a hunger strike. I almost canned the entire project in protest of his protest.
Snag #3- I lost interest
I can however highly reccomend Halibut Cheeks with Baby Leeks and Fine-Herbes Gnocchi, pg. 89, from this issue. I used halibut filets instead of cheeks, as the recipe suggests. The dish is far easier and less time consuming than I thought, and it's delicious.
Have been subscribing to Saveur for many years but can count on one hand the number of recipes I've made from it. I happen to make one this weekend from the latest issue. It was filet mignon w mushroom sauce and it was DELICIOUS! Served it w mashed potatoes, roasted green beans, ceasar salad and garlic bread. Bread puddin' for dessert.
Here ya go:
Pasta Verde – makes 4 6” X 22” sheets
2 bunches spinach, washed and trimmed
2 c unbleached all-purpose flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1. Boil ¼ c water in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add spinach and cook until completely wilted (about 3 minutes). Drain and cool. Squeeze out excess water and finely chop spinach.
2. Sift flour into a mound on a clean surface. Make a well in the center and add spinach to the well. Then add eggs and lightly beat together with a fork. Continue beating, gradually incorporating flour from the inside edge of the well into spinach mixture. When dough becomes stiff, knead flour into spinach mixture until dough is no longer sticky. Form dough into a ball and cover with a damp kitchen towel. Clean work surface, dust with more flour. Knead dough until smooth (roughly 5 minutes). Cut dough into 4 pieces and cover with a damp kitchen towel.
3. Take one piece of dough and set pasta machine rollers on widest setting. Feed pasta through rollers 3-4 times, folding pasta (they don’t specify how much – I do it in thirds) after each feed. The continue feeding pasta through machine while decreasing setting by one notch. The final roll should be through the SECOND to last notch (otherwise dough will be too thin). Cover finished pasta with damp kitchen towels (I separate layers with parchment paper)
Ragu alla Bolongese. – makes 5 cups
¼ c extra-virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, peeled and minced
1 rib celery, trimmed and minced
½ medium carrot, peeled, trimmed, and minced
2-3 slices prosciutto di Parma (about 1 oz.), finely chopped
2 chicken livers, finely chopped
1 ½ lbs. ground chuck (I used 1/3 veal, 1/3 pork. 1/3 beef)
½ c dry white wine
1 c hot milk
1 c beef, veal, or chicken broth
1 28 oz. can Italian plum tomato puree
1. Heat oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon until soft and translucent but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add celery and carrots and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes more. Add prosciutto and chicken livers and cook, stirring, until livers are just cooked and still a little pink, about 1 minute. Add ground meat, season with salt and pepper, and cook, breaking up meat with the back of the spoon, until just cooked and still a little pink, about 5 minutes more.
2. Add wine to pot and cook, stirring, until it has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, add hot milk, and cook, stirring occasionally, until milk has evaporated, about 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat broth and tomato puree together in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until hot, then add to meat mixture in pot. Reduce heat to low and gently simmer, stirring occasionally, for 2 ½ hours. Season to taste.
Besciamella (Bechamel Sauce) – makes 2 cups
3 Tbsp butter
4 Tbsp sifted flour
2 c milk, heated
Melt butter in a heavy medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add flour, whisk for ½ minutes (do not brown). Gradually add hot milk, whisking constantly. Season to taste, stir constantly with wooden spoon until sauce is the consistency of thick cream about 15 minutes (note – in the picture, the sauce is considerably thicker than thick cream – consistency of sour cream is probably more accurate).
Lasagbe Verdi Al Forno
2 tbsp butter
4 6” X 22” sheets spinach pasta
5 cups Bolognese sauce
1 c freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
2 c béchamel sauce
1. Preheat overn to 450, set oven rack in top third of oven. Grease a 9”X12” baking dish with butter. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add 2 generous pinches of salt. Cook 1 sheet of pasta at a time until it floats to the surface, about 10 seconds. Remove with slotted spoons, shock in a large bowl of salted ice water. Remove from ice water when cool. Lay sheets out (careful not to let them touch), on clean, damp kitchen towels, cover with more damp towels.
