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May 13, 2007 07:08 AM

3rd Arr. - best food & wine shops, etc...

I will be in Paris from June 2 to June 10. We will be staying in an apartment in the Marais (3rd) right near the old Jewish quarter. I would be grateful for recommendations for: best patisseries, best boulangeries, best wine shops, and best cheese shops in the area.

As for restaurants, here is the list I have compiled so far. Any thoughts? Am I missing anything essential? We are looking for typical Parisian bistros, not too expensive, but excellent food that is different from what we would find here in NYC. Also, I'd love a recommendation for one good brasserie and a place to dine in the 3rd Arr. for our first night in Paris (a Sunday). Thanks in advance!

Aux Lyonnais
Le Pre Verre
Les Fables de la Fontaine
Chez Denise
Au Fil de Saisons
Les Papilles
Le Comptoir du Relais

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  1. Best local patisserie: Le Pain de Sucre, 14 rue Rambuteau. The patissier used to work for Pierre Gagnaire.

    1 Reply
    1. re: Theobroma

      i agree on le pain de sucre! i had no idea the patissier used to work for pierre gagnaire, but i am not surprised. i went a couple of times last week, mainly just for a quick snack, so didn't get to sample any of the big items. everything looked beautiful though.

      however, i can vouch for the marshmallow (guimauve), which they have in big jars in the window, in "unusual" flavors like tomato and strawberry, or olive oil, along w/ more traditional flavors. also some really good macarons!

      couple of pics we took below ...

    2. Sunday night in the third I would reserve at L'Ambassade de l'Avergne, for hearty and delicious south western food (south west of France, that is). Share some aligot and you will be in chowhound heaven.

      1. As mentioned before, Le Pain de Sucre has great pastries as well as breads. That part of r. Rambuteau is a local shopping street with great food shops. Stroher, 51 r. de Montorgueil on the 2nd, is an excellent old-style patisserie with beautiful displays. This area is another good shopping street. For excellent morning pastries, especially the almond croissants, Au Levain de Marais on 32 r de Turenne; M. Malineau is an terrific boulangerie with shops at 18 r Vielle du Temple and 28 r. St. Paul; also Manon's Bakery at 87 r. St. Antoine. There are nice cheese and wine shops on the same street. Also check out the Bastille market on Blvd Richard Lenoir street market on Sunday mornings.
        My last meal couple years ago at L'Ambassade D'Auvergne was not very good. Except for the prune and Armagnac ice cream, much of the food tasted old and 'reheated'.

        1. Recommend Chez Janou in the 3rd for your arrival Sunday night brasserie dinner . Chez Janou is near Place des Vosges in the 3rd. It is a busy brasserie frequented by locals and some tourists. Food is good and reasonable with the ambience very Parisian. Advise reservations

          4 Replies
          1. re: An American Living in London

            We will be in the Marais as well in September. Although we have not eaten there as yet(the restaurant) see what you think of Benoit. Perhaps folks on this board can reply.
            Many places close on Sunday although the Marais generally is not "closed". While there do try a falafel at the Ace of Falafel or eat lunch at Chez Marianne.(Both very very casual)

            1. re: roxie

              I really like Benoit and it became quite a regular haunt for a late Sunday lunch (last orders at 2:00pm) after going to the Bastille market - the waiters generally found it funny when we handed them a large bag of vegtables with bunches of leeks poking out to be put in the cloakroom.

              It is quite smart with many Parisians dressed up for family celebration - parents, grandparent and children. The food is good after all it is part of the Alain Ducasse Group, and I believe the concept to to keep alive classic bistro cooking and dishes. It is quite well priced, however it is not inexpensive, remember it has a Michelin star. My favorite dish is "langue de veau lucullus" - which is foie gras layered between slices of tongue on a bed of lentils. Every dish my wife and I have tried has been good.

              1. re: roxie

                Benoit serve some excellent bistrot food. It also has very professional waiters plus the classic bistro decor. Being open on Sundays is a big plus. Is it worth the high price depends on the individual. I go there if I am entertaining some important people. Otherwise, I find just as satisfying food for about half the price at places like Chez George, Chez Rene, Bistro Clovis, Chez Denise or Au Moulin a Vent.

                1. re: PBSF

                  I like Benoit, too. PB, I was told that Chez Rene had closed, or at best, had been sold. Does anyone know if they're still open, and still as good as before?

            2. I was treated very rudely recently at l'ambassade d'auvernat--wouldn't recommend it. Plus, it's over by les halles, and there are so many wonderful restaurants in the marais itself.
              Here are some more recs:
              Chez nenesse
              Chez omar
              ma bourgogne (place des vosges)
              le loir dans le theiere (for lunch or brunch--fantastic!)
              le dos de baleine
              il vittelloni
              al filo della stagioni
              le renconfort
              les chineurs
              and don't forget the marche aux enfants rouges, the outdoor traiteurs (home-cooking japanese, moroccan, italian, etc, and l'estaminet--which is all organic, menu changes daily)
              and CERTAINLY do not forget the aforementioned saturday market on blvd richard lenoir. you can get all of your wine and other food-related items there... simply the best, and right around the corner.

              as for sunday night dinner, hmmm... I would head over to Bofinger, make sure to treat yourself to the profiteroles with chocolat chaud!

              3 Replies
              1. re: cerisenoire

                I stopped at Ma Bourgogne today to get out of the rain and it just seems WAY too touristy. I do think they have an excellent tarte tatin, though. Agree with everyone about Le Pain de Sucre. We're staying around the corner and it's now become my morning stop for bread and croissant. We've tried most of the other bakeries on this stretch of rue Rambuteau and none can compare. We had a great Sunday dinner at Ambassade d'Auvergne a week ago. Had a very memorable meal several years ago at Chez Janou. Ran across it accidentally when walking around. This was before it got written up in all the guides. Full of smoking Frenchman. No one spoke English there at the time. I ordered the chocolate mousse for dessert. They bring a huge mixing bowl and ladle to the table. I wasn't sure what to do. The waiter just laughed and put some in my dish, but left the big bowl there. I now know you eat as much as you want but it made for quite an interesting conversation with my S.O. as we walked back to the apartment. We have a reservation tomorrow night so we'll see if it still holds up.

                1. re: socaldesign

                  Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Can you tell me the cross street for the Blvd. Richard Lenoir market? Also, does anyone know if Chez Denise in the 1st Arr. is open on Mondays? Thanks again.

                  1. re: agorenko

                    It starts at Bastille and heads along the Boulevard for three or four blocks. So really easy to find.