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May 18, 2007 10:06 AM

Quick take on Brasserie Beck

Two of us visited BB yesterday on short-notice lunch.
First impression: beautiful surroundings. The various areas compartmentalized by wood or glass to diminish sense of eating in a barn and increase privacy. Deuce-table cubbies a bit crowded nonetheless. Delft tile palette throughout. Striking open kitchen. Good hostesses.
Service: attentive but inobtrusive.
Food/drink: we skipped appetizers despite the fact that they were very tempting and ordered the mussels in white wine, etc. and the trout in lemon/caper sauce, side of frites. A glass of a white Burgundy whose name eludes me and a draft pilsener. Beverages excellent, not cheap. Mussel broth well-prepared, mussels themselves quite large, texturally a bit mealy but tasty. Trout was excellent.
Frites were quite crisp. Almost overdone. And much better warm. Cooling brought out the oil. By contrast, the frites at Montsouris last weekend, for example, were, in my opinion, considerably better. Browned and crisp outside but tender inside with no residual spurting-oil-filling effect upon cooling.
Chef was in the house so there's no blaming inattentive kitchen. A Belgian bistro that produces sub-perfect fries has a problem. Which is a shame because every other aspect of it was quite enjoyable.
I'll give them another chance but will keep Montsouris on speed-dial.

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  1. Had an over-the-top delicious casserole of potato gratin with two slabs of pork belly on top. Listed as a side dish, this was a considerable meal. For $11.

    The place was absolutley packed last night. How does anyone know about it? It almost looks closed form the K st. side. Nosiy. But for an opportunity to eat food this good, I'll be back.

    1 Reply
    1. re: Steve

      Had third lunch at Brasserie Beck. Great again. Of course, I would go just for the fantastic bread. Had tomato/goat cheese napolean -- loved it. The skate was outstanding -- great sauce. Pear tartin yummy. Friend had spinach salad which was substantial. Table had side order of frites which are an obscene amount, and they were warm, not hot, but I'm still not a great fan. Staff very friendly, gave some good suggestions. The Chef (Weidenmeier, or however you spell his name) was on the premises.