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May 17, 2007 03:01 AM

Review: Settebello Las Vegas

So from what I heard this place was a "can't miss". I went in this evening around 5:30.

I was one of 3 tables there. The waitress told me to sit wherever I wanted so I chose a seat near a window and she brought the menu over to me. I pretty much knew what I wanted but I looked it over anyway. I saw the "misto" and decided that I would try that before the main reason that I stopped in. I ordered that and a margherita to cover all the basis - along with a Moretti Pilsner. The antipasti arrived as a HUGE plate. Well enough for 3-4 to share as an appetizer. The plate arrived with 4 types of meat ( mortadella, prosciutto crudo, prosciutto cotto, and finnochiona ) along with artichoke hearts, roasted peppers, olives, roasted mushrooms, parmigiano, and enough flatbread to feed Green Valley. It was all pretty good - the mortadella and prosciutto crudo were the stars along with the excellently prepared flatbread.

The pizze came afterward and did not disappoint. HOWEVER ... I had heard this place talked up so much from friends and these boards that I was expecting the second coming. I have to say that although it was really good - it wasn't great. I was expecting the crust to be even thinner and crispier than it was. Don't get me wrong - the crushed tomatoes they use were fantastic as well as the mozz, but I was expecting more along the lines of flatbread. Despite this thought I finished the pie and really enjoyed it. I headed over to Valley Cheese & Wine afterwards as a topper to the experience. They have a lot of great products in there and I probably would have spent a fortune if I weren't moving out of state in the next couple weeks ( the products would have to be tossed before I could use them up ).

At any rate, I had a good time although it didn't quite live up to ALL the expectations I had but I would definitely go back when I'm in the area. I don't know if I would make the trip just for that ( although that tomato concasse was REALLY tasty ), but I'm sure I will patronize it again.

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  1. Haven't done the Settebello in Vegas, but the guy's buddy has the location here in Salt Lake. I too wish the crust were a little crispier throughout, but, I still wind up eating every bite when I am there. The quality of the ingredients is impeccable, and as you noticed with the misto, the portions are generous.

    2 Replies
    1. re: GroovinGourmet

      Remember that Settebello is a Neapolitan Pizzeria. This means that it it true to the tradition and the center is not crisp. It sould be a little wet and soft in the center and eaten with a knife and fork. No picking up these pizzas.....

      1. re: passionfoodie

        Awe, come on, some picking up should be allowed...

        Actually one of the things that has made my Settebello visits so pleasant is that they have hit the Neapotlitan "code" almsot dead-on, largely through the owner having spent extensive time in Naples studying (where he met the the Salt Lake City pizza maker, who they brought over over from Italy). As such, their textures are just right for my "Tear and Roll" technique, which I have assiduously developed over years of international travel. One must be dedicated, after all.

        My real challenge at Settebello is dealing with my own blasphemy - as much of a purist as I am for a classical Margherita, I am also finding their own "Settebello" in-house creation to be a guilty pleasure - pancetta, fennel sausage, roasted mushrooms and roasted pine nuts. Because of the quality of the ingredients it brings a wonderful array of aromas, tastes and textures, but it does create an extreme challenge for a hands-only approach. I must admit that I have had to resort to occasional use of knife and fork on that particular pizza.

        The long-term problem that they face in Las Vegas is the location. One must make an effort to get there, and there is not much chance of picking up a casual lunch crowd (the opposite of what has happened in Salt Lake City, where the location generates a lot of foot traffic). We can only hope for the best, because the spirit behind the place is what we desperately need more of Off-Strip in Las Vegas.