A Walk along the Seine
- Lettuce Eat May 12, 2007 04:41 PM
I'll be staying in the Opera district next week and plan to spend a good deal of time walking, from the Arc de Triomphe to, say, Place des Vosges. Now, here's the challenge. I have noted that some of you define an "inexpensive" meal as "no more than EUR 70 per person." Bless your hearts, but I don't want to hear from you. I want to hear from those of you who have discovered delightful places to eat that cost EUR 10 or less. I don't care about ambience or service, nor do I care how many Michelin stars have been awarded. Tell me I can walk into a local farmers' market, buy some bread and meat, a little cheese, a piece of fresh fruit perhaps, take it to Parc Monceau for a picnic, and I will be thrilled. In short, where can I get really tasty, really cheap, distinctly French food in this area? It absolutely must be within walking distance of the Opera district.
Absolutely, you'll enjoy great food at the Bastille Market. Everything you can think of:
Bd Richard Lenoir between rue Amelot and rue Saint-Sabin.
Thursday & Sunday, 7 a.m. to 2.30 p.m.
Metro : Bastille
Close by, we had the best Falaffel in a really neat Jewish Neighborhood, fun shops: (this place is famous if you goodle them) loads of crowds waiting for a falaffel. L’As du Falaffel - 34 rue des Rosiers (metro stop - St. Paul)
We stayed just north of this area and found this fabulous market with an excellent coucous booth and this wonderful sandwich guy that makes unbelievable sandwiches for only 4e (he's just totally disorganized and you have to bare with him but his sandwiches are phenominal with local ingredients). This is in the 3rd just north of Marais. It's a market close to the corner of rue de bretegne and rue charlot. Beautiful park close by to eat - Square Lycee du Duperre Temple (metro - Arts et Metiers)
We dined too but found fabulous places for 17e each, 25e, 32e, etc. My son just moved here in March so he has had time to scope it out and weed out the tourist traps where you spend a fortune without value.
Good advice from "lexpatti".
At €10 or less you are in the takeaway zone rather than restaurants. Even a set lunch at a neighbourhood restaurant is going to be in the €15 to 20 range, the lowest cost option would be a salad - Comptoir De L'Arc near the Etoile (sorry can't remember the street) does very good ones. The bakery chain "Paul" does good simple lunches between €10 and 20 (or you can take out quiche etc). However, I suspect you may struggle to get dinner under €10 - although you could picnic on the "Pont Des Arts" the footbridge over the Seine at the eastern end of the Louvre (lots of locals do this).
There is a small market on Avenue des Ternes, which is a short walk from the Etolie and near Parc Monceau; another small market is Marche St Honore convenient for Rue St Honore. And then for the Tour Eiffel and Invalides there is Rue Cler, which has good food shops.
Maybe a good idea is to plan your walks by market - the markets are generally only open on specific days so check out this web site and work out where they are and when they are open - http://www.v1.paris.fr/en/Living/mark...
I agree with Phil D's post. Other than takeaway, crepes or ethnic places, it is nearly impossible to eat well or even decently for 10 EUR in a restaurant. I've stayed in Marais, the 5th, the 6th, 7th and 11th and any decent place will charge about 12EUR for a main course. Paris is not an inexpensive city for food.
Agree with the other posters...a meal where a server brings your meal while you sit at a table for 10 EUR is out. But no matter. You can picnic very well from the outdoor markets on a park bench. In this area, you might want to pay a visit to the patisserie Stohrer, at 51 rue Montorgueil 2e and get a little something sweet for the end. The shop has lovely decorations from the mid 19th century. You might also check out Rose Bakery at 46 rue des Martyrs 9e, which has a number of nice take out options both sweet and savory.
While I am a big fan of picking up wonderful offerings at markets and merchants in Paris, there are small restaurants that serve meals for under 10 EUR. For example, there is a little place on the rue St. Antoine, across the street from and near the St. Paul metro stop (in the Marais) that serves a variety of mussel dishes. Its not much to look at -- at first I thought it was a bar -- but 7-8 EUR gets you a generous helping of mussels and bread. I suspect that there are plenty of similar places, and a caraf of wine may cause you to go slightly beyond your budget, but it can be done.