2. Line bottom of prepared baking dish with a layer of pasta, trimming sheets with a knife so they fit in 1 even layer (patch if necessary). Spread evenly with about 1 cup meat sauce, then sprinkle lightly with parmigiano. Add another layer of pasta, evenly spread 1 cup béchamel on pasta, then sprinkle lightly with parmigiano. Repeat layers (you will have 3 layers of meat sauce and 2 of béchamel), ending with meat sauce and parmigiano.
3. Bake lasagna for 10 minutes. Increase oven temp to 500 and cook until lasagna is bubbling around the edges and browned on top, 5-7 minutes more. Allow lasagna to rest for 8-10 minutes before serving.
I have noticed that I don't cook a lot of recipes from Saveur, but I decided that recipes aren't why I read it. You can get recipes anywhere, but Saveur gives me interesting articles about exotic and not-so-exotic places around the world, and helps me to understand and relate to their food.
One recipe I have really enjoyed is from an April 2006 article on Trattorias in Florence for Arista di Maile (p 48)--you make a hole in a bone-in pork loin into which you stuff a mixture of rosemary, sage, garlic, salt and pepper. As you roast it the flavor from the seasonings infuses the meat--I've gotten rave reviews every time I serve this.
A simple Gratin Dauphinois that bakes at 275 for 2.5 hours. No precooking the potatoes - perfect.
I don't know what issue it was. It was from an article about milk and I actually cut it out because of a Laboratorio del Gelato recipe for Milk Gelato on the other side of the page. Still haven't made the gelato.
2 pounds russets, peeled and sliced thin
1.25 cups whole milk
1.25 cups cream
salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 275. Arrange potatoes in 8 cup gratin dish. Mix milk and cream and pour over (I add S & P and nutmeg at this point too - Saveur says to season after it bakes 1 hr). Bake 2 to 2.5 hours.
All of the recipes in Coleman Andrews's article on cast iron skillets, #42, p. 76. Fagioli Lessi (basic white beans, Tuscan style), #46, p. 98, except I cook then very slowly in the oven. And my very favorite, which I can't find at the moment, the Indiana persimmon pudding, which even made with the Japanese things is the best damn dessert in the world. There are others that I've used and loved, and every so often I'll get lost in a pile of back issues and find something wonderful I'd forgotten, but these are the ones I go back to over and over.
And "people who live in France don't BBQ?" made me laugh - my father-in-law used to import Le Creuset BBQ grills, the instruction sheet for which was an abomination. I told him I'd rewrite and illustrate one for him; he asked me what I'd charge for that, and I said, "This grill!" Turns out he got the better end of the bargain - it was a very good instruction sheet and a nearly useless grill. I don't think it sold very well either.
re: Will Owen
Second the fagioli recipe. There are several, actually - one for the basic bean preparation, and then a couple that use those beans as components in grander things. Both the tuna salad and the stew with sausage are fantastic, in that simple whole-is-more-than-sum-of-parts way.
re: Will Owen
I've enjoyed Saveur because it usually tells me how and why the food is what it is. I'm an Alton Brown fan for that reason.
Two favorite recipes from Saveur are the Key Lime Pie (Simple and authentic) from #48, Jan/Feb 2001. It's made with egg yolks, condensed milk & key limes. No green food coloring or jello. I've also enjoyed the the Tex-Mex Cheese Enchiladas from #58, April 2002. Again simple, authentic ingredients.
I ended up copying them into the word processor to share and so I don't soil the magazine.
Lots of other recipes are just waiting in my collection for the right time.
If you could, please post the cheese enchilada recipe! I went to my recipe file to pull that out a couple of months ago and it was gone, gone, gone. I searched for it online, but to no avail. I've been making it for years, since it first appeared in 2002. The best enchiladas, ever.
Serves 4 to 6
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 4 large ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 1 ¾ cups corn oil
• 1 large yellow onion, peeled and chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
• 2 tbsp flour
• 4 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 ½ tsp dried oregano
• salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 corn tortillas
• ¾ lb. monterey jack cheese, grated.
1. Put stock and chiles into a medium pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until chiles are soft, about 10 minutes. Remove pot from heat and set aside.
2. Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add two-thirds of the onion and cook, stirring often, until they begin to soften; 3-5 minutes. Transfer to a blender, add chiles, 1 cup of the cooking liquid, and garlic, puree to a smooth paste and set aside.
3. Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 3-5 minutes. Add chile paste, cumin, oregano, and the remaining cooking liquid and season to taste with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring often, until sauce thickens, about 30 minutes, Keep warm over lowest heat
4. Preheat oven to 400º. Heat the remaining 1 ½ cups oil in a deep medium skillet over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Quickly fry tortillas 1 at a time, turning once, for about 2 seconds per side, then dip them into chile sauce to coat well. Transfer tortillas to a large plate as done, scatter bottom third of each with about ¼ cup of the cheese, then roll to completely encase cheese, Arrange rolled tortillas, seam side down, in a large baking dish, into a single layer, Spoon the remaining chile sauce over tortillas and sprinkle with the remaining cheese and onions. Bake until cheese melts, about 10 minutes.
I have ten years of them strewn about my house and it drives me crazy to find old recipes. There online recipe archives are terrible! But if I can find it I will post the recipe for Burmese Fish and Tomato Curry. Really good. I also second the Wafuu Curry recipe. Another favorite is Nai Nai's Breakfast Noodles. A morning favorite in my house.
I used to photocopy the index page of every issue and put them in a binder for reference - I stopped doing a few years ago (laziness) and have now resorted to grabbing a stack of 4 or 5 issues, and scanning the key words on the spines, hoping one of them triggers a memory. It's getting pretty inefficient, though... I thinking about restarting the photocopied index thing again.
I found your fish curry recipe though : Ngar Si Byan (Fish and Tomato Curry), issue #66 (April/May 2003). Do you remember which story Nai Nai's Breakfast Noodles was with?
Wow! Found it on the fourth try!
Issue No. 85, June/July 2005
The recipe is concommitant with a book review and is on page 24.
Note, I usually triple or quadruple the sauce and keep it in a jar in the fridge. I also use just about any kind of noodle, not just the won ton skins.
I also add chopped green onions for a little color.
> I'm willing to bet that a lot of other people have years of Saveur magazines but only make
> a handful of recipes out of them. A lot of their recipes are labor intensive and/or require
> esoteric ingredients, so it does take extra motivation to test them out.
Indeed! That's the very reason why I decided to unsubscribe recently. I do enjoy the travel stories, but the best of the lot are compiled in the Best Food Writing anthology every year, so I figure I'll get my fix there.
That said, there is a single recipe I've made several times - it's the Japanese chicken & potato curry (Wafuu Curry) recipe from issue #99 (Feb. 2007), page 47.
Still time-consuming (about an hour and a bit) but only one exotic ingredient (the Japanese curry powder) which my local Korean-Japanese grocery store carries. I've enjoyed this dish in restaurants over the years and am thrilled that I can now make it at home. I've also adapted it for other veggies (broccoli & zucchini) and it comes out well too.
What! You don't have a charcoal grill and you call yourself an AMERICAN? You should move to France!
One of my favorite Saveur recipes was one I can't find anymore. It was before the main spread in the mag. It was an, I think, an Egyptian (or Lebanese) lentil soup with some kind of bitter green. I think it was dandilion greens but it might have been escarole. The spices were North Africanish. It was quite simple and absolutely delicious. It appeared at least 5 years ago.
Btw, my son got me a Saveur mag in French. It was quite interesting and had lots of good recipes and articles on what we'd call unusual places: Macedonia, for one.
I've never been able to find it again. I think he bought it in Seattle, but it might have been Berkeley.
I think I found it - there's a recipe for "Dandelion-Lentil Soup" in issue 34 (April1999) pg 34. It involves cooking a cup of lentils in 9 cups of water until tender, then sauteeing onion, garlic, red chile, and grated ginger together for 10 minutes. The mixture is added to the lentils, along with dandelion greens, lemon juice, cumin, salt and pepper and cooked until the greens are tender.